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Sticking it to the man: 1984 245 Cali Legal B23+T/B230FT Project

F

Fawnzee

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2017
Location
Southern California
Well, forgot to remember to copy the post after writing it for a long time, so it disappeared into the void. I'll update this with all of the stuff I had written before, when I'm feeling up to it again :(

Anywho, short post/introduction for now.

My whole existence on TB was wiped with the forum reboot, so I figured I'd introduced myself/my build properly

I'm Scot, or Fawnzee. Been working on cars since I was 15, including a mitsubishi 3000gt vr4, Saab 9-3 Aero, 79 245 wagon, a dodge colt, my 2015 Avalon XLE (I love it so much), various family cars, and trucks. Nothing professional, besides 7-10 months at americas tire, but all as a hobby.

<s>Picked up an 84 245 with the plans to do a B23+T/B230FT. </s>
Here are some photos:
https://imgur.com/a/jf9Vqgs (Replaced with a link because the embed was literally enormous :lol:)

Done up the suspension with BNE/IPD, waiting for Bilsteins, got the engine to stage 0, and got it smogged thanks to all the help on my now non-existent "1984 245 Failed CA Smog" post.

<s>My goal for this project log is to detail my process with the BAR ref turbo swap, using a 91 940 turbo that I picked up for $1400.

Like I said, I'll update/edit this post, with all of my plans, current parts, current work done, and parts that I'm looking for, when I've got the energy to do it again.</s>

Edit: Ended up getting a 75 245 to avoid the uncertainties with doing a CA legal +t build
 
Last edited:
- Is the '84 245 a "California" model (versus the other 49 states)? If so, you need a California 740T/940T as the donor.

- I don't think you can do the B23+T since it isn't an original engine configuration.

- If the 940 has EGR, you'll need to keep it, and probably need show that it's working.

- I don't know how fussy the referees are, but you may need the 940 airbox and 940 head mount distributor (a potential no go).

- You'll need a VSS speed sensor signal from the rear differential (or some sort of cable driven speedometer converter) to use LH2.4

- I think you'll need a labeled MIL / CEL light, but that might just be for OBD-II 1996+ conversions.

- The CAT is supposed to be within 6" of the donor vehicle location, and the O2 sensor within 1" of donor location (relative to CAT).

- It sounds like you can keep the original evap setup (i.e. hoses and charcoal canister). I think the later 940s (sometime after '91) added a solenoid purge valve, which would need to be retained.
 
bobxyz said:
- Is the '84 245 a "California" model (versus the other 49 states)? If so, you need a California 740T/940T as the donor.

- I don't think you can do the B23+T since it isn't an original engine configuration.

- If the 940 has EGR, you'll need to keep it, and probably need show that it's working.

- I don't know how fussy the referees are, but you may need the 940 airbox and 940 head mount distributor (a potential no go).

- You'll need a VSS speed sensor signal from the rear differential (or some sort of cable driven speedometer converter) to use LH2.4

- I think you'll need a labeled MIL / CEL light, but that might just be for OBD-II 1996+ conversions.

- The CAT is supposed to be within 6" of the donor vehicle location, and the O2 sensor within 1" of donor location (relative to CAT).

- It sounds like you can keep the original evap setup (i.e. hoses and charcoal canister). I think the later 940s (sometime after '91) added a solenoid purge valve, which would need to be retained.
Click to expand...

Both models (the 245, and the 91 940 turbo I picked up to gut) are Cali models, so it should be okay.

Technically, B23+t won't fly, but I'm hoping that it can pass without having to do the whole engine. If it doesn't, then I'll do it the right way.

All original 940 intake/exhaust components are going on, with the wiper bottle probably sent to the rear cheek.

Vss is coming from the G80 diff cover (along with the G80) from the turbo once I do the full LH2.4 conversion (pre or post ref). Also picked up an STS LH2.4 flywheel so we can keep the m46.
 
So, I've gone through a whole laundry list of things on the car, including some interior, exterior, parts collecting, and maintenance work.

Scored all 3 of the rear trunk panels (spare tire, passenger side cheek, and tailgate), an oem CAI, some grille clips, a minty hood insulation, some interior dome lights, etc... Gonna have to either trade the blue pieces for beige, or go at them with some SEM.

Speaking of SEM, did up my carpet with Palomino, and I'm working my way through the interior bits. All of the black pieces are done with Landau Black, and Camel is cleaning up the beige really nicely. Waiting for the Corbeau Sport Seats to replace the beat up leather seats.

I'm excited to swap out all 4 corners of struts/shocks with new bilstein b6s, but I need to move it back onto the driveway.

The problem came after I did the timing belt and swapped the alternator with a remanned denso 100amp. No start...

It catches for a second with starting fluid, but I couldn't get it to idle on the fluid. Could just be that I'd need two of me to properly modulate throttle, key, and fluid.

Triple checked timing marks on the cam and crank, I'm getting 160psi comp out of all 4 pistons cold. The dizzy was out of wack from PO so I didn't bother lining up the intermediate gear dimple (nor do I have anything to line it up with). It appears to be pointing at 1 when the engine is at TDC.

When cranking, it sounds absolutely fine. It just doesn't start.

The last thing for me to check before swapping the alternator back is going to be the fuel injectors. When I pulled the plugs, they did smell like fuel, but I wasn't 100%. Could've been ether, I guess...

Fuel pump is fine, she didn't start with the pump relay jumped.

So my question is, what possible reasons could the fuel injectors have for not wanting to work (if thats the case) on an 84, LH2.1(/2?) after doing a timing belt and alternator swap.
 
I updated my NO START THREAD today with how to use a TEST LAMP and BRAKE CLEANER to diagnose a no start. Click my sig.

