JW's 1991 240 wagon

volvo78244 said:

nice to see you keepin' your car in a good shape!
keep it going

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Thnx! And also for Friday when we visited the Ring with our bikes!





And today I made a small tool to press out the TAB bushings.



Always handy some extra power in the lathe





Works great. An old Whiteblock cylinder head bolt is more than strong enough for pulling the bushing out. Takes a lot of force, tighten, then smack with hammer, repeat.
Axles removed, some more sandblasting, bit of extra paint. Wheel bearings look like new. Grease looks old/dry, will be repacked.



Old bushing was replaced in 2004, ca 100K ago.

Meanwhile.. Have to keep busy! More than cars in life?



Todo:

• Under body coating floor now the axle has been removed.
• Remove open diff and pull bearings.
• Install bearings on Truetrack.
• Make/fit tone-ring on TrueTrack.
• Install diff, check clearances/pattern.
• Weld reinforcement plates to trailing arms.
• Paint trailing arms.
• Make spherical bearings work with axle.
• Adapt Panhard rod so it can be adjusted+paint it.
• Find and paint new alu cover.
• Paint axle.
• Install axles, mount E-brake ish.
• Install whole axle, bleed brakes.
• etc...

OK! getting somewhere.



Axle painted. Top coat is 'Brantho Robust Lack' in RAL 9005 - Jet Black. Cures fast, super thick and with minimal care it gives a very smooth surface. Bit like POR15?

Oh and on the left you can see a tool/puller I made to remove the carrier bearings. Not sure if it is going to work. Wanted to remove them etc after I heard they are usually fine to re-use. But these look meh, preload was very low and I suspect I'll destroy them when pulling them off the carrier. If time permits to install the TT I'll just cut a slot in them and give them a whack with hammer/chisel. I'll check contact patch and backlash with the pair of new setup bearings we adapted long time ago. I suspect new bearings with the original shims will be fine.
New input shaft seal is already installed, old one was a bear to remove. I suspect I wont touch the shims of the pinion bearings so just went ahead and installed the seal anyway.




Trailing arms sandblasted, reinforced, primered, painted and new rubber bushing in the front position. Thought about shortening them but my car is hardly lowered in the back so i didn't. Can always make a new set, shortened and swap m over.




Underbody coated, after a good pressure wash.




Spherical bearings, found one size up that also fits. Fluro GLXSW. Making 4 misalignment spacers and 2 sleeves next week.
Ordered some new nuts-bolts too, new brake backing plates, new e-brake hardware and pads, new swaybar mounting plates, M16 rod end and turnbuckle for the Panhard rod etc.

Hopefully the TrueTrack install goes to plan. Still have some waterjet cut tone rings I made a few years ago. I think they'll work with some hammering. May 1st i need the 240 again for work and have plenty of other stuff to do until then.

• <s>Sandblast Axle+misc stuff</s>
• <s>Under body coating floor now the axle has been removed.</s>
• <s>Remove open diff, clean housing</s>
• Pull carrier bearings.
• Check backlash and contact pattern with new bearings/old shims/Truetrack.
• Install bearings on Truetrack+ring gear.
• Make/fit tone-ring on TrueTrack.
• Install diff, check clearances/pattern.
• <s>Weld reinforcement plates to trailing arms.</s>
• <s>Install new rubber bushings in front of trailing arms.</s>
• <s>Paint trailing arms.</s>
• Make spherical bearings work with axle.
• Re-grease wheel bearings.
• Make new spacers for the upper spring perches, car is has reverse rake without.
• Adapt Panhard rod so it can be adjusted+paint it. Or skip this if i run out of time.
• Find and paint new alu cover. Or skip this if i run out of time.
• <s>Paint axle.</s>
• Install axles, mount E-brake ish.
• Install whole axle, bleed brakes, fill oil.
• etc...

Fits!



Spherical bearing holders made and bearings pressed in, only some spacers left to make.
Also new spacers for under the spring perches made (30mm thick). This specific polymer stuff machines so nice. Old ones were from wood and were showing their age.




New Timken bearings for the diff sourced (hi-cap version, more stronger?). $$$. Alu cover painted. 22mm IPD rear swaybar too, going to run it for now to get a better feeling for the impact of the mods. Not changing everything at the same time.

