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Splash pan...worth it?

Yeah... good luck getting them out of there without droping the pan.

Pretty easy to do when you use your Magic Wand.

magnetic-retriever.jpg
 
I'm dealing with that issue currently. Volvo champ is all this snow, but I feel my alternator took all the pain.

Yeah I learned my lesson on the 2nd 240 I ever owned. I went through several alternators before figuring it out. The kick up from the road also put a lot of wear and tear on the wires that run from the alternator to the driver's side of the car.
Even if you get an inexpensive one like this, http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/4279/Engine-Belly-Pan-1382407/#axzz2ugHC0hNN , you'll be doing yourself a service. The price is so low that you may find it worth while to snag one of these new ones instead of salvaging one. I bought one of those URO brands years ago and it has held up great. Very thick. A pain to line up. I wound up cutting slots for the holes so I could shift it around for fit. I also bought my own bolts/washers for mounting. Went with a nice wide washer and a length about 5mm shorter than what is usually sold as "belly pan mounting bolts".
 
6x1x 25 or better, don't forget the fender washers...

This is the right size, the 6 x 1.25 recommendation is bunk.
My practice was to install studs for the rear 3 locations, slightly filing the slots in the pan for easy insertion, then using M6x1 stainless bolts for the front locations. One hand locates the pan on the 3 studs, the other threads a front bolt or two in, less chance of cross-threading a relatively fine-thread fastener.

Fender washers recommendation seconded, and I used stainless lockwashers as well.

Soon I'll be wearing a belt and suspenders...

MSCDirect.com for the stainless 6x1 threaded rod and "heavy" nuts to make your own long studs for the rear locations. Works "a treat."
 
Yeah I learned my lesson on the 2nd 240 I ever owned. I went through several alternators before figuring it out. The kick up from the road also put a lot of wear and tear on the wires that run from the alternator to the driver's side of the car.
Even if you get an inexpensive one like this, http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/4279/Engine-Belly-Pan-1382407/#axzz2ugHC0hNN , you'll be doing yourself a service. The price is so low that you may find it worth while to snag one of these new ones instead of salvaging one. I bought one of those URO brands years ago and it has held up great. Very thick. A pain to line up. I wound up cutting slots for the holes so I could shift it around for fit. I also bought my own bolts/washers for mounting. Went with a nice wide washer and a length about 5mm shorter than what is usually sold as "belly pan mounting bolts".

I'll most likely try my local PnP. If I come up empty handed I'll just get the IPD one

edit: I wonder if it would be beneficial to hit a cheap plastic one with some bedliner to toughen it up. I'm sure the the right hardware it would hold
 
you win when the lights flicker and the belts squeal

I remember last year when it was flooding here a lot. On the way home one day traffic was all messed up because the streets had a lot of water on them. I took the right lane to get around a few folks and then saw the voltmeter dip down and heard the belts squeal. But I did make it home at least. That splash pan might just have helped.
 
Another benefit of using a splash pan is that you can tell by glancing at the top of the pan whether coolant (or other fluids, god help you) are leaking out of the front of the engine compartment.

Typically a quick look gives me early warning that I have a weeping water pump or radiator issue.
 
With the IPD pan I think I'm going to put some sound deadner on the inside. I can only imagine how loud it'll be

I don't hear mine, but I did screw a 6" x 6" piece of 1/2" plywood to the back of it between it and the crossmember, so I can jack the car up by the tail of it without bending it.
 
This is the right size, the 6 x 1.25 recommendation is bunk.
My practice was to install studs for the rear 3 locations, slightly filing the slots in the pan for easy insertion, then using M6x1 stainless bolts for the front locations. One hand locates the pan on the 3 studs, the other threads a front bolt or two in, less chance of cross-threading a relatively fine-thread fastener.

Fender washers recommendation seconded, and I used stainless lockwashers as well.

Soon I'll be wearing a belt and suspenders...

MSCDirect.com for the stainless 6x1 threaded rod and "heavy" nuts to make your own long studs for the rear locations. Works "a treat."

I kinda like this idea. Have you ever ripped a chunk out of your scalp or shoulder on one of these slipping under the crossmember with the pan off? Or do you have a lift to work under?
 
not yet

I kinda like this idea. Have you ever ripped a chunk out of your scalp or shoulder on one of these slipping under the crossmember with the pan off? Or do you have a lift to work under?

No lift here, and it's only been this way for 6 months or so, but you can choose how far down you want the studs to extend...I bought 3' of stainless threaded rod from MSC, cut thrice after measuring once, and the studs only have to manage a nut, a stainless fender washer, and the thickness of the pan...If you reinstalled the bolts just to not lose them after removing the pan, they'd probably hang down the same amount. You could make them even longer, cap them with rubber caps, then reinstall the rubber caps when the pan is removed for the true safety zealot.
 
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