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TTV-Flywheel Pressureplate options

By the way, i have just finished preparing the engine, with an holset HY35. So when it starts to spool, it still has no power.
There is a 10psi spring in the wastegate anyway so power is not an issue here.

The clutch starts to slip at 3000rpm.

The clutch fork is leaning towards the front of the engine, i would say 15-20deg from straight out of the bellhousing.

Is 5.5mm of washers too much ?
 
Just so everyone sees what the parts are :

TTV Flywheel to match 850r clutch :




850R clutch kit : disc and pressure plate








Like I said, about 5.5mm of spacers under the pivot point, and the result is the fork leaning toward the front of the car.

I doubt it could be slippage from oil, beacause even if the rear seal is leaking, oil would be centrifugated on the engine side of the flywheel, and there is no way it would make its way inside the bolt holes and on the mating surface.

Any ideas ?
 
Did you buy it as a complete kit with the already extended pivot ball? In that case the washers would be too much

The other possible one is the slave/master cylinder is sticking holding pressure on the fork
 
I bought the m90 used and not modified in any way, the flywheel from you and the clutch kit on the side.

About the master cylinder keeping pressure on the fork, I just shortened the rod just to be sure, and nope, same problem, only now clutch will engage as soon as the pedal leaves the floor. But that's not a problem.

Back to square one.
 
Before I take the gearbox down (what a ****in pain in the ass) could somebody confirm the part numbers on clutch disc and pressure plate please?

Again, does it need to be bedded in or not?
 
WAY too much grease on the hub. You just need a little bit on the inside of the spline area, it's doing nothing sitting on the face of the hub like that. The extra grease could have gotten onto the pressure plate, causing the disc to slip.
 
Didn't think that much grease could cause so much slip.

I guess it's disassembly time i guess. Shyte. Thank you guys.
 
thx for the fast info ! :)

1090?? i have the ttv for 850r clutch but ordererd directly via ttv racing

is it normal, when the clutch is engaged, the throwoutbearing turns with the flywheel? mine seems to be pressed against the springarms a bit??
 
1090 is the TTV part number

It should not be touching. The piston rod in the slave cylinder can vary. You need to either take out some packing or shorten the pushrod
 
Seems to me mine are always touching a little bit. Remember when your throw out is going bad they usually make a noise when the clutch is out but as soon as you push it in the noise goes away. We'll it wouldn't be making any noise unless it's spinning. With hydraulic slave no way to adjust it so it can't touch as far as I know. I usually make my slave push rod longer and also space out the fork ball more. What I did with my getrag and flat johnV flywheel and saab pressure plate. Otherwise when you push in clutch the slave pushes too far and pops out of the end of the slave seal and you lose all your fluid.
 
classicswede said:
1090 is the TTV part number

It should not be touching. The piston rod in the slave cylinder can vary. You need to either take out some packing or shorten the pushrod
Click to expand...

that means in ofhers words when the pivot is spaced i need to shorten the pushrod until there is literally some play in the system which allows the clutchfork to travel that much back it totally releases pressure on the bearing?
 
I am not sure if it helps, but here are some details i learned about clutch setups from Jonas (bakaxel.se) while installing my 765 setup.

1) When the gearbox is in place but with no slave cylinder on, you should be able to move the clutchfork 2 mm back and forth (it is even better to look straight at the bearing going back and forth because this is where the 2mm movement you want to see is - the clutchfork has play so it may be confusing). In other words the bearing has to have 2mm play between the diaphragm spring and its end position close to the gearbox. This ensures that things will not seize up in there and you are not having any "default" force on the diaphragm spring when putting the gearbox in place. If you don't have that you need to make adjustments to the pivot ball.

2) When installing an aftermarket flywheel and clutch disk you gotta be careful the tube that the bearing slides on does not hit the clutch disk when the gearbox is installed. If it is you can do nothing else than shortening the tube.

3) When the slave cylinder is installed after checking 1 and 2, ideally its pushrod should be at its inner position (so total length is the minimum) without pushing on the diaphragm spring (you won't be able to push the diaphragm spring anyway with your hands to install the C clip in other case). Of course hydro setups always want to expand the slave cylinder with little force so there is no way for the bearing not to touch the diaphragm spring (as said above correctly imo).

If rule 3 is not the case (you can't insert the c clip pushing the slave cylinder with your hands) you have to shorten the slave cylinder pushrod in order to achieve it if you got everything else correct. Also it is not correct the pushrod to be at the middle of its travel when the clutch pedal is not pressed because it either won't be able to expand correctly to press the spring diaphragm far enough to disengage the clutch disk and the pushrod may pop out leaking fluids (so you need to fabricate a longer pushrod taking care rule 3 again).

In order to check the whole setup it you gotta lift the rear wheels off the ground (engine off), and have a person try to spin the rear wheels while depressing the clutch pedal. Mark the position that the wheels are released, and then you gotta have 1/4 inch more to the pedal stop. If you got more you are forcing the diaphragm spring too hard so you may break it (so you need to install a pedal stop). If it does not disengage you need a longer slave cylinder pushrod so back to step 1.

Hope these make sense in the way i wrote them and help someone.
 
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Once again the throw out bearing is always touching slightly. Not sure why anybody would think you can pull it all the way back and away from where it will be touching. Maybe with a clutch cable and spring but not the stock volvo hydraulic with the external slave. Show me the pic where your car is running and you throw out bearing ain't touching the pressure plate fingers and then I will believe you.


Also the push rod would fall out if it has no tension on it if you didn't know that also. Once again I had to make my push rod longer.

How could the push rod pull the fork back enough so the throw out bearing isn't touching the fingers? It's a push rod, not a pull back out and no touch rod...

The way of the hydraulic is there is no adjustment other then the fork ball height or push rod length. OTher then that the fluid keeps everything together in the same spot until pedal is pushed and then it goes back to the same spot after pedal pushing is over, and that spot is throw out bearing touching the fingers...
 
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thats makes sense in any way! thx ppl! i spaced the pivot with 4 shims so about 6.3mm and lengthened the rod about 20mm. now the clutch feels like it should.. before i had to slam the clutch into the carpet to fully disengange when the box was hot.

next step is to change the plastic for a metal pedal to eliminate the flex and install a steelflex hose. the clutch hose expands really much whether it is new.
 
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