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'69 144S: B20 performance bolt-ons?

fatcatbestcat

Professional Hack
Joined
Oct 1, 2019
Location
Mississauga, ON (Canada)
Not only am I new to this forum, I'm new to Volvos in general. Sorry if I'm asking some dumb questions, but I really don't know much about these cars - yet.

Anyway, I just bought a '69 144S with the B20, dual carb, high compression engine. I'm looking at hopping it up a little. I might be sniffing glue, but I'd really like 200 horsepower. I'm hoping to do as much as I can with performance bolt-ons, so I thought I'd list what I'd like. Tell me if these are good ideas or if this goal is feasible.

  • Firstly, I have an old set of Solex DDH 40 carbs (basically rebranded Weber DCOE 40s), and I have the capability to buy a manifold and linkage from a friend - are these style of carbs a good idea for the street? Fuel economy isn't that important, but reliability is.
  • Maybe a header?
  • Iske cam?
  • Looking at cylinder heads; is it worth it to buy a performance one, or should I just get new valve seats for my current head (it would be convenient to run this on unleaded pump gas)

If you have any tips or suggestions, please let me know.
Sorry for my ignorance.
 
200 HP is doable in a B20, but it will be very expensive. You're putting a LOT of polish onto a pig's ear. Not that the B18/20 is a BAD engine, it's very sturdy, durable, not many weak spots (lifters, cam gear). It's just a bit agrarian in nature. More so than the OHC engines that followed were. It's harder to get them to flow because of the design of the head, they have less displacement to start with, they have funky short(ish) rods and tall(ish) pistons.

Unless you start chucking boost at it (which is a different set of issues, with the cast iron head), making 200 HP is almost entirely an exercise in making torque at higher RPM's. And to get 200 hp out of a 2.0L engine, you have to make reasonable torque at very high rpm's. And that's just not easy to do without spending metric tons of cash.

But in general, with a 200 HP goal in mind:
1) Cylinder head - you mention a 'performance one' - but there really isn't such a thing. 40 - 50 years ago Volvo sold a small number of factory 'R-Sport' heads which are very well modified, in several stages from mild to max. You might find one. But they were based on stock head castings, so it's just a *really* good porting job done by a factory shop with tons of experience in making those crappy exhaust ports flow better. And there are various people who will modify one for you using a stock junkyard head, with varying degrees of experience doing it. And if you took a head to a performance shop, they'd likely be willing to go at it with a grinder. But what I have second-hand anecdotally heard is that when they apply their old domestic hot-rod tricks to a Volvo pushrod head, they're often likely to make it worse. Or at least not much better for $$$$ spent. The intakes hardly need any work on them (other than going to larger valves, to a point) - they already flow well enough. The main bottleneck is the exhaust port. With both manifolds on the same side, they needed to push the exhaust ports down low in the head, very low compared to the valve seat height (up at the top of the recessed combustion chamber). So the exhaust has to come out of the valve straight up, make an over 90-degree turn immediately, then flow out the port. You shouldn't touch that short side radius (port floor) *at all*, in fact, some super fast Swedes add metal in there to raise it. You have to concentrate on the roof of the port, and even then you have to know by painful experience (and a few sliced up junk heads) how far you can go before you break through to the other side of the casting and ruin the head. And the bowl, around the valve - the far side can't just be hogged out like most domestic head porting guys will want to do - it's needed to get the exhaust turned around and pointed down the exit. All in all, the head is one of the main limiting factors for making a higher peak HP number. And of course, in and of itself, it really won't add much without a bunch of supporting mods.

2) Displacement - there's no replacement for displacement. Well, there's boost, but setting that aside, another way to make more HP is to increase the displacement. More torque at the same RPM = more HP. It's fairly easy to go up to B21 sized pistons on a B20, even if you have an early 6-bolt engine as you have. Just get a set of B21 pistons and have a machine shop bore the block to suit them. They will be resistant, most engines can't have 3mm taken out of the bore and work well afterward. The Volvo block can. Reassure them that you won't be pissed at them if they screw it up. To avoid paying for expensive custom pistons for a 6-bolt engine (22mm wristpins vs 24mm in 8-bolt b20's and the B21-on redblock OHC motors) I've had machine shops press out the wristpin bearing on the rod, ream *very slightly*, and then install the 24mm pins in an interference fit. Works like a charm. Note that more displacement by itself won't really change the peak HP very much, that's all peak airflow at higher RPM's, but it will add torque down lower in the RPM range. And you will notice that torque every time you drive it. The peak HP just won't change much - the engine will still gasp for air and drop in power at similar RPM levels and similar peak power levels without a bunch of supporting mods.

