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-   -   Mike K's '79 242 Barn Car Revival (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=290558)

The Full Banana 07-13-2015 11:09 AM

If you end up needing a new pump, I recommend the Deutschworks DW300. I can't hear mine at all.

...but I also hope you don't need a new pump. ;-)

linuxman51 07-13-2015 12:33 PM

the walbro 450 I put in my v8 car's tank is great, and fairly cost efficient.

MrBrown 07-13-2015 09:18 PM

I have heard good things about the DW300.. I may get that one soon...

2fast242gt 07-16-2015 12:19 AM

I have a dw300 in my 240, it's super quiet!

M.H. Yount 07-16-2015 07:03 AM

Another DW300 here - can't even hear it prime in mine.

Stiggy Pop 07-16-2015 06:50 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, cause it looks like I'm buying a pump. Have tested this thing to death and can't get it to make over 60psi (which it does provide solidly). I took the sending unit out and pressurized it in a bucket and found that fuel was spraying out around the feed hose, evidently someone along the way struggled with hose clamps. Tightened them up and figured I had a lucky fix, but it made no difference in pressure. Everything checks out visually, pump sounds fine it's just coming up short. We can't really understand how it would fail/wear out like this but there's nothing else to eliminate.

Looks like the dw300 and the aero 340 are basically the same, but the dw has a 3 year warranty so I'll go for that. I put the aero back in the car so I can drive in the meantime at least.

If I put a brand new pump in and get 60psi boy I tell ya...

Stiggy Pop 07-22-2015 03:46 PM

Got the DW300 in, pretty straightforward although the extra size of these pumps and sock filters make getting them into the tank a bit of a bitch. I lost one float ball getting the aeromotive out, and another jamming the DW in (managed to fish it out with safety wire). The only issue I had was that the DW filter sock has height to it, so at the regular spot in the sending unit the sock was hitting the bottom of the tank. I slid the pump up a bit in the unit and it fit, and was a bit easier to get in and out as well.

Tested the pump and was happy to see that it deadheads past 100psi, so the A340 is confirmed as a bad pump (unless you only need 60psi). Here is my "don't try this at home, glad I didn't splode myself" test rig:

http://i.imgur.com/TSDGIh7.jpg

the DW in the sending unit

http://i.imgur.com/DbzBkYD.jpg

It is a bit quieter than the A340, I can't hear it running outside the car at idle like I could with the aeromotive. Though, I wonder if the noise was partially a function of the fact that the pump was bad/failing? At any rate, I've got proper fuel pressure now and am glad to have that off the list. Of course the map was built around the bad pump, so now it's suuper rich under boost. It'll have to sit like this until the end of the month when I can get a laptop back on it and get a checkup from Dr. Howard.

I finally got the door panels on, which was much more satisfying than it should be. Just really nice to have "finished" doors and not be pulling it closed with fingers hooked in the door skin anymore. I've also never driven the car with a place to rest my elbow! Small victories.

I, of course, broke all 8 tabs off my brown speaker grills back when I took the panels apart. Solved with a dash of two of my favorite ingredients: SEM black paint and DevCon epoxy

http://i.imgur.com/im05fxW.jpg

Thanks to Mr. Brown I was able to get the pulls on and I even found an unbroken passenger side map pocket in the shed.

http://i.imgur.com/wSbz7oq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/htS3CJR.jpg

and "it's clean so I took pictures, pictures"

http://i.imgur.com/7kWta8V.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xznh6Wj.jpg

Trying to decide what I want to do when I finish the wheels. Keep the all black centers? Black with machined face on the web? Full polish?

Next on the docket: radiator and e-fan!

oldschoolvolvo 07-22-2015 05:49 PM

imo it looks great as is! glad you got the fuel pump figured out. :volvo:

Tuff240 07-22-2015 06:13 PM

Yeah, I like the polished lips all black center look also.

Duder 07-22-2015 06:45 PM

Great to hear your pump issues are sorted.

