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1995 940 turbo *longterm* daily driver

Realy nice car you got there. :)

Are you satisfied with the do88 intercooler? I'm thinking about get one myself.
 
Realy nice car you got there. :)

Are you satisfied with the do88 intercooler? I'm thinking about get one myself.

I haven't driven the car more than around the block after the install. But the quality and fitment is great so far. It is super heavy. And big. It fit perfectly within the brackets like stock. I don't know how much performance increase would be felt on my 13c but will report after swapping water pumps and driving more.
 
I also installed kaplhenke's panhard bar. It is a very nice piece as well. I only got it bolted on. I still intend to cut another coil out back and roll some fenders as it's not even with the front. I'll adjust it more afterward.

<a href="http://imgur.com/OKAUrb3"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/OKAUrb3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/cq71QmR"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/cq71QmRl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

No pictures installed because I only ever finish what I'm working on when it's pitch black outside.
 
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Today, a buddy and I got a new hepu water pump installed along with a new thermostat. Everything seemingly is leak free. *Crosses fingers* I also got another coil cut out back to better match the front ride height and adjusted the panhard bar to match. I've got to get my eastwood roller back from a friend... The fenders have to be rolled. They are just about sitting on the tires right now.
 
Got my eastwood roller back but ended up using a bar and then baseball bat method anyways. They came out nice and smooth and no rubbing at all. The panhard bar is adjusted just right and I like the ride height.

<a href="http://imgur.com/ypDR0Il"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/ypDR0Ill.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/HE2NJrr"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/HE2NJrrl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Intercooler is good to go but can't tell much difference at this level. I am smelling a burning smell when I get into boost hard. I noticed my windshield wiper fluid is leaking. Lots of little things now. And hopefully some driving.

Edit:: and both back doors don't open since swapping to new door handles...? Front driver's side door opens fine after the swap. Front passenger side didn't get swapped because I broke a bolt in the new one. Sucks to suck.
 
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So, the day after my last post, I woke up excited to drive my car to work. My trip is about 30 miles each way. I was about half way there and my oil pressure light blinked for a split second under hard breaking. A couple miles later, it blinked on again. I started watching my gauge and i wasn't getting over 2 bar... I eventually rolled into my parking lot at work with very low oil pressure at idle but no bad noises. Disappointed and frustrated and scared, I popped the hood. The dipstick showed no oil (actually ended up having maybe a quart or more left). I couldn't find any obvious place where all of my oil could have leaked out to, but the turbo side was oily. I had her towed home in sorrow.

I decided to rip apart the entire turbo side of the engine and fix all of my oil leak problems once and for all. Progress has been/will be very slow but the plan is to reassemble with a straight flange 16t since everything is apart. Today, I discovered the oil pressure sender itself (which someone had suggested to me earlier :oops:) was cracked all the way around. I sincerely hope replacing this remedies all of my oil leaking issues that I thought had been the filter relocation arm. It's difficult to see in the picture.


<a href="http://imgur.com/Dvc9o1K"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/Dvc9o1Kl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Along the way, I'll (hopefully) be porting the 90+ and installing stainless -an lines for oil feed and return. I also got yoshifabs 10an return fitting installed in the block. Following the instructions made install a breeze.

<a href="http://imgur.com/83ytpqk"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/83ytpqkl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

My theory is the oil pressure sender was leaking at higher rpms. It was leaking onto the water pipe hence all the dirtiness in that area. Then ran onto the oil cooler hoses and to the sandwich plate/filter/etc. I was mislead, or so I hope, thinking the relocating arm was not sealing.

**Where can one source a new oil pressure sender?
 
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Intercooler is good to go but can't tell much difference at this level. I am smelling a burning smell when I get into boost hard. I noticed my windshield wiper fluid is leaking. Lots of little things now. And hopefully some driving.

Keep it up, the car looks great! You'll get it sorted out before long
 
Keep it up, the car looks great! You'll get it sorted out before long

looks good


Thank you guys. It definitely will get squared away at some point. I'm determined with this car. I'm a new dad and a new homeowner on one income so progress is slow in the time and money departments. I did, however, order the new oil pressure sender referenced in this thread in case anyone stumbles across this via searching:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=331070

Once that comes in, the side of the block will get a good cleaning and it'll slowly get put back together.
 
Got the new oil pressure sender installed as well as the oil feed line. Cleaned the block pretty well to hopefully quickly identify any oil leaks. This was just while the baby napped.

Tomorrow I'm going to try to get my hands on some new gaskets for the oil cooler system and get that bolted back on. Then I can focus on getting the 90+ ported and the 16t situated.
 
