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Driveshaft spacer fabrication questions
Hey all. I'm working out the last few bits of my M90 swap in my 740. I have been unable to find an M90 prop shaft or a shop who can modify an M46/7 prop shaft without shipping it to California or waiting longer than a month. This area SUCKS for car people.
I found this page: http://www.volvoturbo.net/Garagebilder%2023.html which tells me that my next idea of a spacer is at least possible. I'm going to draw this up and take it to the local fabricator but is there any particular type of steel I should tell him to use? Would regular mild steel hold up or should I use something more exotic? This setup will stop getting upgraded at around 300hp. Thanks! |
You're telling me there are no driveshaft shops in Florida?
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why not forged aluminium? I think it is used for wheel spacers as well. It will be cheaper to machine. and it will be lighter.
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I would use aluminum for that spacer. No need to go with steel and have it rust over the year. I would try to have it a little less thicker than what he did and maybe use flat head bolt that stay screwed in the adapter.
I did this adapter for Nathan, different purpose but same way of thinking. http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...pscb2a5118.jpg http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps66cbfc0b.jpg |
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If I find one it's likely to be in Orlando and that means I have to spend 2 hours driving there and 2 hours back, then do it again when they finish the work. Or pay to mail the thing to them and have them mail it back, which I doubt will be much cheaper. Quote:
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Lengthening a driveshaft is not rocket science. Just don't tell the shops what it's from. |
I'm fully aware. All I can tell you is that none of the shops around here will even look at it. Having a 9 to 5 job means I can't just go driving halfway across the state without a good reason.
I didn't expect this to be such a pain in the ass either, but it is what it is. I've spent the better part of a week making phone calls trying to figure out why there don't seem to be any competent shops around here. Every transmission shop and automotive performance shop I've spoken to has confirmed that they don't know anyone capable of working on Volvo drivelines. I appreciate your help though. |
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They hear the word Volvo and know it's some cheap F****r with a problem they'll lose money on and have to listen to whining when it's done |
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I thought he was looking for a spacer to fit the M90 in a 240. |
Call up the local shop, ask for the manager when you get told they can't retube a Volvo shaft. Ask him what is so different between a steel shaft on a Volvo and a steel shaft on (insert your favorite non-Volvo RWD car here). There ain't a difference.
Personally I'd go that route, but if they won't do it, yeah, go the alum. route. |
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I'm working on a place that does a lot of European performance stuff but I haven't been able to reach them all week. Looks like I'm going to own a big chunk of aluminum soon. |
Wow, that manager needs to be taught how the real world works. Just curious what shop they referred you to? Driveline Specialties by any chance? If it's some other shop then hey, I guess we have 2 here in Cali. lol
Best of luck man, sucks the shops there are idiots. FWIW I called 4 machine shops for a basic bore and hone on my 230FT block. They were fine until I said Volvo, then came the 'we don't do Volvo's'. 5th shop said no problem, a block is a block, boring and honing is boring and honing, doesn't matter if it's european cast iron or american. Bingo, that's the shop I've had great luck with. Similar experience with getting a diff installed years back. All was fine til I said Volvo. Dana 30, sure no problem, in a Volvo? Nope can't do it. Idiots. |
Sounds the like shop doesn't want to fab anything to make it work. If they took the time to make the tooling they won't have to say no the next time
Can you lengthen the rear driveshaft and repo the carrier bearing? That alum adapter roger made me is fitted in a BMW with a 700whp 1j and he launches the car at 10psi on drag radials at the strip around 4k in a manual car |
Some engine machine shops will weld and rebalance driveshafts.
I'm not sure why it's such a big issue. The driveshaft ends are welded between centers to keep them aligned. Any machine shop can do this, but a machined chunk of aluminum may be cheaper. |
We have the same type of shops in MA. No one wants to be responsible if (when) the custom piece fails and then get hit with a lawsuit.
Funny how everyone think it's so easy to find shops that do this type of work in every state. |
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And the ones that do are apparently Swedophobic. |
Flar-duh.
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Geographically and culturally as far from Flar-duh as you can be. Thank Dog. |
I have a m90 740 front driveshaft.. I have a M46 740 front driveshaft. I'll take measurements and pics here in a sec for you. YOu don't say what front driveshaft you have. You'll need either a 740 M46 turbo or 740 m47 as they both have the front quibo connector. I remember someone use two quibo's as a spacer before for a getrag conversion. I'll see what I have for front driveshaft's and compare them to the 740 M90 one I have.
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Tell them it is for a Jeep.... Most of the drive shafts use components that are "universal" and used in a lot vehicles. Find out what universal joints you have and see if you can cross reference it with a Jeep or some other application. |
The front of the M90 driveline is a guibo, a guibo like the BMW-O's... The back end of the front section of the two piece driveling is a splined slipper inner.. No u-joints to joint with.. Snot one on the front section of the m90 driveshafted.
Mull that over Mueller..ha. I will get those pics and measurements later today, got sidetracked yesterday. |
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