I would disconnect your cold start injector, your ECT sensor, and the fuel injectors and see if you can get it to stay running on brake cleaner and then go from there. 5 min with $20 in tools...easy
 
ZVOLV said:
I updated my NO START THREAD today with how to use a TEST LAMP and BRAKE CLEANER to diagnose a no start. Click my sig.

I would disconnect your cold start injector, your ECT sensor, and the fuel injectors and see if you can get it to stay running on brake cleaner and then go from there. 5 min with $20 in tools...easy
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, no CSI but I got digging into the injectors. Confirmed that injectors were 1, not pulsing, and 2, not getting a constant 12v at ignition on. The problem is, after messing around with it and testing, it started up (and was running on 3 injectors lol).

Even worse, after getting the timing cover back on to set base timing with the dizzy, it now won't start again. The only things I did were remove the water pump pulley, put the cover on, mark tdc on the crank pulley, loosen the dizzy, and pull the thick wiring bundle over the dizzy to move it next to the other wiring bundles.

Checked fuel pump and injector relays, both work fine.

Assuming wiring at this point, but after cutting away some of the bundle that I moved, the wires look really good. My worst fear is having to trace back each wire, and at that point, I'd probably just do the LH2.4 conversion...
 
Well, got it sorted. The bad part is that I don't know exactly why, but I do know that some of it had to do with the 25amp fuse not making good connection.

Anyways, holy crap! That A cam makes it feel like an entirely different engine. I cannot believe how good the b23 feels throughout the rpm range. New exhaust gaskets helped with the overall sound too.

Now that it's off the dirt, interior is going to get put back together, and suspension finished up. Once it's all back together, driving well, looking as good as it can be, I'm gonna start ripping the 940 apart and get the +t going.
 
The fuse off the battery? That's a very common weak point. That's why I suggest checking power to the injectors/MAF as a basic initial test.


It goes: battery fuse->EFI relay-> EVERYTHING
 
ZVOLV said:
The fuse off the battery? That's a very common weak point. That's why I suggest checking power to the injectors/MAF as a basic initial test.


It goes: battery fuse->EFI relay-> EVERYTHING
Click to expand...

Yeah, I made the mistake of probing the terminals, got 12v, and checking fuse continuity, but didn't actually check to ensure that the power was flowing through the fuse.

It was just bizarre that it started up for no clear reason, without messing with that fuse.

Thank you again for your insight, it helped lead me down the right path :)
 
An LED test lamp still might throw you off on a circuit with a poor connection, like on his fuse holder here. I recommend an incandescent test lamp. The LED ones are good for measuring 5V signals.
 
BAR certification

bobxyz said:
- Is the '84 245 a "California" model (versus the other 49 states)? If so, you need a California 740T/940T as the donor.

- I don't think you can do the B23+T since it isn't an original engine configuration.

- If the 940 has EGR, you'll need to keep it, and probably need show that it's working.

- I don't know how fussy the referees are, but you may need the 940 airbox and 940 head mount distributor (a potential no go).

- You'll need a VSS speed sensor signal from the rear differential (or some sort of cable driven speedometer converter) to use LH2.4

- I think you'll need a labeled MIL / CEL light, but that might just be for OBD-II 1996+ conversions.

- The CAT is supposed to be within 6" of the donor vehicle location, and the O2 sensor within 1" of donor location (relative to CAT).

- It sounds like you can keep the original evap setup (i.e. hoses and charcoal canister). I think the later 940s (sometime after '91) added a solenoid purge valve, which would need to be retained.
Click to expand...

Wow, lots of important no-BS info here by Bobxyz. When I went through the CA ref, my project car was CA spec but the donor car was 49-state. That was an issue but they allowed it for my case I dont remember why. The head mount distributor is the big thing here. Keeping the head distributor on a 240 requires a lot of work. Has anybody acquired BAR certification with the head distributor removed and placed on the original B23 location on the side??? I think that makes it a multi-configuration and can be legally complicated. They will also look for a CEL and port if it is OBD-1. They will also look for and test the donor evap and EGR setup. Hey, I dont want to be so negative but its good to look at these things now rather than later. Ref scheduling can be a pain they are always swamped by fix-it citation cases so you want to pass on the first shot and I'd like to see you pass on your first shot too. The refs are very thorough. They will research you and your cars before your appointment. They probably even knew my pets name.
 
Alex S. said:
Wow, lots of important no-BS info here by Bobxyz. When I went through the CA ref, my project car was CA spec but the donor car was 49-state. That was an issue but they allowed it for my case I dont remember why. The head mount distributor is the big thing here. Keeping the head distributor on a 240 requires a lot of work. Has anybody acquired BAR certification with the head distributor removed and placed on the original B23 location on the side??? I think that makes it a multi-configuration and can be legally complicated. They will also look for a CEL and port if it is OBD-1. They will also look for and test the donor evap and EGR setup. Hey, I dont want to be so negative but its good to look at these things now rather than later. Ref scheduling can be a pain they are always swamped by fix-it citation cases so you want to pass on the first shot and I'd like to see you pass on your first shot too. The refs are very thorough. They will research you and your cars before your appointment. They probably even knew my pets name.
Click to expand...

I know of at least 2 people who have gotten BAR stickers on their 240s with block mount distributors and saying the swap was from a -88 740 turbo (they were lh2.2 swaps)...but that was 10+ years ago and I think they have gotten way more strict since then.
 
Yeah! Dress up the 940?s B230FT with a block mounted distributor and put that motor into the 240. Oh man I can see the ref?s eyes narrow on this one but it helps to know it was allowed with a 740 donor 10+ yrs ago. Btw, the refs DO ask what car the engine came from before you get an appointment.
 
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