Spent an hour or so out there wrenching today. Got new gin-u-wine Volvo gaskets and bolted the oil cooler back together. I also slotted the 90+ support bracket and bolted it to the block.

I got the downpipe unbolted. I started trying to pull the studs out of the 16t hotside. Two came out easily; I was impressed. On the third, the stud broke. Hopefully I can get a buddy to get these last three studs out of the hotside and also to weld up a v band to that and the downpipe. I'm ready to get this thing together.
 
Don't know how I missed this but looking great. It going to be interesting how the m-47 holds up. But 2.4, 3.31 it should be great on the MPG
 
Had some time off today and spent it working on the car. I'm still figuring out how to get my hotside squared away, so that's got me stuck. I put all the timing components back together. I kept the cam advanced 2.5?. I also notched the top cover so I didn't have to take the water pump pulley off to get the cover off.

<a href="http://imgur.com/lJfVxl1"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/lJfVxl1l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

After that, I took the 13c off the manifold and did this:


<a href="http://imgur.com/FzZRgWi"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/FzZRgWil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/VZhxlBw"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/VZhxlBwl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


This is my first time "porting" anything. It came out well enough I think. Tomorrow I'm gonna hog out the 16t hot side a little. It'll have to flow better than stock, yes?
 
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I bolted the exhaust manifold up with fresh gaskets. Got the crank pulley installed along with all the accessory belts tensioned correctly. I also put new terminals on the wires that go to the oil pressure sender and got that squared away. Literally the only thing holding me up is getting this 16t squared away.
 
If you pulled the HB off the crank, take care with that centre bolt. IIRC, you must torque to a set point (say 125#-ft) and then pull it another angular rotation. It takes a LOT of leverage to get this done..... I put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Measure twice, cut once........
 
If you pulled the HB off the crank, take care with that centre bolt. IIRC, you must torque to a set point (say 125#-ft) and then pull it another angular rotation. It takes a LOT of leverage to get this done..... I put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Measure twice, cut once........

I put the car in fourth gear and put my weight behind it. I probably should put a pipe on there just to make certain it's there. I'll do some research into the torque specs.
 
Probably set a record for longest length of time for a 16t swap, probably 4 months. But it is finally running in the car.

I sent my straight flange housing to a board member to weld a v band to it for me. I haven't heard from him now in three weeks so I can only assume it is a lost cause. So that's what's held me up the last month.

I ended up grabbing a conical housing from a buddy and slapped it on my 16t turbo. It had more play than I would like, but seems to be boosting with no issue. I clocked it, bolted it on, and got all my flexible stainless lines situated. The only problem I ran into was that I had to move the oil filter relocation arm up a smidge since the yoshifab oil return fitting and line went directly toward the oil filter.

After I got everything together, I poured oil in the car. I filled the overflow tank up with coolant. I pulled the coil wire off and cranked the car a couple times to get the oil flowing. I plugged the coil wire back in and was happy to see her fire up easily and idle nicely. I learned afterward, that I should have filled the block up with coolant through the radiator hose because the car began to overheat. It wouldn't suck the coolant down quickly enough. That was quickly remedies and now she seems to be holding temp just fine.

Now for the real problems. I am still smelling oil burning somewhere, though I see no obvious leaks. What a drag. I need to get under the car with a light and investigate farther.

The other problem is on the wastegate only, it hits 7-8psi and immediately starts creeping to 10-12-15psi. It'd probably keep rolling if I stayed in the pedal. Gotta figure that out.

Right now, I'm just ecstatic that it's off ramps and is mobile again. It seems to be running fine, so now it's just fine tune adjustments.

Only picture of the day, after a long awaited trip to the car wash -

<a href="http://imgur.com/EGoaKqt"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/EGoaKqtl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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So, I also had a new check engine light. I used the lh2.4 diagnostic box to figure out it was from my oxygen sensor. I quickly realized I never snugged down the O2 sensor. Fixed that and tried to clear the code with lh2.4 box. I couldn't get it to clear so disconnected the battery. That did the trick. Put a good bit of miles on her today and no cel.

I got a light and checked all around. No signs of moisture anywhere from leaks except above the water pump. It's only damp, so not sure if it's oil or coolant. I hope that's my only leak on the car.

Now for the boost creep. I did some research and decided I needed to loosen my wastegate. I loosened the set screw and gave it a full revolution looser. I tightened it all back down. It's now hitting about 7 psi and only creeps to 10-11ish psi by the top of the rev range. Is this stable enough to add a manual boost controller? Or do I still have some issue? I read increased exhaust flow will just naturally cause this creep but I've never dealt with it before.
 
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