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Atom's Amazon Wagon Project Update Thread

Straight from the motherland!!

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Thinking of doing non-traditional placements.

Every time I see the word "Amazon" in your post, my brain reads it as "Amazing". :)
 
I just wanna say, I stared at the hinge for the Taillight for a solid 30 seconds in awe! How'd you pull that off? I mean like, how did you fabricate those bends? That's some legit stuff right there! Helluva build man, helluva!
 
I just wanna say, I stared at the hinge for the Taillight for a solid 30 seconds in awe! How'd you pull that off? I mean like, how did you fabricate those bends? That's some legit stuff right there! Helluva build man, helluva!

Hinges are some of my favorite things to design and build. The motion you can get out of stuff by changing pivot points and arm lengths is super cool. I usually sketch up what I want it to look like closed and open then figure out how to make the transition. I use paper and push pins to test. Once I?ve got it figured out, I CAD it up and use my CNC router to do the hard part.
 
I figured it had to be something like that! Man, makes me want a CNC Router real bad. How much was yours? I've read multiple DIY projects on CNC stuff, but it's not my cup of tea. It'd be a fun skill to learn, but I might wait until this car is at least rolling before I commit to trying anything with that amount of stepper motoring/programming.

Any chance you can make a set of those LED taillight inserts for me?? I have lots of beer and some money to trade! Ha! I was really trying to think of a way to do LED taillights because I'm planning on doing LED headlights, but I just couldn't swing it myself. I guess having a CNC router opens up a ridiculous number of possibility!
 
I figured it had to be something like that! Man, makes me want a CNC Router real bad. How much was yours? I've read multiple DIY projects on CNC stuff, but it's not my cup of tea. It'd be a fun skill to learn, but I might wait until this car is at least rolling before I commit to trying anything with that amount of stepper motoring/programming.

Any chance you can make a set of those LED taillight inserts for me?? I have lots of beer and some money to trade! Ha! I was really trying to think of a way to do LED taillights because I'm planning on doing LED headlights, but I just couldn't swing it myself. I guess having a CNC router opens up a ridiculous number of possibility!

I spent in the neighborhood of $4k for mine. It?s pretty reasonably sized (24?x36?) with a water cooled spindle. There are definitely more expensive ones and less expensive ones.

I would do my taillights completely different if I were going to do it again. PM me and we can discuss.
 
At some point I'm hoping to be to the "bolt on" phase and out of the "engineer everything" phase.

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Subaru hood latch. Had to extend the E30 cable (E30 latch is on the driver’s side), extend the throw and add emergency access in case the cable breaks.

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Anyone a wheel/tire fitment expert? I’ve got a question I think I know the answer to, but need a second brain on it.
 
Older brother in the wheel/tire business for 45 years -- so I know a guy....

This is more of a geometry question than wheel/tire specific. Right now I?m running a 215/35/18 tire on a 18x7.5? wheel. When pointed straight there?s about 1/2? between the sidewall and the fender lip. At full lock there?s much less clearance, but that?s on the radius of the tire. My question is, if I widened the front wheel by 1/2?, but put 1/4? of that inboard and 1/4? outboard and kept the same tire (slightly stretched), would my tire to body clearances stay the same? Seeing as the tire tread width stays the same and the OD stays the same.
 
It would make sense to me that the corner (where the tread becomes the sidewall or whatever) of the tire would stay in relatively the same position so long as offset doesn't change. The closer you get to the wheel, the closer the tire gets to the body (obviously). I'd also assume that the OD of the tire would change slightly when the tire becomes stretched. Maybe not enough in this case to really mean anything though since it's only 1/2" over the whole tire. Like a 205 on a 7" wheel looks meatier than it does on an 8" wheel.
 
My resident wheel/tire fitment expert says he wouldn't expect significant movement out at the tread with a move from 7.5" to 8.5" and a 215 section tire PROVIDED you are certain about splitting the additional inch 50/50....
 
I think this tool will help you figure out the answer.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

I use something similar in an app, but it doesn't really pinpoint tire section width vs. rim width. This is a little better, but I don't see how the backspace can stay the same and the wheel still move .2" inboard

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My resident wheel/tire fitment expert says he wouldn't expect significant movement out at the tread with a move from 7.5" to 8.5" and a 215 section tire PROVIDED you are certain about splitting the additional inch 50/50....

it won't be exact, but close enough to still have clearance.

to me you'd want the whole inch inboard.

Theoretically, ideally, I'd move it 1/2 inboard and go with a 12mm wider tire to get exactly the same fitment. That said, at 1/4" further inboard I'd be hitting the strut tube. That's why I'm looking to get close to splitting the difference in/out. If I split the difference I can't really go wider on the tire. Unless I change the aspect to drop the OD down. The main clearance issue I see is at full lock. At full lock you're dealing with clearance as it relates more to the OD of the tire instead of the width, but I'd like to be as sure as possible. I dislike rubbing tires.
 
I use something similar in an app, but it doesn't really pinpoint tire section width vs. rim width. This is a little better, but I don't see how the backspace can stay the same and the wheel still move .2" inboard

You're subtracting 6mm of offset while adding 6mm of width on each side of the centerline. So your backspacing is the same and inboard edge stays in the same place. Wheel rim to body clearance on the outside edge will therefore be reduced as the outboard edge is pushed outwards by 12mm. By doing it this way you're adding all of your width to the outboard edge.

If you want to split the difference and move the inboard & outboard edges by the same amount, you'd want your new 8" wheel to have ET30 offset just like your old wheel. Distance from centerline to hub mounting face stays the same, and the wheel grows equally in either direction.
 
You're subtracting 6mm of offset while adding 6mm of width on each side of the centerline. So your backspacing is the same and inboard edge stays in the same place. Wheel rim to body clearance on the outside edge will therefore be reduced as the outboard edge is pushed outwards by 12mm. By doing it this way you're adding all of your width to the outboard edge.

If you want to split the difference and move the inboard & outboard edges by the same amount, you'd want your new 8" wheel to have ET30 offset just like your old wheel. Distance from centerline to hub mounting face stays the same, and the wheel grows equally in either direction.

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