3) Cam: You probably have a C cam in the car now (maybe a B?) which is nothing special at all, and designed to make power down at the sorts of RPM's that a sensible person would tend to use. I.e. not revved to the moon chasing HP. So you need something racier. What cam? I'm not the right person to ask. But this is where you have to start making sure things match each other. The intake and exhaust, for example, tend to be specialized around certain RPM ranges. You want all of these elements to more or less to coincide, so everything is working together in the RPM range you want to hit that peak in. If you have a bunch of racy parts and a tractor cam, it's not going to make good power. If you have a racecar cam and a fairly stock motor, it's not going to work well because nothing else will flow well at the RPM the cam works best in. Skills and experience in looking at cam specs are necessary. Not my forte.

4) Valvetrain - Stock Volvo valve springs weren't really meant to rev too high - they begin to float, Which is bad for them, the lifters, power output. Double valve springs are good. Higher ratio arms are also good, they perk up pretty much any cam a bit - assuming they don't push you into spring lock territory. The stock fiber gears get a bit stressed with high RPM's and double valve springs. Find a steel set.

5) Intake - DCOE's are nice, but 40's (so I've been repeatedly lectured about) are not really big enough for a fully warmed up B20. I don't think you're going to hit 200 with them. I'd like to think I haven't missd that many tricks with my PV's B20 engine, but it's got DCOE 40's on it, and it makes around 165 - 170 hp. Probably not going to make any more with those carbs. They're already using the largest chokes available for the 40-s - at 36mm. So probably need some 45's, maybe 48's or 50's. And (I'm no help here) select the proper manifold length. I know some are longer (better for lower RPM's???) and some are shorter (better for high?), not sure what the RPM ranges they correspond to, though.

6) Exhaust - The stock cast 4:2 manifold into the stock 2:1 downpipe actually works pretty well with modest amounts of performance improvement. But I don't think you're going to make 200 hp with one. I think the KGTrimning 4:2:1 tubular headers are damned nice. Pair that with a free-flowing 2.5 inch exhaust.

7) Ignition - not really sure if you'd need to do something there, but I see noticeable improvments with my MSD box at lower RPM's (where it does multiple zaps per ignition event). And my original stock coil made thin whispy blue sparks, and the MSD blaster (plus the MSD box raising the voltage to it) makes BIG FAT RED sparks that sound dangerous to be around, I definitely picked up power at higher RPM's when I changed that out.

8) Fuel - you're going to need to shoot for a fairly high CR to get to 200 hp - it just extracts a bit more power out of each combustion to have it expand that extra bit further. Probably going to need to be running it on premium.

After all that - congrats, you'll have built a somewhat peaky engine that makes most of its power above 3500 rpm. And is relatively flat underneath that. Which will be great fun in small doses, a bit tedious in a daily driver.
 
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200 is a bit of work to get to. I dont think there is really anyone doing "off the shelf" performance b20 heads. Porting, fixing the short side radius on the exhaust ports and going to larger valves and better valvetrain parts would be ideal for a hopped up b20. The 4-2 cast manifold is actually pretty good if you clean it up a bit, or a good stahl header or something would be a step up. The carbs, meh, going EFI with some itbs would allow reliability and some economy, if tuned properly using a alpha-n setup rather than speed density. Cam, sure, isky has done some years ago, and theyre still just like they were years ago. I would check in with Schneider personally, but the profiles are all going to be in the same ballpark. I kinda feel like the limiting factor, and also the "most gain made" area of the b20 is in the timing table. Thats where I have made some good consistent gains in both economy and power.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far! I did a tad more research, and evidently the 140s weigh a lot less than I expected. I was looking at this 4-door car, figuring it weighed maybe 3200 lbs, but these are apparently more like 2500. That also doesn't factor in the fact that I'm using fibreglass fenders (and maybe a hood as well, if I can find one). I think I could probably live with 150 hp.

I heard some mention of a turbo in one of the replies... I've never seen a turbo header used on a reverse flow head before...seems like it'd be really cramped. I suppose if I were to go the turbo route (as a VERY long-term project), I'd need a new cam and valve springs... anything else I should worry about?
 