Your car looks awesome. I like the wheels just the way they are. Black centers compliment the black interior.

MrBrown 07-23-2015 07:11 AM

Black on black on black

Hank Scorpio 07-24-2015 10:00 AM

I think my 242 probably had 4 sender floats floating around the tank. Hate those bastards!! Glad you got it squared away!

MrBrown 07-26-2015 09:36 AM

I hate when I drop my balls too..

Stiggy Pop 08-13-2015 11:35 AM

Fuel pump is straightened out, but now going around the tune again. Working through it with Kenny's help, it has an odd super lean spot right around 3k rpm and ~100kPa. It's asking for a lot of fuel compared to the cells around it. This is right around the transition where the turbo starts building positive pressure. I'll post up some screenshots later. It's also going hard lean on me over 5k rpm so I guess I need to keep adding fuel back in (pulled a bunch out because after the fuel pressure issue was fixed I was 9:1 under boost).

The clutch and transmission are becoming a concern. A few weeks ago I had to tighten the clutch because I couldn't get the car into first or reverse. In order to get it to release I have to set it where I've got NO freeplay that I can feel. Now after a bit more driving I'm back to grinding into first and reverse, and shifts are notchy. I just saw Towery post this in another thread:

I've never used an adapter kit that retains the Volvo bearing. I use a modified M46 fork (just grind down the height of the pins a little) along with some rectangular brass blocks to adapter to the Ford bearing. I tried to use an off the shelf 5.0 Mustang bearing (~$15, available anywhere) because it was for our lemons car and I didn't want to use difficult to find parts. Well, the bearing wasn't tall enough, so we ended up having to preload the cable just to get the clutch to disengage. Obviously that didn't work out. So then I ordered the taller McLeod bearing for the Mustang application (~$90). That's what I use in my car, so I knew it would work...and it does. It just costs a lot more.

My adapter set up is the same, with a Ford bearing. I wonder if that could be relevant to what I've been seeing. I think I might just call Yoshifab and talk to them about a whole new flywheel/clutch/PP setup because I'm not really happy with what's in the car (pedal effort is unnecessarily heavy for what I've got). Hopefully everything is OK with the box itself but with the luck I've had lately...

blkaplan 08-13-2015 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 5226107)
My adapter set up is the same, with a Ford bearing. I wonder if that could be relevant to what I've been seeing. I think I might just call Yoshifab and talk to them about a whole new flywheel/clutch/PP setup because I'm not really happy with what's in the car (pedal effort is unnecessarily heavy for what I've got). Hopefully everything is OK with the box itself but with the luck I've had lately...

It should be pretty obvious if you need a taller bearing or not, Is your clutch pedal engagement at the top, middle, or bottom of the stroke? If you just barely engage the clutch at the bottom then you need a taller bearing. If your clutch fork is not 90 degrees to the fingers (or parallel to the flywheel) then you will have a heavier than necessary pedal effort.

Stiggy Pop 08-13-2015 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan (Post 5226128)
It should be pretty obvious if you need a taller bearing or not, Is your clutch pedal engagement at the top, middle, or bottom of the stroke? If you just barely engage the clutch at the bottom then you need a taller bearing. If your clutch pedal is not 90 degrees to the fingers (or parallel to the flywheel) then you will have a heavier than necessary pedal effort.

it's in the middle when it's adjusted up past the point of any free play. Was like this when I first moved the parts over and put the car together but just haven't gone back to it. Assuming you meant clutch fork not pedal being parallel to the flywheel? Never heard that rule of thumb before I'll have to look at it.

blkaplan 08-13-2015 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 5226143)
it's in the middle when it's adjusted up past the point of any free play. Was like this when I first moved the parts over and put the car together but just haven't gone back to it. Assuming you meant clutch fork not pedal being parallel to the flywheel? Never heard that rule of thumb before I'll have to look at it.

Correct, I meant clutch fork :oops:

I would try a longer TOB then or inspect and see what you have. You should be able to have free play mid travel.

