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-   -   Going straight / 240 steering "wander" (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=330227)

LC4CARL 02-20-2017 11:13 PM

Going straight / 240 steering "wander"
 
The car ('87 245 N/A) has the following mods: 2.5 coils off front, 1.0 off rear, Bilstien Touring shocks, adjustable rear track bar, 16.5 mm rear wheel spacers, upper and lower front braces, Hydras with new 215/55R16 tires (32 psi), 23mm / 19mm swaybars, manual steering rack, new ball joints, tight tie rod ends, original bushings.

Alignment: Camber: L -.3 / R -.1, Caster: L 2.2 / R 1.8, Toe: L .15* / R .15*

The goal is a decent handling, reliable street car.

The absolute worst thing about this car is that it will not track straight. It drives me crazy. On anything less than a perfect road, it wanders in the lane requiring near constant steering input.

I seldom drive the car and don't recall at which point in my modifications the steering deteriorated. It's possible it was like this from the start as the car was in extreme disrepair.

By lowering the front end and "skying" the lower control arms, is it common for the car to wander? I've lowered other vehicles and not run into this, but each car is different. My first thought is worn parts, but I can't find them.

At this point, it goes without saying that, Redwood has the right for a huge "I told you so."

:grrr:


https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Volv.../M/149-L-M.jpg

Redwood Chair 02-20-2017 11:24 PM

You got a big fat rake going on there, and not only is it not a top fuel dragster BUT you've negated a good deal of the caster.

TOLD YOU SO SUCKA!

KeizerBrickGuy 02-20-2017 11:25 PM

So it drives straight on a decent road(with no need for contact with the steering wheel)? If it doesn't drive straight on it's own on a mostly flat street, the alignment tech needs a toe punch to his sack. When I was getting my bricks aligned I made sure that camber and toe were to spec. The caster doesn't look horrible. I would try getting the camber set to -0.5* with the same current toe setting of -0.15*. My car has the strut mounts that are separating and I was able to get camber set to -0.5* and toe around -0.1 to -0.15* and it doesn't wander unless I'm on I-5.

KeizerBrickGuy 02-20-2017 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5564641)
You got a big fat rake going on there, and not only is it not a top fuel dragster BUT you've negated a good deal of the caster.

TOLD YOU SO SUCKA!

:rofl:

LC4CARL 02-20-2017 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5564641)
You got a big fat rake going on there, and not only is it not a top fuel dragster BUT you've negated a good deal of the caster.

TOLD YOU SO SUCKA!


More caster couldn't hurt. Wish there was a way to adjust it. I've got the power steering ball joints on it. What are you guys seeing for caster numbers?

I probably did take too much out of the front springs. Didn't want to cripple the rear suspension too much in case I actually had to carry something.

It's not nearly as jacked up as my HS buddies Nova with shackles...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Volv.../2/M/013-M.jpg

Redwood Chair 02-20-2017 11:48 PM

N00brake
 
NB4 how come my front tires are getting feathered and worn on the outer edges?

:owned:

But hey you're one of the kewl kids now right?

PromiseRing 02-21-2017 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5564660)
NB4 how come my front tires are getting feathered and worn on the outer edges?

:owned:

But hey you're one of the kewl kids now right?

relatable

LC4CARL 02-21-2017 01:05 AM

Whatever.

toms_elleck 02-21-2017 02:11 AM

Try just lowering the back a 1/2 coil. It won't hurt your ability to load it up. Unless you plan on sticking like a half a ton of bricks in there or something. And at that point, you'd want overload springs (cut down) with stiffer shocks anyway.
I used to load my Beige Against the Machine wagon to the gills with swap meet parts. Never had a problem. And it started out lower than yours, I believe.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...o/IMG_0336.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...ntosBug021.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...o/IMG_0452.jpg

Unloaded:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...o/IMG_0406.jpg


These cars wander like **** without enough caster. If you really want to keep the rake, get aftermarket camber plates so that you can wank a bunch of additional caster into the car.

Tuff240 02-21-2017 05:13 AM

Go have A N T tire align it.
-.5 to -1 camber, toe 0* would be a good start from where you are at.

The rake isn't helping at all. As Ken said, you lost caster, but you have a lot of weight riding on the front tires now also. It's probably squirrelly under braking or during hard cornering right now too.

Also what ball joints are you using? Manual or power ones? Should be using power ones with more castor.
Loosen the 3 bj bolts and pull out and forward on the strut assembly while you tighten them.

blkaplan 02-21-2017 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC4CARL (Post 5564656)
More caster couldn't hurt. Wish there was a way to adjust it.

