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Getrag box in a volvo 240

2

240 Bach

New member
Joined
May 12, 2009
Anybody who has exsperians to install a ?getrag box in a volvo 240.
Witch chance has to be made? if you hav any pictures of that please come in
Best Regards
Mads:roll:
 
a name like Mads sounds kind of danish, scandinavian - ordering stuff from RSI or finding a T5 may not be easy for the OP.

Find en M90 gearkasse, de er ca. en mulliard trillioner gange bedre end de der getrag spasserkasser man skal bruge en masse underlige adaptore til at faa til at virke ordentligt.

:D
 
1. You need a custom drive shaft front piece. Have one made and use a BMW M5 rubber guibo.
2. The BMW E28 shifter presumably works. I made a custom thing altogether.
3. You need a Volvo M46/M47 bellhousing
4. You need an adapter plate that goes between the bellhousing and the Getrag
5. It is wise to use a centering ring that centers the bellhousing and the Getrag together. The correct measurements are 72/56mm and 8,4mm thick.
6. You need a correct pilot bearing. SKF has the one you need in their line up. I do not have the part number here, but you will find in their lists. It's actually a cam roller.
7. You need to modify the transmission cross member.
8. I used a flat flywheel and a BMW sport pressure plate. You can use a Volvo pressure plate as well, and the dished flywheel too. But you need to have a clutch disc with BMW splines in it.
9. I modified the clutch fork so that the BMW throwout bearing fits in it.
10. You need to enlarge the opening in the Volvo bellhousing for the Getrag's main shaft.

And the Getrag i used was a Getrag 265. It is the "big" getrag with a detachable bellhousing. FOund on early E28 BMW 5-series cars and on some 6-series cars as well.

EDIT: Here are a few old pics of the parts:

get1.jpg


get2.jpg


get3.jpg


get4.jpg


get5.jpg


get6.jpg
 
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?HRR , Manner.....flere Danskere !
I havent really read about the m90 , is it an ok box in a 240 ?
 
viking20 said:
?HRR , Manner.....flere Danskere !
I havent really read about the m90 , is it an ok box in a 240 ?
Click to expand...

Well, yes it is!

To fit an M90 in a 200-series car you need to do the following:

1. You need a custom front piece for the drive shaft. Use the BMW M5 guibo again!
2. You need a custom/modified transmission cross member
3. You need to get the hydraulic clutch main cylinder and slave cylinder from a 6-cylinder 260 or from 700- or 900-series Volvo
4. You need to modify the clutch pedal for the hydro clutch stuff, or use a clutch pedal assembly from a 260 with a hydro clutch
4. You need to modify the shifter (Shorten) or make a new one
5. You DO NOT need any pilot bearings!
6. You SHOULD weld the stop ring that is found under the 3rd gear, Directions for that can be found on this board. This is not mandatory though.
7. You do not need any adapter plates, the M90 bolts right in as long as it is from a 4-cylinder car
8. You need to massage the transmission tunnel slightly with a big hammer
9. Again you can use just about any flywheel and pressure plate you want to, but easiest is to use the huge and heavy dished flywheel, a Sachs Sport pressure plate and a 228mm clutch disc from a Volvo 850. I used a BMW M3 pressure plate again, and a custom sintered puck disc with Volvo M90 splines in it.
 
For all you cheap folk who like doing stuff twice:

I did a getrag swap about as cheap as can be done for under 500 bones with a free transmission and made everything I could myself.

Any gearbox swap (apart from a stock volvo) requires the same basic stuff:
Driveline, mount, shifter, clutch, pilot bearing, centering device on BH and BH (or motor) adaptor.

To really enjoy it in a street car (or nastier), a good clutch, good adaptor, and rebuilt driveline with update 740 center support are all welcome upgrades whatever gearbox it uses. All of which adds some cost and time and thinking.

Getrags are a little more involved to rebuild, but a much better transmission than a T5. No ifs ands or buts about it.

The right T5s have closer ratios out of the box, no guibo on all apps (something that is a rather nice luxury...tho M5 units or other getrags can be had without those things) etc.

Getrags are stronger, better designed, more compact, better for shifter adaptation (external linkage), lighter, and can be had with decent ratios in OD form to quite good ratios in close ratio form. More parts mix and match for getrags and that is done overseas more often, just not as commonly stateside.

Each has its place. I've done both. Pay a little more now to intelligently sort a CR or OD getrag and you start out higher on the food chain with soemthing that shifts nice. If you sort it with the above things nice, the percentage difference is not wild. I wouldn't bother with a T5 anymore for most apps.