2500 is being very generous for a 144. 2650 - 2700 probably closer. Go find a scale somewhere (one of the pick-n-pull yards here has one) and weigh it. Still, not as heavy as a 240. Heavier than a 120 series car. And a lot heavier than a deathtrap PV.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far! I did a tad more research, and evidently the 140s weigh a lot less than I expected. I was looking at this 4-door car, figuring it weighed maybe 3200 lbs, but these are apparently more like 2500. That also doesn't factor in the fact that I'm using fibreglass fenders (and maybe a hood as well, if I can find one). I think I could probably live with 150 hp.

I heard some mention of a turbo in one of the replies... I've never seen a turbo header used on a reverse flow head before...seems like it'd be really cramped. I suppose if I were to go the turbo route (as a VERY long-term project), I'd need a new cam and valve springs... anything else I should worry about?

I'm running a turbo b20 in my 122. PUSHROD POWAH!!!! Its a lil screamer. I'm running double springs, a K cam (similar to a D) and the k-jet intake/F Head ported and polished, custom header, 15g-ish turbo, ARP studs, cometic HG, "0" deck, and it pulls! With MS2, yoshi CAS adapter and LS coils I have the ability to work my own timing map, and fuel map pretty well.

Its very unsuspecting. But I'd say that I'm pretty close to the 300hp mark at 18-20psi. With the t5/3.73 ford 8.8 combo, I can pull on a c5 vette from a standing start until 1/2 way through 3rd, and were usually side by side through 4th thats where I wuss out.
 
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border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div></a> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjVcsMXHwHB/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Pie cuts. #nobendsneeded #builtnotbought #volvob20turbo</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cwdodson88/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> Chris Dodson</a> (@cwdodson88) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-05-28T20:49:48+00:00">May 28, 2018 at 1:49pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
 
That's...um...craftsmanship. Where should I weld the bung for the oil line from the pan?

All the welds hold just fine, got about 1k on this setup at 16-22psi, use of flat shift/antilag, and 2step on a near daily basis. I've gotten better at TIG since that one, also this was done with a lift start machine, its a little bit trickier than those old timers make it look.

If you have to ask where to put a drain, you should probably not try adding a turbo.
 
All the welds hold just fine, got about 1k on this setup at 16-22psi, use of flat shift/antilag, and 2step on a near daily basis. I've gotten better at TIG since that one, also this was done with a lift start machine, its a little bit trickier than those old timers make it look.

If you have to ask where to put a drain, you should probably not try adding a turbo.

Yeah, I just realized how dumb of a question that was. I looked it up and found a picture like this and I just kinda facepalmed.
OTC_oil_drain.jpg

Not the same engine, but I get the idea.

Is a blow-through carb a bad idea?
 

IMO, to spend the time/research/money to set up the engine for blow-through, you'd be far happier with MicroSquirt EFI. Better fuel control, MUCH better spark control, and overall much safer and easier to tune. Not to say it wouldn't be cool, but I'd go EFI for safety and ease.

Then again, my 142 hasn't driven in like 2 weeks.
 
IMO, to spend the time/research/money to set up the engine for blow-through, you'd be far happier with MicroSquirt EFI. Better fuel control, MUCH better spark control, and overall much safer and easier to tune. Not to say it wouldn't be cool, but I'd go EFI for safety and ease.

Then again, my 142 hasn't driven in like 2 weeks.

Think this is more of a long-term project, I suppose I won't cross EFI off the list. I'm pretty sure someone makes throttle bodies that fit on a DCOE manifold (so I won't have to fabricate one), I'm just afraid of the tuning process. I've never used any EFI system except MSD atomic (for an LS), and I imagine I'll never find another system as simple as that.
 
There are a couple of companies that make DCOE pattern throttle bodies. Jenvey even makes some extra cute ones that hide the injectors inside a DCOE float bowl, but I'm not sure it's worth paying extra for that.

And if you're going to blow boost into it, I'm not sure it's worth the cost of putting ITB's on it, might as well just use a D-Jet manifold.

Tuning isn't all that bad, just stick a wideband on it. It's a lot better than tuning a carb anyhow, since you can just get on the laptop and do anything you need to do. With a carb - you're stuck swapping little metal bits, or relying on dusty old tomes about what works. And autotune actually works pretty well these days in Tunerstudio/Megasquirt.

And fuel injection is a lot less mysterious when you can easily see 'inside the box' and see everything the sensors are sending it, and how the computer is reacting to it. Not like an OEM/Bosch injection system that only puts out some blink codes.
 
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