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  • I'd be happy to come and pull the head. This weekend would be okay
    for me.

    One way of checking for a limited slip is to jack the rear end up
    so both wheels are in the air. If you turn one and the other
    spins the opposite way, it's open, if it spins the same way, it's
    a LSD. A more definitive way to check is to pop the cover off of
    the diff and look. Having a look inside the rear end is worth
    doing anyway if the car is scrap. Shiny gears inside there.

    Other things you should pull (for yourself) offhand: alternator,
    power steering pump, master cylinder and calipers (for cores, at
    least). Take all of the intercooler parts and plumbing along with
    the intake manifold too, if you haven't already. I'd be happy to
    give you a hand with this stuff in exchange for the head.

    I'm sim@puddle.ca if you want to email me.
    It sounds like you've stripped everything you need for the +t,
    but I'd take the opportunity to grab as many parts as you can
    store. All the relays and switches and stuff are easy to pull and
    small to store and can be expensive to buy. I've been able to fix
    all kinds of things with parts I just pulled because they were there.

    I've got a few things from an '89 740 turbo that I got from a guy
    in Coquitlam parting out his car. Mostly stuff to go EFI on the
    B21FT that will eventually go into my 240 wagon.

    If the car has a limited slip diff in it, I'd buy it if you don't
    take it for yourself.

    I wouldn't mind the head either, it would be nice to have another
    option when building the B21FT.

    Good to hear the car went to an enthusiast, the craigslist ads
    for that car have been pretty funny.
    Nice! That is a pretty good price for the tow. I paid $50 to
    flatbed a car all of 3 km. It was a free car though, so I can't
    complain.

    You can probably get at least half your money back by selling the
    hulk to another tow truck. I've had two tow truck drivers come by
    the house and offer to buy the 244 jalopy waiting in the driveway
    to have its engine pulled. $100.

    The oil pressure sender is on the exhaust side of the block, just
    ahead of the oil filter. If your '88 has an oil pressure gauge,
    the sender will look like a little can with a couple of spade
    terminals on top. If it just has an oil pressure light, I think
    the sender is smaller. You can see the bulge of the main oil
    gallery, the sender is screwed into the end of the gallery.

    I'm not sure what the thread is on the fitting, I doubt that you
    could get a T adapter from a hardware store, but it's possible.
    Napa might have something, or Green Line hose. I know places like
    Summit Racing would have something.
    Hey, is your 760 turbo parts car "Sasha" from Surrey that has
    been listed on Vancouver Craigslist for the past few months? If
    so, nice work, I'm glad it's not going straight to the crusher.
    $200 is about right by the sounds of the ad.

    I'll bet from the ad, that the 760 has a trashed engine wiring
    harness. I've recently parted an '83 and a '84 240 turbo, both
    had completely destroyed harnesses. Our '82 N/A GLT has the
    crumbly insulation, but it is still in pretty good shape. Turbo
    cars get a whole lot hotter.

    Your N/A '88 probably has a serviceable harness, but it is likely
    on its way out as that was one of the 'biodegradeable' years.

    Rebuilding the harness is probably wise, if it's not too daunting
    to you.

    I've got a '79 245 that I'm working towards stuffing a B21FT
    into. Good to hear of another turbo project in the lower
    mainland, good luck!
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