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Still 92 B230F No start

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
Hey all,

You guys might remember I was having a no start on hot start ups. After doing PCV cleaning etc it ran really good for the last two weeks. I guess I potentially just masked the problem. I do believe as someone stated before I could be dealing with an injector problem. It doesn’t want to start up at all but cranks strong (since this has happend I’ve always been able to get it running, now it doesn’t want to). I can smell fuel coming up to the front so I really don’t think it’s a clogged filter. I’ve done AMM, O2, CTS, checked plugs and wires, cap and rotor, all looks normal. Fuel pumps are working fine and Fuel relay was also replaced.

The injectors are the last thing I haven’t checked and are the original injectors. They were cleaned up and rebuilt 2 years ago but it’s possible one has completely failed. I really just don’t see what else it could be. It just won’t start at all now but wants to. I feel like I’ve covered most all. I did get it to start rough twice with my foot on the gas and it wanted to go but as soon as I let off the gas it died.

Anyway, does anyone have a good set of decent mileage working injectors?

Thanks
 
Removed fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and no fuel dripping but hose does smell of fuel. I heard some popping back on drivers side during constant cranking.

Update though!!! I got the car running after it sat a bit and while driving especially flooring it hard it dumbs way down close to stalling but anyway low rpm really affected it. I hiccuped into my apartment parking so glad for that.

Anyway, could it be potential fuel filter clogged etc? This could mean needing to check in tank set up but PO stated it was replaced recently when I purchased (2016). But if not that possible injectors
 
Yea I think I’m going to look into my fuel pressure regulator. I do believe it’s the original one and hasn’t been replaced before. The vacuum line has smelled horribly of fuel for a while because I remember smelling the line months back and it was the same. I guess a failing FPR could imitate a bad injector as well. I’m definitely having a fuel problem and like I said the smelling of the gas up front as well as my mpg’s going way down and trouble starting I could honestly have a failed FPR.
 
Yea I just replaced coolant temp sensor afew weeks ago with a brand new one.

Anyway guys so I just put in the new FPR and it’s helping it run somewhat better but the engine loses power under heavy load for a quick second. Still hard to start at times. It’s definitely starved for fuel so I’m thinking still clogged fuel filter or injector issue.

It just started doing this dying out and losing power under heavy load so the problem is getting worse. When it starts it seems to idle fine but under load causes the issue and stalling out at times. I figure there’s no point in replacing filter without getting into the tank and inspecting in there. The real issue could lie there even though P.O. said it was replaced. I would hate to think it’s my fuel pumps. It’s never completely shut off before while driving and they both buzz when the car is in the on position.
 
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Yea it was for the 240. Aftermarket but was the correct part. I really don’t think it’s the CTS.
 
Runner 3 rifht? The front temp sensor is for gauge. The far back one is the ECT and it controls fuel varying temps. As if it think its cold, it'll dump all the fuel. Probably way lean if it reads hot
 
Mbeas96 said:
Runner 3 rifht? The front temp sensor is for gauge. The far back one is the ECT and it controls fuel varying temps. As if it think its cold, it'll dump all the fuel. Probably way lean if it reads hot
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What he said, there are two. The one you want to replace has a black connector housing.

You have fuel, but have you confirmed spark? One bad injector isn't going to stop the car from starting even if it doesn't function at all. And unless it's REALLY screwed, neither will PCV.
 
No codes. O2 is new. Sorry for late responses,
Gotta hurricane here in the southeast.

I’m really thinking it’s my in tank pump guys. Most said filters rarely clog and the system is starved for fuel. And now also saying one bad injector wouldn’t cause these such issues. I haven’t replaced in tank. I think it’s finally on it’s way out.
 
xDread92x said:
No codes. O2 is new. Sorry for late responses,
Gotta hurricane here in the southeast.

I?m really thinking it?s my in tank pump guys. Most said filters rarely clog and the system is starved for fuel. And now also saying one bad injector wouldn?t cause these such issues. I haven?t replaced in tank. I think it?s finally on it?s way out.
Click to expand...

Does your car have a fuse for the in-tank pump? My 88 765 has a fuel pump fuse, and an in-tank pump fuse. Pull fuse for in-tank pump, check for rather noisy main pump.
 
Fuse four should be the intank pump and you can remove the fuse and replace it with a ampmeter set for about 10 amp scale. When running the intank pump should draw around 1..5 to 2 amps or so. If no current the pump isn't running. If it is running you may still have a decayed delivery hose in there. A short hose that connects the pump to the sender can fail and there is also a screen filter on the pump intake that can clog. If the delivery hose is failed the car won't run as well when the tank is lower and the main pump can get noisy.
 
Yea months back the in tank pump was really noisey from time to time but it seems like it’s gotten quieter (maybe because it’s finally failed). They both seem to buzz when key is in on position but out of all the work I’ve done the problem still persists and has gotten to the point of the car not starting/running.

When I removed the FPR the other day a decent amount of fuel came out of the fuel rail. That’s not to say that the in tank is bringing in enough fuel to run properly. The symptoms really are pointing
towards fuel pump. I’ve had this issue before with in tank and the symptoms are almost exact. I wonder if now my main pump has been exhausted now after all this time.
 
dl242gt said:
Fuse four should be the intank pump and you can remove the fuse and replace it with a ampmeter set for about 10 amp scale. When running the intank pump should draw around 1..5 to 2 amps or so. If no current the pump isn't running. If it is running you may still have a decayed delivery hose in there. A short hose that connects the pump to the sender can fail and there is also a screen filter on the pump intake that can clog. If the delivery hose is failed the car won't run as well when the tank is lower and the main pump can get noisy.
Click to expand...


I'm giving up on telling tbrickers how to use a meter.
 
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