Mr. V
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Location
- Portland, Oregon metro
Yeah... good luck getting them out of there without droping the pan.
Pretty easy to do when you use your Magic Wand.
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here
Thank you for being a part of our community!
Yeah... good luck getting them out of there without droping the pan.
I'm dealing with that issue currently. Volvo champ is all this snow, but I feel my alternator took all the pain.
6x1x 25 or better, don't forget the fender washers...
Yeah I learned my lesson on the 2nd 240 I ever owned. I went through several alternators before figuring it out. The kick up from the road also put a lot of wear and tear on the wires that run from the alternator to the driver's side of the car.
Even if you get an inexpensive one like this, http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/4279/Engine-Belly-Pan-1382407/#axzz2ugHC0hNN , you'll be doing yourself a service. The price is so low that you may find it worth while to snag one of these new ones instead of salvaging one. I bought one of those URO brands years ago and it has held up great. Very thick. A pain to line up. I wound up cutting slots for the holes so I could shift it around for fit. I also bought my own bolts/washers for mounting. Went with a nice wide washer and a length about 5mm shorter than what is usually sold as "belly pan mounting bolts".
you win when the lights flicker and the belts squeal
With the IPD pan I think I'm going to put some sound deadner on the inside. I can only imagine how loud it'll be
With the IPD pan I think I'm going to put some sound deadner on the inside. I can only imagine how loud it'll be
Why would it be loud?
I've had a few of them, never noticed it making any noise.
This is the right size, the 6 x 1.25 recommendation is bunk.
My practice was to install studs for the rear 3 locations, slightly filing the slots in the pan for easy insertion, then using M6x1 stainless bolts for the front locations. One hand locates the pan on the 3 studs, the other threads a front bolt or two in, less chance of cross-threading a relatively fine-thread fastener.
Fender washers recommendation seconded, and I used stainless lockwashers as well.
Soon I'll be wearing a belt and suspenders...
MSCDirect.com for the stainless 6x1 threaded rod and "heavy" nuts to make your own long studs for the rear locations. Works "a treat."
I just figured the stainless might intensify engine noise
Hello beautiful
I kinda like this idea. Have you ever ripped a chunk out of your scalp or shoulder on one of these slipping under the crossmember with the pan off? Or do you have a lift to work under?
It's aluminum.