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How do you remove a M47 shift knob?

H

HatredSerge

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Location
The 914
I need to replace my torn up shift boot.

I cant for the life of me figure out getting the shift knob off because I am a moron. Im not sure if its just a matter of pure torque and pull hard off or of there is a little pin inside connected to the Lockout that I need to mitigate? Is it threaded? Im getting conflicting opinions online. Halp im a n00b!

How does one remove it properly? +244 punk points if you can point me in the right direction
 
ZVOLV said:
Open end wrench under it and hammer. (Thanks Philski)
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Wrong. Grab knob with both hands and pull using forearm strength. Proceed to let fists full of knob fly at full force straight to your nose.

If successful, nosebleed will result.
 
I broke a $500 windshield with my elbow using brute man-strength with that method. I recommend caution.
 
Were your guys' shift knobs stuck on with crazy glue? Mine came off with a little brute force, but not enough to break windows or the need to use a hammer.
 
Use an open-end wrench, but, instead of hammering like you would with an Aw7x shift knob, pry upward against the knob with the end of the wrench pushing downward against the lockout ring. Don't pry downward, otherwise, you'll break the lockout ring. This is the only correct way to remove the pre-1981 knobs and also the way to do it when you have a 1981-on knob that seems to be uninterested in coming off the lever. When the rubber grip on the knobs gets so worn that it slides off the inner collar, you're going to have to use the wrench trick to get the collar loose.

-J
 
The worst one I had was a knob that separated from the inner plastic sleeve. That ish was frozen to the shifter. So I got out the dremel and cut the plastic sleeve off the shifter.
 
wyatt8740 said:
Just pull. Pull harder if it doesn't come off.
Mine has come off in my hand while driving if I'm too forceful. It shouldn't be that tricky... I think.
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I bet the inner hard plastic collar is cracking. Mine started doing that, then it cracked all the way thru and the knob would come off in my hand every 1st - 2nd shift.
 
tintintin said:
I bet the inner hard plastic collar is cracking. Mine started doing that, then it cracked all the way thru and the knob would come off in my hand every 1st - 2nd shift.
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Agreed, it probably is.
But since that car got wrecked and I haven't swapped its M47 into my new '93 wagon yet (pending my obtaining a manual wagon rear end) it's gone down on my list of priorities for the moment.

Gotta fix the exhaust and A/C on this wagon first :-|
 
^You can use the M47 with the autotragic rear end in the car. It'll just have the 240 Turbo M46 gearing. And, unlike a 240 Turbo, since the speedometer is electronic, there won't be any change in the speedometer's reading.

-J
 
John242Ti said:
^You can use the M47 with the autotragic rear end in the car. It'll just have the 240 Turbo M46 gearing. And, unlike a 240 Turbo, since the speedometer is electronic, there won't be any change in the speedometer's reading.

-J
Click to expand...

I want good fuel economy; thanks, though.
(It's a daily driver.)

And the _actual_ problem is apparently (according to a mechanic friend who worked at a volvo dealership for 20-odd years) that the wagons use a different driveshaft than the sedans. My M47's from a 244.
 
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wyatt8740 said:
I want good fuel economy; thanks, though.
(It's a daily driver.)

And the _actual_ problem is apparently (according to a mechanic friend who worked at a volvo dealership for 20-odd years) that the wagons use a different driveshaft than the sedans. My M47's from a 244.
Click to expand...


They don't in actuality. There is zero difference, driveshaft-wise, and rear axle-wise between a 242/244 and a 245, especially after 1984, when everything went to the large shaft. Both of my last Aw71 to M46 swaps used 242 driveshafts. Both cars were wagons.

There are differences due to whether the car has a redblock, a D24, or a PRV, as well as whether it has a M45, M46, M47, Aw/Bw55, or Aw70/71. 140's, yes, there was a difference between sedans and wagons. Easily fixed by changing the flange on the rear axle. Usually, sedans used the 1140 shaft with small flanges, and the wagons used the 1310 shaft with large flanges, which eventually became known as the Type 3 shaft used on all 1985-on 240s, with a finer spline where the two halves meet.

Also, fuel economy with a 3.73 and a B230F+M47 combo is 26-29 mpg anyway. Friend of mine with an '86 that he swapped from an Aw70 to a M47 gets 27 in mixed driving on E10 gas and breaks 30 mpg on E0 gas. Much better than the 17-25 mpg (29 if you drive at 60 mph with very light acceleration) with the Aw70. So, might as well swap over, then, when you find another 3.31 with the correct tone ring, swap that in for slower acceleration and a slight improvement in economy.
 
I think you gain about 600rpms more at cruse with a 3.73 vs 3.31. It might be a little buzzy with an M cam in there. But if you put a B or A cam in the engine then you'll probably get the same or better mileage with a nice improvement in highway torque.
 
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