As far as the rule goes, its just a simple concept of having the best leverage over something when you push at a 90 degree angle... Just like you do when you use a socket set.

Stiggy Pop 08-13-2015 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan (Post 5226147)
Correct, I meant clutch fork :oops:

I would try a longer TOB then or inspect and see what you have. You should be able to have free play mid travel.

As far as the rule goes, its just a simple concept of having the best leverage over something when you push at a 90 degree angle... Just like you do when you use a socket set.

Yup it makes a lot of sense. We have always thought the pedal was way too stiff, good thing to dig into once we get it back to running right.

Stiggy Pop 10-05-2015 03:48 PM

Car still exists. As tends to be the case, the big projects are getting pushed off to the down season (read: the long dark New England winter where joy goes to die). A big part of this can be seen behind the car. Bought a house in September, wedding in a week and a half so I really haven't had the time to dig deep into the car so I've been keeping it to light changes and tuning.

http://i.imgur.com/I8cqEVQ.jpg

Lot more key clacking than wrench turning. I got some more input from Kenny then started working my way through the VE table making changes myself. I have been doing things very slowly which has kind of drawn out the process but I've gotten a lot more comfortable tweaking things. My focus was on smoothing out my midrange where I had a stubborn lean spot right around 3k rpm at the on-boost transition and slowly backing fuel out of the last 1500rpm of the table where I was going pig rich. Got that smoothed out and it's running as smooth as it ever has. I actually saw 20psi for the first time the other day and it's definitely never been faster, pretty impressive actually. Nice cool temps in the 50's help too.

This is one of my favorite changes, vastly improved the driving experience. I got rid of my 6" stubby shifter handle and got a Hurst with an S shape (Hurst 5388550) that puts it in an excellent position. Shift knob is just a simple Delrin ball I got off Amazon for $25. Shift boot came from the boards, and is a nice match to the seats. Just need to come up with some grommet action so it's not loose around the handle. Putting the boots on did a lot to shut up my rattley shifter, so between that and the ergonomic improvements it really paid off.

http://i.imgur.com/G1ms3tj.jpg

Stuck the triple cluster in for the Fall car shows, haven't bothered to wire it up yet. Just don't feel like doing anything around the engine, even simply adding pressure sender, because it's coming out so soon. Looks good though and it's nice to have the interior visually full. Had to work the face plate a bit to fit over the Sunpro boost gauge, which will also be replaced as it's 20psi max which I plan to exceed!

http://i.imgur.com/HPsu9eM.jpg

Pretty much a wrap on the driving season this year. I'm just going to keep working the tune and driving the pants off of it. Engine is getting noisy, but also isn't giving any indication it's going to give up. Lived a tough life and kept on giving, I hope the fancy pants expensive motor is as willing a servant.

Once the wedding is done I'll start assembling the other block. The thought is that I can drop it in, break it in with my street tune, then go strap it down and see what the thing can do in the Spring. Hoping for a done-in-a-weekend in and out swap, we'll see. Wonder what it's making for power with the current setup at 20psi? I don't have a good yardstick, it's a hell of a lot faster than my SAABs were, much slower than my Dad's worked C6 Z06. So uhh, more than 230, less than 600 crank lol.

Boring update, shiny things next time I promise.

Harlard 10-05-2015 05:50 PM

Yeah buddy!

fortbrick 10-06-2015 11:51 AM

Happy to see that all is well with the car, it's looking good! Congrats on the new home and upcoming marriage as well.

Did you ever use the sound deadener with the t5 shifter? I must have missed that bit if you mentioned it a while back.

Stiggy Pop 10-06-2015 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fortbrick (Post 5257141)
Happy to see that all is well with the car, it's looking good! Congrats on the new home and upcoming marriage as well.

Did you ever use the sound deadener with the t5 shifter? I must have missed that bit if you mentioned it a while back.