If only there was some magical way.... :roll:

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections...t-strut-mounts

or

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections...e-strut-mounts

KeizerBrickGuy 02-21-2017 12:42 PM

My caster is shot to hell, but it doesn't wander unless I'm driving on a heavily travelled road like I-5, I-84 or the like. Caster is important too, but those numbers shouldn't make it too bad. I've been considering Bens strut mounts, just gotta save. I need to pull my alignment specs from the last alignment I did before I got my State job. I'll report with my numbers when I get to my work bench/station.

Redwood Chair 02-21-2017 01:05 PM

Your worn out rack probably isn't helping either.

Harlard 02-21-2017 01:07 PM

Lower the ass end and get BNE Select top mounts. DO IT</a> NOOB.

Jack 02-21-2017 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5564641)
You got a big fat rake going on there, and not only is it not a top fuel dragster BUT you've negated a good deal of the caster.

TOLD YOU SO SUCKA!

You don't know nothing old man....



We said this would happen from the start

✅ cut sprangs
✅ complain of crap ride/drive ability

Future ✅ s

- worn tires
- put on jackstands
- let 6 months pass
- buy another Volvo
- crush

Benjam83 02-21-2017 01:59 PM

Tie rod ends?
Ball joints?
Bushings?

Adjustable strut mounts aren't going to do crap if the rest of the system isn't in good repair.

Jack 02-21-2017 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benjam83 (Post 5564924)
Tie rod ends?
Ball joints?
Bushings?

Adjustable strut mounts aren't going to do crap if the rest of the system isn't in good repair.

Are you turning blue yet?

Harlard 02-21-2017 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benjam83 (Post 5564924)
Tie rod ends?
Ball joints?
Bushings?

Adjustable strut mounts aren't going to do crap if the rest of the system isn't in good repair.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack (Post 5564926)
Are you turning blue yet?

We are all assuming that OP knows how to keep wear items replaced when needed, based on post history.

Jack 02-21-2017 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harlard (Post 5564928)
We are all assuming that OP knows how to keep wear items replaced when needed, based on post history.

Well I'm on page 22 of his thread and do far only suspension work done was fatter sways

Edit page 25 got lower chassis braces...

Redwood Chair 02-21-2017 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harlard (Post 5564928)
We are all assuming that OP knows how to keep wear items replaced when needed, based on post history.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack (Post 5564933)
Well I'm on page 22 of his thread and do far only suspension work done was fatter sways

Edit page 25 got lower chassis braces...

:nod:

He thinks it looks good though ....























































Little does he know he's the only one.




































































And Chicks definitely don't dig it.

culberro 02-21-2017 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuff240 (Post 5564759)
Go have A N T tire align it.
-.5 to -1 camber, toe 0* would be a good start from where you are at.

This^

If you're in the Portland area, seriously get to know Garth and the crew at Trackside Motorsports / A-n-T Tire.
I'd suggest just a smidge of toe-in for a DD, and as much camber as you can get with stock sprangs.

Want better handling? Spend the coin to get more caster and a bit more negative camber.

Jack 02-21-2017 06:13 PM

chicks dig 122s

LC4CARL 02-21-2017 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5564660)
NB4 how come my front tires are getting feathered and worn on the outer edges?

:owned:

But hey you're one of the kewl kids now right?

NB4? Thanks a lot.

LC4CARL 02-21-2017 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy (Post 5564642)
So it drives straight on a decent road(with no need for contact with the steering wheel)? If it doesn't drive straight on it's own on a mostly flat street, the alignment tech needs a toe punch to his sack. When I was getting my bricks aligned I made sure that camber and toe were to spec. The caster doesn't look horrible. I would try getting the camber set to -0.5* with the same current toe setting of -0.15*. My car has the strut mounts that are separating and I was able to get camber set to -0.5* and toe around -0.1 to -0.15* and it doesn't wander unless I'm on I-5.

Good stuff. Thanks.

LC4CARL 02-21-2017 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slammed145 (Post 5564702)
Try just lowering the back a 1/2 coil. It won't hurt your ability to load it up. Unless you plan on sticking like a half a ton of bricks in there or something. And at that point, you'd want overload springs (cut down) with stiffer shocks anyway.
I used to load my Beige Against the Machine wagon to the gills with swap meet parts. Never had a problem. And it started out lower than yours, I believe.

These cars wander like **** without enough caster. If you really want to keep the rake, get aftermarket camber plates so that you can wank a bunch of additional caster into the car.

Very helpful. Beautiful car. Thank you.


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