• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

[issue] LH2.2 Hall sensor + MS2

Leon_pp

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Location
France (zip: 51330)
Hi,

I have issue with a LH2.2 type hall sensor on a redblock (on a 740, so a cam type sensor) with a V3.57 MS2 Extra with last code.
No problem with reading RPM, configured it in trigger return mode, set R52 et R56 and this is OK.

I have a direct coil ignition via stock BIP on MS. I can't have a stable ignition angle. It always move even on fixed timing.

Have anyone an idea for my problem?

Thanks a lot
 
Is the engine running at all? Can it idle, maybe at higher than normal RPM?

You could try using "Basic Trigger" mode first. I forget the details, but Trigger Return mode switches sensor edges between cranking and running - maybe you're seeing that switch? For Trigger Return, you need to set both the standard Trigger Angle and the Cranking Angle to match your distributor position and the vane size in the distributor.

If you're still having problems, can you post a screenshot of a "High Speed Logger -> Tooth Logger" while running, or cranking?
 
I agree.
I don't think trigger return is the correct setting.

I used "basic trigger" "rising edge" with the Volvo distributor for input.
 
Yes Those settings were used through 3 versions of the firmware.

Probably using the opto input though as that is how it was done then.

Have you used the VR or Opto input method?
 
Last edited:
Set trigger to falling edge, and feed it some hardware latency. Timing belt stretch throws off timing accuracy by a small but significant degree.

Also set your trigger angle to 45? and rotate the distributor to match. My timing used to get constantly thrown off until I did it this way. Set it, rip on it for a minute, adjust distributor again as it will certainly get thrown off.
 
Actually the proper way to set it is to loosen the distributor and set it where the rotor is centered on #1 post at 25?BTDC and lock it down and never move the dist again.

Timing is set via Tuner Studio by changing the trigger angle offset.
Use 15? "fixed" to set timing then change back to use table.

Choose either Rising or falling edge to eliminate timing change when you rev it up. One will be stable one won't.
Note timing base setting will change depending on triggering choice, so don't be surprised when it runs like crap (or won't start) after flipping this setting.

If you look at the timing belt arrangement you will see the distance between the crank and the Aux shaft pulley is very short and very little belt stretch occurs, plus the load of the oil pump stabilizes the distributor.
This likely provides a more stable signal than the head mounted distributor. (which it appears the OP has)
But even then the large base circle cam and conservative lift do not stress the cam belt significantly.
And then most of the error will be seen at low RPM diminishing as rpm increases.
 
Set trigger to falling edge, and feed it some hardware latency. Timing belt stretch throws off timing accuracy by a small but significant degree.

Also set your trigger angle to 45? and rotate the distributor to match. My timing used to get constantly thrown off until I did it this way. Set it, rip on it for a minute, adjust distributor again as it will certainly get thrown off.

So you propose to get 45? trigger offset in MS and turni distributor to match this?
 
Yep. It's the most consistent method. Also set the triggering to falling edge. It's way more stable.
 
My block mounted distributor is set to 53.40, trigger return, falling edge. The rotor is about halfway past the #1 post at TDC. I set my fixed timing at 12?, mostly because when I set it up that's what the factory timing was already set to and I hadn't moved the distributor.
 
Nothing better this way.
Only better if i get spark after top dead center.
And if i start with The stock motronic i have 20* advance instead 10* and rock solid.
Checked The timing belt and still The same
 
Back
Top