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No longer mom's grocery getter(1991 244)

Well, new house has been purchased and the garage is just about set up. Sadly, it's maybe smaller than the last one just with a bit more depth. The car has been rotting outside at the shop since at least June and I hope to finally get it back in a garage long term after washing it in the next few days. It's been mostly outside since August of 2017 when our S60 was purchased as that got the prime spot in the garage.

I don't expect to be doing anything with it aside from getting an oxygen sensor bung added into the current header so I can monitor and fine tune it with the AEM Uego setup I bought earlier this year.

In real news, it's registered as a classic/special interest vehicle now so I can drive it again! Only to special events... Haha. Good enough though, with how much use it has been getting anyway! I'll just need to get back to organizing events or going to other people's events again when I want to drive it.
 
Coupid said:
That's awesome to hear the 244 is still alive and kicking! You'll have it whipped back into shape in no time
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Well, I don't know about that... I have to make the General Leif run with my free time and then go race it! But maybe this winter I'll dig into it some. We shall see!
 
mblue240 said:
'Bout time! You can also drive it for maintenance and stuff...I take my car out for "tuning" every once in awhile.
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Yes, indeed! Did you take your front license plate off? I'm probably going to.

On another note, I got the AEM UEGO wideband installed and it's read properly 3 out of probably 10 key cycles... :roll: It hovers around 13.4-13.7 regardless of what the engine is doing and flickers every once and a while to 14 or so. I don't know why, and haven't had a chance to look into it.

The check engine light also turned on, and I haven't looked into why, but it's probably something to do with the tuning I was trying while trying to get through DEQ? I'll find out one day.

It's stinky like it's burning oil(maybe valve guides/seals but the cylinder bores aren't great either), and I have some lightweight factory rods(9mm) and some new oversize factory pistons if I want to rebuild this motor or another one with factory parts someday. I'm undecided if I want to use factory or something modern(lighter weight and coated), though. It should probably be modern as the car doesn't get used much anyway, so who cares about 200k mile longevity as long as it's done well it should be fine and better for my needs/wants? My ported, big valve 530 head would be nice to put on to give it more performance again, but at that point I should probably just yank the engine. Bearing Service isn't cheap to go through it all, though! :roll:

While I'm driving it around with the S60 at the dealership for a new injector(!), the right taillight's parking lights don't work. Stupid taillights...

There's some suspension noise over bumps up front(always has been from the rear shocks, I think the bolts that go through the frame rails have hollowed out their holes a bit), but I just had some used coil-overs delivered from Harald that I can one day get around to installing. It may or may not fix the problem.

Then there's the part where it's been neglected over the past two years and sitting outside without being washed regularly enough. I washed the car finally and it looked like crap still wherever there was stuff on the paint. Then if you ran your hand over the paint, it was like fine sandpaper so I ran my "clay bar" wipe over most of the top surfaces and it's sooo much better, but there are defects in the paint all over the place that are still there. Even in the clearcoat. :grrr: DON'T NEGLECT YOUR CARS, PEOPLE!

One day I'll have a professional try and do some paint restoration on it, but I don't think it'll help as much as I'd like. Maybe it'll get taken down to metal and stitch welded one day when I become rich and famous.
 
Haha, but the coil overs are not! Thanks dude! I might want to grab new sleeves, springs(beehive so they don’t rub?), helper springs and the lux steer stuff before I install them someday. I feel like 450 will be a little stiffer than I want for the car, considering it’s so nice and cushy now before it crashes on the bump stops... We’ll see.
 
I thought you drove my car on this front suspension before. Pretty sure that it will feel overdamped with anything lighter.

As for beehives and helpers: these sleeves were worn from being used with 7" 250#s before, and there is little benefit from a helper if you use the 10" springs included. There is really no need to replace the sleeves. Additionally, be wary that you might encounter clearance issues between your wheel/tire package and bottom spring pervh. That mentioned, you could try 450# 8" springs with tenders if you are really that worried about it.

One last note: it will be low. Would consider having Ben cut you spacer plates if you end up being unhappy with the ride height/available droop.
 
Harlard said:
I thought you drove my car on this front suspension before. Pretty sure that it will feel overdamped with anything lighter.

As for beehives and helpers: these sleeves were worn from being used with 7" 250#s before, and there is little benefit from a helper if you use the 10" springs included. There is really no need to replace the sleeves. Additionally, be wary that you might encounter clearance issues between your wheel/tire package and bottom spring perch. That mentioned, you could try 450# 8" springs with tenders if you are really that worried about it.

One last note: it will be low. Would consider having Ben cut you spacer plates if you end up being unhappy with the ride height/available droop.
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I likely have driven your car on this setup before, but I didn't pay much attention to the ride as I was mostly likely paying attention to the power.

To clarify, even with the 10" 450lb springs in there it'll be low because you can't raise the lower perch as high as one might want due to the clearance issue the lower perch will create with the wheel/tire? Or if you go higher the car will not have much droop travel at that point anymore? The point of the helper would be to help keep the inside wheel on the ground to the extent of droop possible after the main spring comes unseated(if it does with the 10"?).

Thanks for the further information!
 
The 10" spring will always have a little bit of preload if the car is not absolutely dumped. You will likely want it as high as it will want to go as well, for what it's worth.
 
Ah, ok. So there isn't much droop, you're saying. That's not optimal for uneven surfaces. I guess I'll play around with it one day and may need something else. I scraped my exhaust twice this morning going over a speedbump slowly enough already... *sigh* These are Saab length inserts, correct?
 
Correct. Like I said, get a spacer for the strut mount so you can get your strut travel optimal, based on the fact that you aren't into hot sexy stance anymore :-P
 
Well, it's not exactly anywhere near factory ride height as it sits... It tucks the tires some up front, barely, so we shall see.
 
in that case if you wanna keep it at that ride height, throw on the 450s as is and see what's what.
 
The height probably won't be an issue if I have stiffer springs, so that's likely what I'll do, but I may need to go higher to get some more weight on the rear tires at some point. We'll see when I one day get around to putting it on the scales.
 
In that case just lower the ass end of the car. Some shocks, springs, and adjustable perches will only set you back $600 new, unless you decide to fab yourself some fancy ass QA1 coilovers or something.
 
Did you get an SP plate? The 83 and 89 both have SP plates, since they wouldn't let me run trees or the new Wonderland. Once they stop making Wonderlands I'll pay the $15 to transfer my plate back on the 89, but still only run the rear. I have vanity Euro plates for the front on my xmas list. The new '84 needs to get registered as an SP too, but it has the original yellow and blue plates that we should be able to keep.
 
mblue240 said:
Did you get an SP plate? The 83 and 89 both have SP plates, since they wouldn't let me run trees or the new Wonderland. Once they stop making Wonderlands I'll pay the $15 to transfer my plate back on the 89, but still only run the rear. I have vanity Euro plates for the front on my xmas list. The new '84 needs to get registered as an SP too, but it has the original yellow and blue plates that we should be able to keep.
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I did not get a SP plate, I still have the standard tree plate... She just asked me if I wanted to keep the original plates or not, if I remember correctly.
 
That's weird. I was pretty sure (and was told the same when I registered all the cars) that you can't use any plate that is currently in production. I was able to use the old blue plates on the 142, since they're out of production. I was told if I didn't want SP plates on the others I would need to find period correct plates. That just supports everything I read in my research that DMV employees really have no idea what's going on with registering vintage cars.
 
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