The isolating gasket deal? Not yet, I might grab one and put it on when it's out and easy to get the top plate off. Getting the shift boot on, even without the grommet, helped a ton. It seems like just not having the shifter totally loose to buzz around made the difference. Only thing now is the closure snap on the alcantara boot buzzes against the shifter in 5th so I had to put a little piece of tape on it haha. Generally now that the interior is a lot more "civilized" I'm hearing some of the second tier squeaks and rattles. Spend a lot of time driving around touching/pushing things. Old car stuff..

Oh forgot to mention - when I changed plugs recently my DIY MSD wires had like a 50% come apart rate disconnecting them. All of my crimps were "good" with the MSD tool, and I pulled on boots not wires, and still was pulling wires out of the terminals. I was PISSED after the pain in the ass it was to assemble those things. I also never felt like they went on well, it was really hard to get them onto the plugs and to get a nice positive "click", and once they were on it was really tough to get them off, hence ended up pulling things apart. Luckily we had 7 plug wires from my Dad's GTO engine swap. They're a bit short on #4 with the angle of the coils but worked out. They also go on WAY better than the MSD wires and just have a better feeling about them in general. I put the DEI fibeglass boots on them and did some wrapping in DEI adhesive heat tape as well. Might end up having someone custom build me a set later on. I think I'd suggest to anyone else to skip the hassle trying to assemble the MSD stuff.

mikezohsix 10-06-2015 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 5257312)

Oh forgot to mention - when I changed plugs recently my DIY MSD wires had like a 50% come apart rate disconnecting them. All of my crimps were "good" with the MSD tool, and I pulled on boots not wires, and still was pulling wires out of the terminals. I was PISSED after the pain in the ass it was to assemble those things. I also never felt like they went on well, it was really hard to get them onto the plugs and to get a nice positive "click", and once they were on it was really tough to get them off, hence ended up pulling things apart. Luckily we had 7 plug wires from my Dad's GTO engine swap. They're a bit short on #4 with the angle of the coils but worked out. They also go on WAY better than the MSD wires and just have a better feeling about them in general. I put the DEI fibeglass boots on them and did some wrapping in DEI adhesive heat tape as well. Might end up having someone custom build me a set later on. I think I'd suggest to anyone else to skip the hassle trying to assemble the MSD stuff.

LS truck plug wires are a little longer, you, or anyone else using LS coils and the bracket on top of the valve cover should consider them, they're stupid cheap compared to custom wires, or even what you did by building the wires, and you get two full sets for around $50! So when you burn one, toss it, and don't look back...

Stiggy Pop 10-27-2015 09:29 AM

I'm just getting the last few weeks of hammering on this engine in before the car gets stored and all the winter projects get started. Have some odd behavior to diagnose:

Car was running great at ~18psi. I noticed last week that I was getting some mid-range lean spike behavior again, which I flattened back out with the laptop: my most used and least favorite tool these days. Then I started hearing some detonation in higher gears under sustained boost, where I wasn't getting a lick of it before. AFR's are steady ~11.5:1 while the car is detonating. That's matched on both the wideband and TS cluster. I'm also not seeing all of my 18psi while this is happening - my mechanical gauge hits 12-13 psi and stops dead, and during a quick log I took yesterday kPa max was 205, again while I was hearing detonation.

Manual boost controller setting hasn't moved, all lines are intact and look good. No vac hoses have popped off nipples. MAP behaves/tracks normally. Not sure what's going on, the ping with good consistent AFR's is different, and wonder where the boost is? It feels fine otherwise, spools right up to 12-13 on the mechanical gauge fine, and it's only when I keep my foot in it past that point the det starts. Cold here now (34deg this morning on my way in), so for the most part it's spool to wheelspin even through third, so it's not until 4th/5th when I can really hold it down that it starts.

Stiggy Pop 10-27-2015 12:30 PM

ehh nevermind, post about it to make it untrue. I think the mechanical gauge was sticking this morning. Just ran around at lunch and pegged the gauge/saw 240kPa on the log (whoops). So all the boost is there, still hearing the ping. Never went over 11.5:1 with the heat on it.


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