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Wuddup?
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Pictoral update coming soon. Especially when good ole' Kenny aka Redwood Chair comes and yanks his B20 :nod: |
any progress?
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progress?
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I begged him to keep it in there, :-D and apparently good sense prevailed.:) |
^ That is true, except you didnt really beg me to keep it in there because you wanted it haha
Not much progress, the big progress will be getting it out of the driveway and into the garage up top so I can work on it there instead of having it outside, will be much better. |
Ah, progress. I am looking forward to this progress.
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Hell, I'd probably call AAA to come move it :-P |
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I'm still first in line for a freshly rebuilt B20 should you decide to abandon it. I hope.;-) Good luck on the build. LMK if you need a hand with the bodywork I have some fancy materials on loan for a while. |
I may have solved your tailgate woes. X-Ray Auto in Seattle has the sheet metal for the rear of the car (from above the glass to the bottom seam, to each tail light. Essentially it's a used weld-in panel. I would have gotten it, but they want $1000 for it. I thought I'd be better at trying to fab sections from a rusted rear end section I got with my ES (and it worked).
Here's their contact info: 2639 NW Market St Seattle, WA 98107 Neighborhood: Ballard (206) 789-5455 I've been to their shop. I was droolin' all over the place with the cars they were workin' on and the spare parts they had. They are great people to work with as well. |
So this is back rolling again sorta.
Last week I picked up a 87' 744ti from RyanHackett. It was free, but it was missing a few things [turbo/ic/piping] and the engine apparently had a dead hole [which I might investigate] on a non-skinny rod block. I paid Henry [urbanwheeler] pretty much in whatever he wanted off the car [aside from a couple things] in exchange for making it a shell [for a V8 lemons car] Mostly picked it up to grab the harness/ECU's/etc to go along with the 94' b230ft I never was able to sell to swap in the ES. Mount solution/b20 oil pan/etc is already figured out, but next is the trans. Other than that, bodywork is the main focus. |
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You mean you're not going to restore it to stock and give it your mom, like a good son?
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1) Totally stock. Less power, less overall fun, less reliability, more desirable when completed due to being stock but would end up costing more. 2) Have a beautiful rare cool car that hauls ass in a reliable manner and spend 1/2 to 2/3 as much doing it She was cool with option two. |
Updates
the good news- *the rust was hardly a big deal on it [mostly surface, and fixed now], body is almost a shell and ready for paint [still need to find a trick to get the inner door handles off so I can get the door panels off, also need to remove the rear side glass]. Numerous other dents are gone. *B23FT I picked up is opened up getting all new seals/gaskets, everything inside looks good. Also scored a 90+ and a 16t. *Got the T5 for it, just gotta get some money together to send to Dale for the adapter. Also need to get a B20 bellhousing back from Redwood Chair. *Got seats from a 02' MBZ SL500, not crazy racing seats but comfortable, supportive, powered and heated. *Got nice 15'' mesh Enkei's to put on it, currently in the middle of polishing the lips [centers will be black] the bad news *I don't have a way to upload pics to show said progress *I gotta put the car on the shelf for a month or two and finish other projects *The a-hole I share my shop with stacked a ton of stuff on top of the pile of trim I removed from the car, bending some of them. I'd like to kill him but I need someone to pay the other half of rent on the shop I guess.... |
Whatever happened to this?
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I have been keeping it and all of the associated parts in storage.
Sometime in between, about a year or so ago, I did have a place to work on it. Got the LH 2.2 harness built among other small things. I recently acquired a shop space and moved everything over there, I plan on starting it again soon. I'm thinking about just tossing the drivetrain in and getting it going, and worrying about the whole gnarly restoration later. |
Wooohooo an update!
B23FT is almost ready to go in! Ordered a baffle box, plate and B20 oil pump from Hi-Performance Auto. Once that stuff is in the pan will go on and she will finally go in the engine bay. Details about the engine - 120k B23FT bottom end with fresh seals and gaskets AN 10 return [Yoshifab's kit] AN 10 crankcase vent [Yoshifab] B20 oil pump/pan with early B21 oil delivery pipe 398 SCP head w/K cam & adjustable gear Custom intake manifold [B21F intake with shorted runners and Yoshifab custom plenum] 90+ exhaust manifold with 19T |
Update again -
After losing storage space on the car, I almost sold it. But I decided to actually send the car off to get the rust fixed on it. I found the perfect person to do the work - he has done all the bodywork for a well known VCOA guy who deals with a lot of 1800's. Very excited about this |
Hi mate,
I was in Santa Cruz during August, should have come to see this beauty :cool: Can't wait to see pictures, and good point for the rust repair !! |
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So yesterday, I got a mixture of motivation and laziness - so instead of dropping in the B23FT I have for test fitment, which would have involved borrowing a load leveler, and schlepping my crane from the other side of my house [which involves a truck since I live on a hill], I simply took a bare B230FT block I have, bolted the adapter mounts to it, and set it in the engine bay by hand. I slapped a junk head on it, as well as a T3 bolted to a old style manifold
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdddafnfd.jpg I plan on running a 90+ with a K24 or 19T, either of which should be much smaller than the old style manifold with a T3. Should have more room with a smaller turbo. http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps75ouqxpj.jpg The intake manifold has obvious clearing issues, even without the giant master cylinder/brake booster which I am trying to retain. My plan for it is to cut the flange and about 3-4'' of runner, weld a couple of 2'' 90 degree elbows to the end into some velocity stacks inside of a nice sized plenum. I think with the runners already at a 45 angle and the additional 90's, it will tilt the plenum under the booster and master. I might have to cut an edge of the plenum to clear the steering shaft. I am running a Yoshifab CCV plate in place of the normal big plastic box, so that will be fine http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...psq8wcadpy.jpg The nose of the car, while unique, also makes things very tough as far as mounting a radiator that will suitably cool a turbo engine, on top of an intercooler and oil cooler. I have found that a Mini Cooper S or Saab Viggen intercooler will work well with the nose. For the cold side outlet, I will have to cut into some sheet metal. I am trying hard NOT to cut into the body of the car but that is one spot that I can't really avoid. With the engine also in place, I have 9.5'' of clearance from the block to frame rail where the radiator sits. The water pump needs at least 6''. I found a radiator on ebay that is crossflow [stock turbo redblock style] but similar dimensions to the upflow stock 1800 radiator [16'' X 20'']. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-209...5ULZ79&vxp=mtr With that radiator, I only have about 1.5''-2'' of space. Standard electric fans with center mount motors will not clear, I have found an alternative and while expensive, I think it will give me enough space to make it all fit with the water pump pulley. http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/side....html?cPath=31 I'm also thinking of running a standard fan, that radiator, and an electric water pump with a machined outlet to fit in place of the water pump. http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb0ak4oll.jpg |
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...psemtexwn0.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9fl0fdnj.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9r8b2m7d.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...pstkn0t718.jpg rust is gone. making it a driver here soon. probably going b20+t5 |
Do you have a b20?
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