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Old 01-30-2019, 01:27 AM   #1
Dumber than I look.
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Zealand
Default CD009 Swap Guide 7/900 Edition.

CD009 into 7/9 RedBlock.

Zero regret.

So this is actually a pretty simple swap once I had figured it all out, looking back on it.
The most expensive bit by far is the box itself, second for me was shipping. There is zero tunnel bashing required, and no cutting. In my country at least this means this is technically certification exempt.

There's a good write up on the Deeworks website that gives you a fairly good idea of what's involved. I personally recommend buying your adaptor bits from Roger Dee and Josh (Yoshifab) as the more money they make the more cool stuff they develop. (Currently there aren't other options anyway but mumma always said putting things on the internet is forever)

First things first you need to buy all your bits. I didnĀ’t buy all of this as most of it wasnĀ’t available when I started.

CD009- You want a CD009, there is plenty of info on what they come in on other forums. I got mine out of a 2008 370z try avoid pre 06 VQ 6speed gearboxes? Etc. as they have weaker synchro’s apparently.
CD009 Driveshaft Yoke- these are pretty expensive but thereĀ’s no way around it. Update:
DeeWorks KIT- Just buy everything you can from him, it will make your life easier.
Yoshifab Clutch Kit- any one of the upgrade kits that he sells and ask for the Nissan splined pressure plate.
Cross member Adaptor- this is going to have to be a DIY job for now, I will attach a drawing to take down to your local engineer or I could draw it up on AutoCAD if thereĀ’s enough people keen, though I assume a company will start making them now thereĀ’s a drawing out.
Shifter- I made my own Turbobricks AF shifter, but hereĀ’s a few options that look like they will work. There are also EBay options but you will need to buy a common swap kit judging by the location of shifter, the Collins one is where mine is.

Cut bell housing behind the last rib on the BH if itĀ’s not obvious there are loads of YouTube videos out there etc. And the info with the plate explains it.
Then cut the small amount of the end of the input shaft as itĀ’s too long. I believe I cut off 8mm but I canĀ’t quite remember (itĀ’s in the print out with the plate anyway)
Clean your mess and clean it well make sure itĀ’s all deburred while youĀ’re at it because we might be sketchy but we arenĀ’t savages.

When you pull the front bearing cover off you will remember you havenĀ’t drained the oil yet as two of the lower bolts are straight through and retain fluid. Bribe your mate not to tell anyone and clean up ready to install your fancy billet piece.
Follow the instructions provided which may or may not give a torque spec? I do remember torqueing it properly though, bolt on your bell housing and admire.

For the clutch I got my flywheel and stock pressure plate machined and bought a KA24DE clutch disk. It cost me next to nothing for the disk but it all but it has started slipping if I floor it on the highway in 6th. I would highly recommend a stronger kit from Yoshifab or talk to your local clutch shop as it looks like I will be getting a custom one made. Though this is a cheap way to get running if you donĀ’t beat it crazy hard.

For the install I found it all really easy in the end. The factory m46 cross member can be used just bolt it back up in the second set of holes further down the chassis. I believe these were for the automatic cars. I made a small steel adaptor plate to work with the Chevy polly mount that Roger Dee suggests.

I will attach drawings of the plate I made.

For the driveshaft it ended up costing me about 1k NZD (with new hangar bearing and balance), the yolk for the Nissan is insanely expensive mine cost over 300nzd landed. I used a 1350 as it was the only one I could get in my Hemisphere and worked out only a few shekels more (The 1350 doesnĀ’t really fit in the Factory tail shaft housing on the G/Box, and is noisy af to start with. However, mine self-clearanced in under 1000miles, you could also file a bit off the edges of the yoke easily, I was lazy.) They didnĀ’t need to change the length of the driveshaft, they cut the Volvo flange off and welded the yoke back on, it ended up being perfect length already if cut just after the weld.

I made my own shifter, itĀ’s pretty rough but it works well. There are options out there that work, like the serial9 but they are pricy. There is a cheap 240sx cd009 shifter on eBay that does look like it will fit. So consider that also. I run no reverse lock out as it automatically locks out pretty much as soon as you start moving and well before you look for 4th or 6th so donĀ’t believe the hype.

That’s pretty much it I am happy to answer questions, it drives great and I can row the gears quicker than anything I have ever driven before. Though it was expensive and cost 4 times what my car did I have zero regrets, absolutely transformed the car.

Mine has 3.73 gears atm. Would maybe go 3.5ish but I am going to be drag racing it so I'll see how quick I can shift as it sits. Currently the car sits at 2600ish rpm at 65mph in 6th.

Don't think just do it.
1992 945 Turbo CD009
1979 244 GLE - the ladys car
1989 745 Turbo -Swapped for a KP61 starlet
1985 360 - Crushed
1990 740 GLE 16V - Crushed
1990 740 Turbo - Crushed
1972 164 - Mid Resto

1992 Nissan GTIR pulsar. - likely my coffin.

Last edited by JohnMc; 01-31-2019 at 08:04 PM..
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