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Dan's Excursion/Beater Wagon.

crandandall said:
I think the control arms are about as long as they can be already at 1.5" over stock. The balljoint and tie rod end articulation is maxed out at full droop. I have an idea for some tubular arms that use uniballs in place of the stock balljoints for more articulation. I'll probably go with heim joints in place of the tie rod ends.
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Sexy. It looks like there is enough space under there to make mounts below and inwards. Looking forward to ride in it someday!
 
harribert said:
Sexy. It looks like there is enough space under there to make mounts below and inwards. Looking forward to ride in it someday!
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The space is there, but if I did that I'd have to figure out some sort of shorter steering rack or I'd run into bump steer issues. Tie rod end pivots need to be on the same arc as the control arm pivots.
 
crandandall said:
The space is there, but if I did that I'd have to figure out some sort of shorter steering rack or I'd run into bump steer issues. Tie rod end pivots need to be on the same arc as the control arm pivots.
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True, didn't think of that...so crossmember spacers? Redneck it up yo :-P
 
I haven't beat on it too much offroad since I did the coilovers because I've been battling some cooling system issues, think I need to replace the radiator. Night and day difference on the street though. I'm running the stock sway bars.
 
[/QUOTE]I'm planning on switching to 12" 250 or 275 front springs on top of some Eibach progressive tender springs. The 300's are a bit stiff for my taste, but I had them already.[/QUOTE]

i'm running the 12 inch 250# barrel springs off ebay because i noticed that over time my old springs wore away the threaded sleeves of my coilovers. I like them very much :) But i was wondering most about those struts. Did you custom order them? Valving ect? collapsed and extended length? also i noticed you had the of the lower spring perch adjusted differently before you put them on the car and after. What kind of preload are you putting on those springs? I'm currently trying to dial in a similar setup on my car right now and my off the shelf billy hds suck with these springs.
 
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kendog11 said:
i'm running the 12 inch 250# barrel springs off ebay because i noticed that over time my old springs wore away the threaded sleeves of my coilovers. I like them very much :) But i was wondering most about those struts. Did you custom order them? Valving ect? collapsed and extended length? also i noticed you had the of the lower spring perch adjusted differently before you put them on the car and after. What kind of preload are you putting on those springs? I'm currently trying to dial in a similar setup on my car right now and my off the shelf billy hds suck with these springs.
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I'm actually having the same problem with the springs rubbing the sleeves. The struts are custom ordered from Feal Suspension. They're an insert that they build for Subaru WRX's. These are typically used in the rear of a WRX and have 220mm of travel, I forget the extended and collapsed lengths. They are 40mm monotube, single adjustable (adjust comp and rebound at the same time), and have 40 settings. I called Feal and had them valve a set of rear inserts to their front valving since the front corner weight and suspension geometry is pretty close to a WRX. Right now I have them 17 clicks in because when I had them at 20 (the middle) it seemed a bit over dampened. I have zero preload on the springs right now, the springs actually come off the seats about an inch at full droop. With the adjusters where they are now, I have about 5" of droop from ride height.
 
Hmm, updates. I installed an rx-7 oil cooler the other day. Blew 2nd gear out of the transmission last night. I'll have to get some pics up here at some point, I'm a slacker....
 
crandandall said:
I'm actually having the same problem with the springs rubbing the sleeves.
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In the rally car, we split some of that black PVC pipe (think it's sch 40, but don't recall) and slipped it in between the spring and the coil over neck where the threads are. Worked great and the car sees a ton of up and down suspension travel. Just cut one vertical slit the length of the pipe (making it a C) and you've got a variable-sized spacer.
 
Snapped some pics of the oil cooler setup. Not necessarily the most ideal placement, but there isn't really any really great place to keep it out of harm's way. Tube bumper and skidplate are in the works. I was going to swap to a 100amp Denso alt, but it's too big to fit in there with the oil filter where it is. I'll have to go to a remote mount filter when that time comes.

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This one shows the volvo cooler adapter/thermostat and some of the line routing. I'm planning on using some sort of heat sleeve around the lines.

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More line routing, I used summit brand push lock hose and fittings because I got it all for cheap from Homer. The brackets are severely overbuilt because all I had laying around was 3/16 plate.

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Welp, here's the end of another one of my project threads.

This is what a 245 looks like after it's rolled down this:

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I'm guessing 3.5 or 4.5 complete revolutions until it hit those small trees in the center of the first pic, upside down. Yet another one of my cars destroyed, not by me. Watch for this one in the junkyard boys, there's some good stuff bolted to it.
 
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