Tomorrow I'll take a look at swapping the TrueTrack.

superb work JW.
now finish that axle ASAP and then just GO GO GO.

And done.

TrueTrack fitted too.



Thanks to www.bakaxel.se
Fast shipping, good advice, excellent supplier. High preload 922A588 version.




Checked backlash, was at 0.16mm. Original carrier bearings didn't look that good anymore. The outer ring had a very slight ridge I could feel with my nails and traces of flakes of metal in the surface (looked like FOD though no sand to be found and very little steel on the magnetic drain plug). Also where the bearing outer ring was bearing against the diff housing it showed slight wear/fretting. Bolts were tight when I opened it. Old diff came out with hardly any preload, new one had good preload and 0.14-0.15mm lash.



Made a tone ring some time ago. Just plain mild steel. Speedo works, only fluctuates at low speeds. Maybe slightly reducing the air gap helps. Will try later.




And done. Silver diff cover just because.

Tested it for ~200 km now. Still works.

The spherical trailing arm bearings/bushings: Wow. Before I was constantly making small adjustments to the steering, esp/even at highway speeds/cruising. And (mid) corner when transitioning engine brake/power etc. Always felt 'play' or rear axle movement going on/off throttle. Sometimes a clunk when reversing or pulling away. Rear end just follows now. Axle follows road imperfections much better now. Much more comfortable on speed bumps and imperfections. Car goes in the direction where I point the front wheels! The rubber TA bushings that were replaced were 10 year old and cracked but not totally shot.

TrueTrack: Good, excellent. No strange diff noises from the gears etc. Not more than before. Only heard the TT working when I made a tight U-turn on pavement just after installing. Some creaking noise. Heard it twice and not anymore. Not as tail happy as I expected, its still super easy to drive it fast and use some of the torque to get the rear end to turn without going drifto. On loose surface the inner wheel instantly tries to spin when you make a tight turn. Kinda fun. Coming back home today I tested some WOT first gear turns in a parking lot and yeah then the rear end breaks loose and spins both tires (at least thats how it feels).
For the rest, point the front wheels where you want to go, press the rite pedal and it just goes go go go! Before it would go too but with some wheels spin, hop etc.
Winter will be fun too!

Big thanks to Marko who helped me installing the axle and discussing all the various things to fix etc!

NVH:
Front of trailing arms Skandix brand rubber bushings. Axle side Fluro steel/PTFE lined rose joints. Front of torque rods poly, axle side Fluro M16 steel/PTFE lined rod ends. 22mm rear IPD anti-swaybar, Koni yellow shocks, Lesjof?rs lowering springs.
I can feel the drive shaft u-joints better. Some rpm especially i can feel there needs to be some adjusting.
For the rest this setup doesn't transmit more road noise than my old setup and it is more comfortable. Just follows the road so much better, absorbs more imperfections without transmitting them to the chassis.
Curious how it will react with the good wheels, not these 15" all season air ride things.

stuff to mount.



Took a while to get them (8 months) and when I finally had them my car was back into DD duty. Will mount 'm soon, can't wait!




The Group A intercooler will go nicely with the wide 940 radiator, expect I can get it to cool a bit better. New bottom brackets sourced, top ones I still have somewhere in the parts pile.
At the same time different air filter will be fitted together with a Mann Provent 200 for catch can duty. Time to give the coke bottle a rest.

Not sure what I will do with the ems. Part of me is happy with LH. Tho..
It adds up... The old JAW 1.03 is showing its age, so a new WB. Bigger MAF. Tidying up some wires, redo some stuff I did and I'm not happy with. Add some kind of electronic boost control. Data logging? I'd like EGT sensing too!

Halfway there for a good aftermarket EMS box!




Lesjofors Valve springs ready to go in too!


The TrueTrack has been great. Took it off road a few times and with winter tires its quite awesome how far one can go in the mud/sand. Easy and predictable drifts on road too.
Diff/heim joints, all flawless. Had to tighten a few things, no issues for the rest. Covered about 8K now so any issues would have surfaced I guess.

Nice intercooler!
If you happen to have a spare top set, I'm looking for a set for my car.
I can't set all pics but that might be my pc.

