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Panhard bar angle

C

chris gilmour

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Location
Halifax, NS canada
Can any of you fine lads with a protractor mind crawling under their 240 and just seeing what the actual angle of the bend on the bar is?

Yesterday I snapped my factory bar clean in half at the kink. I'm a machinist so I'm gonna build a better stronger one. Since mine is snapped in two, I have no guide to go by. I know it just needs to clear the diff, and gas tank. But it would be handy to just have a proper number to bend to.
 
hey Chris. I have that sedan in the shop pulling the motor, would the panhard on it fit your wagon? All my wagons are feet deep in snow this morning lol
 
smashed 54 said:
hey Chris. I have that sedan in the shop pulling the motor, would the panhard on it fit your wagon? All my wagons are feet deep in snow this morning lol
Click to expand...

It would fit! But I'm gonna use some 1" diameter stainless and use Heim joints on the end. I just need to know the angle so I can bend the material
 
I think he's just asking if the Panhard is the same for wagons and sedans --- that way he can measure the sedan version as the wagon version is inaccessible. They're both the same.
 
5.5 degrees, easy to measure with the gas tank out... : ) cleaned it off, places a welding magnet on level, placed card-board straight edge on opposite side of bend, traced line from magnet, checked angle with carpenter/rafter gauge. checked twice. it's in good shape if you need it
 
smashed 54 said:
5.5 degrees, easy to measure with the gas tank out... : ) cleaned it off, places a welding magnet on level, placed card-board straight edge on opposite side of bend, traced line from magnet, checked angle with carpenter/rafter gauge. checked twice. it's in good shape if you need it
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I'll post the final product in this thread when I'm done. Just gotta wait for the Teflon lined Heim joints to come in at Nova automotive.
 
The best angle should be level to the ground with the car at ride height.
 
chris gilmour said:
It would fit! But I'm gonna use some 1" diameter stainless and use Heim joints on the end. I just need to know the angle so I can bend the material
Click to expand...

That's going to be pretty marginal if your using 304SS. 316SS would be better from a strength stand point. I'd go up a to 1.25in to increase the stiffness of the panhard bar.
 
Chrome/moly light and strong, can you tig? Heim joint will put noise/vibration in the car.
 
I'm not using tube guys. I ended up using 7/8" solid 316 stainless rod. Drilled and tapped the ends for 5/8-18. Put it in the press and put a 5.5* bend in it. Off set to one side as the orginal is.

Just waiting on my Heim joints to come in tomorrow, then I can machine some reducer spacers. I'm not worried about vibrations. The car has solid torque rods with heims, and has a fixed back fiber glass race seat. It's not the regular grandpa mobile 245.

Here's the bar. Will post final pics with the joints and spacers hopefully by the end of the week.
E394EC67-1DA7-4D27-B0A5-90F01ABB005D.jpg

A41B3EFB-3AB5-45C6-9BB3-995286434520.jpg
 
culberro said:
That's one heavy noodle you got there!
Click to expand...

if ya break it build it stronger ;)

i beat the living **** out of my wagon. Its winter here, and the moment the roads have any snow on them, I'm out drifting every corner possible. every now and then you'll grab a salted payment patch and she'll grab hard. probably how the old one snapped lol. plus now it gave me an excuse to build one with adjustability. my passenger side fender used to hack the hell out of my rear tire all the time.
 
You can start thinking about reinforcing the panhard bar mount on the chassis, especially if its rusty. Also check the mount on the axle.
 
The lower the point on the axle the better the roll center will be, but you will still need to keep the bar level, so you might have to change the mounting points, to get that. One of the race cars that I built, the mount was under the diff housing, got us a 1 second better lap time at Lime Rock.
 
not too worried about the mounting locations. they worked fine before, and they are in good shape too.

sadly, the parts store got the wrong ends in today. should have the proper ones next week. then i can finally make the spacers/reducers and put it in
 
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