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-   -   The $700 1988 245 (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=328834)

57plymouth 02-25-2017 08:59 PM

I bet you have a vacuum leak, causing your recirculation issue AND your misfire issue. Once you bite the bullet and dig into the dash far enough, you will find whatever actuator is leaking vacuum. Any vacuum leak will affect engine performance.

Cwazywazy 02-25-2017 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57plymouth (Post 5567100)
I bet you have a vacuum leak, causing your recirculation issue AND your misfire issue. Once you bite the bullet and dig into the dash far enough, you will find whatever actuator is leaking vacuum. Any vacuum leak will affect engine performance.

I know there's a vac leak, and I know the recirc actuator is leaking vacuum but even with the recirc button pushed (Blocks off vacuum from the line) the engine still has issues indicating a vac leak. So there's probably a bigger one somewhere.

57plymouth 02-26-2017 09:07 AM

Try disconnecting the vacuum for the HVAC from the engine and capping it. Then run the car and see if the problem goes away. You still have a HVAC problem, but it will tell you if you have an engine problem.

Cwazywazy 02-26-2017 11:22 PM

So I took a look at my ECUs. The one in the car has 740 turbo written on it and the number is 0 280 000541 but my 780 ECU has the same number. I thought that since the Bertone allowed overboost it would have a different ECU? Is it known how much boost this ECU can handle? I think it has brown top injectors.

Cwazywazy 02-27-2017 06:04 PM

So the dying issue is only after it fully warms up, if that means anything. Also I cannot figure out how I broke the speedo. It stopped working after I fixed the blower but I can't find anything out of place in that area.

Cwazywazy 02-27-2017 06:12 PM

Also my air scoop went missing. I assume it flew off on the highway when I was testing the turbo...

I don't think I'll be getting that back a second time.

oldnfast 02-27-2017 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwazywazy (Post 5567548)
So I took a look at my ECUs. The one in the car has 740 turbo written on it and the number is 0 280 000541 but my 780 ECU has the same number. I thought that since the Bertone allowed overboost it would have a different ECU? Is it known how much boost this ECU can handle? I think it has brown top injectors.

Just for the hell of it,try swapping the ecu's.usually ecu's either work or don't,however I had intermident stall issues on my last 945 turbo.it turned out to be the ecu,I think it was even a 541.

Cwazywazy 02-27-2017 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldnfast (Post 5568045)
Just for the hell of it,try swapping the ecu's.usually ecu's either work or don't,however I had intermident stall issues on my last 945 turbo.it turned out to be the ecu,I think it was even a 541.

Already did, made zero difference. Next step is to test for vac leaks.

Cwazywazy 02-28-2017 09:12 PM

Sprayed carb cleaner around all the vac lines and injectors. Nothing. Noticed zero change in idle.

Cwazywazy 03-01-2017 03:27 PM

This is getting frustrating. Can't find any vac leaks whatsoever and I replaced the weird single wire o2 sensor (which was twisted together in the middle after it got cut somehow) which made zero difference.

I got a new dashcam today and tested it. At the start the engine dies and I pop the clutch to restart it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vK5y_VcPL20" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

EDIT: Also tried a spare MAF. The first one I tried was labeled "fuel injection corporation" and made it run super rich. Then I tried a Bosch and that works fine, but it made no difference to the dying problem. I think the next thing to look into is the IAC. Also swapped the steering wheels. "Racing" wheels don't belong in a 240.

Cwazywazy 03-02-2017 06:12 PM

I think replacing the MAF may have fixed the high RPM issue. At least it hasn't happened since I replaced it. The dying at idle issue still persists. I've already tested/replaced the MAF, IAC, ECU, o2, and checked for vac leaks. There might still be a leak, need to cap off the HVAC like 57plymouth said and test.

What could cause the idle to dip and sometimes die after letting off the gas when the engine is fully warmed up? It drives 100% fine when it's not warmed up yet and it only happens when the RPMs are dropping to idle speed.

Cwazywazy 03-05-2017 02:23 PM

I dynod it because why not. Put on a boost controller and turned it up slightly so it was making 9psi max.

https://s25.postimg.org/oc73kcbn3/IM...305_113517.jpg

https://s25.postimg.org/6nfcspzvz/r_SFa_ZYY.png

175HP and 235FT LBs. I'm happy with that.

I only recorded the first run which was kinda messed up. Only made 150.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/R9XTpA4iIyA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

amerbritcan 03-06-2017 01:36 AM

Not bad numbers at all for a basic +T. Impressive

Cwazywazy 03-07-2017 09:22 PM

If I whip the steering wheel one way something clunks and then the steering wheel is a little off center. If I whip it the other way it then clunks and goes straight. wtf.

Cwazywazy 03-08-2017 12:48 AM

Is swapping to EZK ignition worth it? I have almost everything I'd need, I think.

57plymouth 03-08-2017 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwazywazy (Post 5572970)
If I whip the steering wheel one way something clunks and then the steering wheel is a little off center. If I whip it the other way it then clunks and goes straight. wtf.

Steering shaft worn out?

Cwazywazy 03-12-2017 09:21 PM

Okay so now it's making 5psi max with or without a boost controller when it used to make 6-7 without. Boost leak?

Cwazywazy 03-21-2017 09:36 PM

I've been doing some minor stuff. Today I replaced the oil drain hose and changed with Rotella 5w40 synthetic. Put on a quality boost controller and it's currently at 11psi. Pulls hard, I love it. Interior is pretty much fixed up, just need to fix the drivers seat and figure out what to do with the boost gauge since I want an oil pressure gauge. Also recently did the tailgate harnesses, so that crap works now. And I did a crappy eBay catch can install which isn't pictured. Just ziptied to the clutch cable next to the brake booster and venting to atmosphere. Better than getting oil on my valve cover, I guess.

https://s25.postimg.org/meq5ravov/IM...315_133528.jpg
https://s25.postimg.org/r1w7t2j1r/IM...319_170111.jpg

Cwazywazy 03-25-2017 04:52 PM

https://s25.postimg.org/uvm1erldb/IM...325_135635.jpg

esmth 03-25-2017 05:24 PM

not even broken in yet

Cwazywazy 03-27-2017 05:37 PM

I think my rear main seal is leaking. Goddamn it.

At least the underside is well rust proofed now.. And the driveway..

Cwazywazy 04-14-2017 04:53 PM

RMS is done and it's driveable again, but I think it's safe to say my oil box might be slightly clogged..

https://s25.postimg.org/qvs7odi3z/IM...414_145605.jpg

I broke off a piece of the oil cap seal to provide a way for the pressure to get out so I wouldn't blow any more seals on my way home. Oil box is sitting with degreaser inside it right now.

Redwood Chair 04-14-2017 04:54 PM

Or pull the dipstick up a bit...

Cwazywazy 04-14-2017 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair (Post 5595159)
Or pull the dipstick up a bit...

:grrr:

Now, where can I get a new oil cap seal?

Redwood Chair 04-14-2017 05:04 PM

JY, FCP, dealer, ect

Or post in wanted if you're too cheap to pay corporate shipping.


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