Sanity check-1983 245 Turbo

I have the chance to purchase a 2-owner, 83 245 Turbo wagon. Very good condition, though it spent the last 6 years parked-the engine is pretty much shot.

I have a complete, running and driving 1990 760 Turbo that would be a donor car...it was free like every grandpa series should be...

Now....the B230FT in the 760 along with the AW71 would bolt right up in the 83, but theres the wiring, fuel system and other odds and ends to contend with. I figured I'd use a 89-93 240 donor for the fuel tank and engine harness. What about the speedo? Use a 86+ rear diff?

Should I make this dream come true? Any tips or pointers? Like I was secretly looking for a project car.....

If you choose LH2.4 which the 240 years you provided would mostly have, then it would require a speed signal from the diff cover like you mentioned, and a diff with a tone ring. I ran without one on LH2.4 and I always got the code saying it was missing the speed signal. Had a few issues with the idle control valve as well. Then you need the electric speedo. pretty easy stuff.

Do you need to swap the fuel tank? is there something wrong with it? Did a 94 940t -> 90 245 swap the other day. engine harness was the same so it was easy, plug n play, took a couple of days since I had school.

Otherwise do it. Wagons are the bomb to drive with some power behind them and fool some of the jokers in town. And you can haul some really long lumber with them too.

I can acquire a 89-93 240 donor car pretty easily.

I figured going from a CIS to a EFI car would require an entirely different fuel system. I have to do some research on it. Basically I'd remove all the CIS bits, swap in the entire 90 drivetrain and such. I'm going to examine the car in detail and will update with more info.

You'll need a 240 LH2.4 wiring harness. The earlier ones with a 9-pin or 11-pin cabin connector, and a big 2x4 gray start/gauge connector in the engine compartment, are easier to wire in. The "Late 93" harnesses went to a bigger 2x12 cabin connector but got rid of the 2x4 gray connector. These take more splicing. More info at ZVOLV's: LH2.4 Install/Conversion - Just a few wires to make it run

For fueling, you should be able to keep the K-Jet setup and just add a hose in the engine compartment. K-Jet has the fuel pump and a "accumulator" under the car, with the filter on the bulkhead. LH2.4 replaces the "accumulator" with the filter under the car and then goes direct to the fuel rail. You can keep the K-Jet filter in the engine compartment and add a hose from there to the fuel rail, and a hose to the return line.

LH2.4 needs a vehicle speed input for good idle. You'll need a LH2.4 differential with a tone ring, or a front ABS wheel sensor, and a matching LH2.4 speedometer. For my conversion, I'm trying to use the K-Jet cruise control pickup off the back of the cable-driven speedometer, with a scrap LH2.4 speedo board, but I haven't gotten it on the road yet. Details are buried somewhere here.

You'll need to relocate the MAF to the K-Jet airbox/cobra side - search for pics/discussion. You need to add a resistor pack to the wiring harness if using the original B230FT low impedance injectors, or use alternate high impedance injectors.

Is the 240 an automatic already? If not, you may need a different driveshaft and supports instead of the 760 ones?

Thank you for all the input. I've opted to pass on this future money pit.

OK you passed the sanity check


Wimp