Old Chinabay Cbv was worn, had this one laying around. Turned some cranks and voila. V-band to hose adapter. Seems to work fine this cbv. Festo push-in fitting for the vacuum line.




New wheels. 7x17 steelies with 5x108 bolt pattern.
Hope this image host keeps working!




Rear muffler was rusted to pieces, internally. Delete! Now one small straight through muffler before the axle and its pretty loud. Routing is **** its just done with free old crap I had laying around. Maybe it'll last me at least a year before I need to do a good fix. Or I find some time to fix it this summer.




Engine healthy, 330k +T, same for all, 12 bar cold and dry engine.


Had some issues with the 240. Had a backfire lifting throttle suddenly in corner/drift, stalled. Didn't want to run properly afterwards.. High idle, rich, iac no influence. Check check triple check.. Throttle plate was bent from the backfire! Fixed that still ran crap. Hunting idle, rich running, hot running, any load over sustaining speed gave misfire. Found some irregularities on a few cam lobes, probably surface rust, changed to T cam for dat torks, unrelated to the bad running of course.
Turned out the knock sensor was bad. Found that while doing data logging run with blabla from bti.

Did a high speed test run after fixing and it turns out injectors are at 100% duty cycle and maf voltage is just a hair away from fuelcut in the 4000-6000 rpm region. 016 maf and t5/t6 injectors @ 7 psi boost.. Seems to flow nicely. T cam is good for daily and any more cam is too much for the current fuel system and the old weak valve springs..

Wow... nice man, luckily it keeps continuing.

Quick steer roll correction spacers installed, great stuff.

During the install i noticed the control arms were way hard to move, no budge with human force.



Looks rusted to hell.




Is rusted to hell.
BFH+violence+whiteblock head bolt as puller.




Made some new bushings, by dumb luck I had some 25mm stainless steel leftover from dumpster diving long time ago. Bit of machining and had these as replacements.




For now at the normal steering setting. Had to tighten the bolts after one tank of gas. Very happy with how they improved the roadholding.
Working front suspension also helps!

Fixed various little things, like broken rear seat fold thingie, some soundproofing in the doors, fresh belts.

Bought a set of REV Inconel 38mm exhaust valves, time to build a better flowing head.
Same time with the head i'm installing some form of aftermarket engine management. Not sure yet what, want MaxxEcu but for the low power goal its a bit overkill. And some brakes. Enough ideas.

Nice as allways JW,

Did you know that you can get that "Quick steering" stuff from Ben in Holland now?
(and all the other Kaplhenke things too).

A set of nice brakes crossed my path, Porsche Cayenne/VW Touareg Brembo front+rear set. It's the 6 piston ZR17/ZL17 setup so can keep 17" wheels.







Calipers cleaned up quite nicely, still probably gonna spray them with 2k paint. New seals, new bleeder and other stuff will be replaced. Wonder if the aftermarket seals are any good, if I go for official Brembo stuff it's like 400 euro to rebuild them, if all pistons are good.
Undecided what to do with discs. If I go R discs I'm going to press in a sleeve for the handbrake to use stock 240 pads. Little bit concerned about weight of the whole setup but whatever. Calipers are roughly same weight as stock or even lighter but the discs/pads will add some over the stock stuff that's still in place.

Need to adapt those 17" steelies for winter use when these brakes are fitted.



Changed steering leverage setting on the quick steer roll correction spacers, nice improvement. Needed to too because of 15" winter wheels. Bought a Kukko 129-1 puller for the ball joints, would not budge without it. Very nice little tool, nice upgrade from the Biltema one I had before.

For the rest, clutch slave cylinder is leaking. Windshield is leaking. Exhaust is pretty bad. Needs alignment. Needs better stereo. Those things need fixing first. Spent more time biking and working than fixing car.

Edit: added some sound proofing stuff under the rear seat, makes a difference. Will add pictures.

Chilm said:

Nice as allways JW,

Did you know that you can get that "Quick steering" stuff from Ben in Holland now?
(and all the other Kaplhenke things too).

Click to expand...

Ah cool, good to know! Which company?

Those Porsche calipers though...

Vol242vo said:

Those Porsche calipers though...

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I'm lost for quality parts. Though these brakes are overkill.. Haha.

