IansPlatinum
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2018
- Location
- Texas
It's unnecessary and overkill, but I'm doing it.
Planning a few trips to colorado and big bend in the near future, and need the wagon to be able to handle some abuse, so in my free time, I thunk & drew these up.
I got the idea from viewing some off the shelf currie products for jeeps:
Those don't fit, however, so I have to adapt them to the metric specs volvo uses.
Torque rods right now are going to be made with:
2x 3/4" Johnny Joint CE-9112SP-12 LINK[2x $58=$116]
2x Weld on Johnny Joint CE-9112P-12 LINK[2x $49= $98]
630mm (25 in) of 4340 1.25" OD pipe, 0.12" wall thickness [$35]
2X tube-end weld nut, 3/4-16, 94640a365 LINK [2x $8 = $16]
2X 3/4-16 jam nut LINK [~$2?, probably snag from ACE]
Welding- awaiting a quote from a friend
So now begins the phase of refinement. I've gone thru a couple revisions of the idea, and this is the latest. I initially wanted to go poly on the frame-side bushing, but I'd need to either re-use the existing torque rod shell, or find 50mm ID pipe to use, or cut my own poly. For about $40 more than super pro poly bushings, the weld on johnny joints will work great, and give the bar two additional degrees of freedom.
Plus, it means there's no down time on my wagon, since I can fully fabricate these torque rods as drop in replacements.
The big WHY?
I know several vendors sell these for cheaper than it's going to cost me to fabricate. Then why do it? Short answer is, I know what I want, and I'm going to go for it, and have fun doing it. Not everything is about $$$. I want full articulation of the torque rods, with reasonable NVH and damping. I also want greasable joints. Obviously, trailing arms and panhard bar will need attention to maximize the benefits of these torque rods. That's in the future. Why not LH/RH threaded on both ends? I like the idea that if a nut loosens from vibration, the torque rod cannot physically unthread itself.
Adjustment range:
Think this is enough adjustment for a stock ride height wagon, which will receive a ~2" lift in the future?
Also, the ID of the bolt hole on the joint is 1/2", so somewhere around 12.7mm. Do you think that's too loose to keep using the existing 12mm hardware? I might drills axle side out and use 1/2", but the body side has a weld nut, so I have to stay 12mm. What do you think?
Open to feedback and nitpicking. I want the community's opinion before I go off and make these.
Planning a few trips to colorado and big bend in the near future, and need the wagon to be able to handle some abuse, so in my free time, I thunk & drew these up.
I got the idea from viewing some off the shelf currie products for jeeps:
Those don't fit, however, so I have to adapt them to the metric specs volvo uses.
Torque rods right now are going to be made with:
2x 3/4" Johnny Joint CE-9112SP-12 LINK[2x $58=$116]
2x Weld on Johnny Joint CE-9112P-12 LINK[2x $49= $98]
630mm (25 in) of 4340 1.25" OD pipe, 0.12" wall thickness [$35]
2X tube-end weld nut, 3/4-16, 94640a365 LINK [2x $8 = $16]
2X 3/4-16 jam nut LINK [~$2?, probably snag from ACE]
Welding- awaiting a quote from a friend
So now begins the phase of refinement. I've gone thru a couple revisions of the idea, and this is the latest. I initially wanted to go poly on the frame-side bushing, but I'd need to either re-use the existing torque rod shell, or find 50mm ID pipe to use, or cut my own poly. For about $40 more than super pro poly bushings, the weld on johnny joints will work great, and give the bar two additional degrees of freedom.
Plus, it means there's no down time on my wagon, since I can fully fabricate these torque rods as drop in replacements.
The big WHY?
I know several vendors sell these for cheaper than it's going to cost me to fabricate. Then why do it? Short answer is, I know what I want, and I'm going to go for it, and have fun doing it. Not everything is about $$$. I want full articulation of the torque rods, with reasonable NVH and damping. I also want greasable joints. Obviously, trailing arms and panhard bar will need attention to maximize the benefits of these torque rods. That's in the future. Why not LH/RH threaded on both ends? I like the idea that if a nut loosens from vibration, the torque rod cannot physically unthread itself.
Adjustment range:
Think this is enough adjustment for a stock ride height wagon, which will receive a ~2" lift in the future?
Also, the ID of the bolt hole on the joint is 1/2", so somewhere around 12.7mm. Do you think that's too loose to keep using the existing 12mm hardware? I might drills axle side out and use 1/2", but the body side has a weld nut, so I have to stay 12mm. What do you think?
Open to feedback and nitpicking. I want the community's opinion before I go off and make these.
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