M90 in a 240 is not a direct swap. M90 has its own baggage...though is ironically made by getrag. I find it strange to use a FWD box in a RWD really given the design, but they work pretty nice.
 
that's the beauty....we havent ever broke a gearset in a getrag...even up to 475rwhp ;) And when it costs $1100 to do a swap RIGHT....$150 isnt much. So whether you want a T5 or a getrag the costs are pretty much the same.
 
Stereophile33 said:
that's the beauty....we havent ever broke a gearset in a getrag...even up to 475rwhp ;) And when it costs $1100 to do a swap RIGHT....$150 isnt much. So whether you want a T5 or a getrag the costs are pretty much the same.
Click to expand...

because there people that use different gear ratios for different tracks... some people use there car for more then D.D. i do this for a living and for some people it isent about breaking parts it about efficiency
 
With the right axle ratio and most of the streetable sohc volvo engine, either gearbox will treat you well for most driving. The engine/driveline only works as well as the system works.

Put some wacky ass tires, axle ratio, gearset choice, and engine (which in of itself is it's own combination of parts) and expect it to be geared for X while trying to do Y and it will always fail to do the most it can. Hard to convey that on a piece of paper.

Turbo street cars with M46s and stock getrag ratios seem to like 3.31s and 3.54s a lot in my experience.

With a T5, I'd get the closest drop gear ratio to make the thing as strong as possible (they aren't much stronger than an M46D with good bearings) and use a 4.10 in a turbo SOHC street car. (this is with street of fairly average size rally tires I'm talking here). Were it not for the ratios and 4.10 axle ratio that oft complements a T5 (effectively making the T5 stronger), I wouldn't even bother with one over an M46. Most M46s are old neglected POS things that break real easy...they aren't exactly strong to begin with, but they were rated at 292ftlbs...pretty close to most T5s when new.

I also view T5s like most stock domestic junk...junk. Sure, if done up nice it works nice. But like many things domestic, the aftermarket is huge and awesome, and stock is often pretty much the suck. In most things well made and foreign, stock (with some sorting and tasteful enhancement) is great for a lot of uses and the aftermarket sucks. Variants on the basic getrag 26x are used in all kinds of race cars...the info isn't as common knowledge, but it is out there. In europe, I think you'd be nothing short of nuts to use a T5 over getrag ...not when so many cars some with the CR getrag and various OD getrags. Shipping an adapter plate is not a huge item anyway...try shipping a T5.
 
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CannonballSDL said:
because there people that use different gear ratios for different tracks... some people use there car for more then D.D. i do this for a living and for some people it isent about breaking parts it about efficiency
Click to expand...

good thing we are in the business then....I don't have any customers with track cars that would actually live with a T5. They would break them ALL. Now a TKO 600 you bet, oh or how about those doug nash 5 speeds and ROD 6 speeds we did some adapters for a customers. Now we are talking about some transmissions, but some guy with 450rwhp aint gonna be changing gears in his T5 because they are going to be spat out all over the track.

T5's are great for an upgraded street car. Hell the getrag barely survives the track, but lets not kid around here...anyone who is serious about gearing....isnt messing with either of these transmissions, but I have only a handful of customers willing to shell out for TKO600 Doug Nash 5-speed or muncie T-10 or ROD.


ask John Lane about efficiency. Getting a DNF....isnt efficient no matter how well its geared.
 
ask Mark James in his 563 rwhp 8v car.. He had a DNF at a SCCA double points RR event in his SPM car when his g-force T5 went splat.

but again what do I know apparently T5's are the sh!t for road racing.
 
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and steve smith did this...


i really dont care, i kno people that use T5 and like them. and i guess you dont... maybe its a east coast Vs. west coast kinda thing.

my point to this n00b is that gears and parts for the T5 are cheap and this I prefer the T5. also i did point him to the info availably unlike your post! maybe you should stop name dropping (and number dropping) and walk away from this flame fest... like im doing.
 
Im just trying to say that both are good transmissions to a point. They both cost relatively the same to swap, and both work well in 240's on the street. Seemed you wanted to bring racing into the equation, so I did, hoping our experience would help. Agreed on the dropping the flame fest.

btw those names and numbers were to demonstrate that Im not just some guy who reads the interwebz...but someone who has at least a few of these swap in with customers and their experiences..
 
ok cool

last words on my behalf i wasent saying that there was a huge cost diff on the install side. i was talking about gears and other parts.

if your on latter i have some SCCA junk i wanna chat with u about.
 
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