Since I'm doing more and more two wheeled fun (bikeparks, downhill, mountain bike, motorcycle both on and off road) I've come to really appreciate good brakes and suspension + adjusting it to my (bad) style.

Sound insulation stuff:



First some thin tar like stuff to add some mass to larger sections of unsupported/flexing sheet metal. More could make it more silent but my gut feeling tells me that more in this area won't make much of a difference. Could be wrong.




A layer of 20mm felt to finish it off. Going to extend it behind the rear seat. This resulted in a noticeable noise reduction. Still enough to improve but this is a start.




Fixed heated seat, more work than expected. Sooo worth it to have working seat heating.




Italian tuneup.. Tho Google photos made it look more red than it actually is.

Was that glowing manifold from a burnout, highway pull, or what? Looks awesome. I’ve never seen mine glow, but I’ve never really looked.

iHateVolvoPeople said:

Was that glowing manifold from a burnout, highway pull, or what? Looks awesome. I?ve never seen mine glow, but I?ve never really looked.

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This was from 10 mins mostly wide open throttle between a few dozen tight hairpin bends. This .63 a/r Cosworth T3 is not really stressed or choking the exhaust flow at the low boost I'm running, timing is good. It's a bit more dramatic than I expected, maybe catalytic conv is blocked a bit, who knows.

Hmm just cleaned fuse box, was corroded. Then I noticed clutch master cylinder leaks, was a new one from Ate when I did the +t a century ago.

So tempted to go aftermarket ems and clean up a lot of wiring.

JW240 said:

A set of nice brakes crossed my path, Porsche Cayenne/VW Touareg Brembo front+rear set. It's the 6 piston ZR17/ZL17 setup so can keep 17" wheels.

Click to expand...

Wow.

man.. you seem to have very small hands!!

Hey jan.. i just phoned with MaxxECU germany for almost an Hour.. very qualified support, very nice contact.. no "just send us an email with what you want" he took time for me to explain everything.

He is located near Hannover which is not that far from me, they do TeamViewer tuning, when something does not work like you think it should and in case of any troubles with wiring you can always trailer the car in and they will have a look. Additionally, he owns a Volvo 245 which he converted to FT with GT35

I just decided for the MaxxECU Sport with a FuseBlock.

MadDog_945 said:

man.. you seem to have very small hands!!

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Disassembled front brake calipers, pistons look excellent. New seals from VW dealer are reasonably priced, gonna replace all of them.
Next few weeks gonna turn some caps to keep the inside clean for glass bead blasting of the calipers. Thinking of painting them Porsche acid green, will stand out behind steelies. Its a horrible color but whatever.

MadDog_945 said:

Hey jan.. i just phoned with MaxxECU germany for almost an Hour.. very qualified support, very nice contact.. no "just send us an email with what you want" he took time for me to explain everything.

He is located near Hannover which is not that far from me, they do TeamViewer tuning, when something does not work like you think it should and in case of any troubles with wiring you can always trailer the car in and they will have a look. Additionally, he owns a Volvo 245 which he converted to FT with GT35

I just decided for the MaxxECU Sport with a FuseBlock.

Click to expand...

Sounds good, thanks for the feedback. Saw his ads on Ebay-kleinanzeigen, good to hear
about the support. I'm not sure which version to go for, sport or race, leaning to race, because racecar. I'm always making things complicated with the future addons I'd like - flex-fuel sensor, EGTs, oil/fuel pressure, Efan speed control, lots of ideas!

Oh man the stuff I want to do piles up.. first the easy stuff to keep rolling and the stuff to support the power

Gonna order one of those HWB60 fuse/relay holders. Works with 280 series micro/mini relays and fuses.
https://m.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/hard-wired-pdm.aspx

Was browsing Bosch Motorsport catalogue and found some reasonably priced sensors for IAT, cam phase, oil temperature etc with calibration graphs. For oil pressure decided on Honeywell PX3 series sensor.


Still not happy with adjustment of torque rods. Need to check all driveshaft angles and maybe some fresh U-joints. Saw Meyle TQ-rod bushings on Daparto, gonna try those too, not sure if the poly is necessary or even hurting articulation.

<img src="https://i.ibb.co/q9WwjGk/IMG-20190303-183015.jpg" alt="IMG-20190303-183015" border="0">