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Relatively stranded 1,000 miles from home

JohnMc said:
There's no way to compensate for that. It simply has less oxygen to work with in each cylinder full.

A turbo car that does electronic absolute boost levels vs. relative (like most mechanical would be) could work the turbo harder and end up making the same hp.
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Why not mechanical waste gate keep up more power, it takes 14 psi to overcome that spring tension in the WG actuator, doesn't matter if it's at sea level or not.
 
jack said:
how you see youself
michael-phelps-10.jpg



how tb sees you
21c91f0c48cf08e25324a4b02c340599.jpg


How I see you
Emo_crying.jpg


how I wish you were
img-thing


how you really are
<a href="http://s325.photobucket.com/user/93volvo240/media/79651323-49F5-4ECD-A2C5-08AB159F8DAA_zpspvijlgyq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k391/93volvo240/79651323-49F5-4ECD-A2C5-08AB159F8DAA_zpspvijlgyq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 79651323-49F5-4ECD-A2C5-08AB159F8DAA_zpspvijlgyq.jpg"/></a>
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You asked where'z I's? Busy fixing lunch for 3 girlies girls...Don't worry you're doing just fine with this post here as in PLUS Juan Billion...:cheers:

The kid said "You don't know how high i was"

Well at least its legal now in Colorado:roll:
 
VB242 said:
Why not mechanical waste gate keep up more power, it takes 14 psi to overcome that spring tension in the WG actuator, doesn't matter if it's at sea level or not.
Click to expand...

I've wondered a bit about this myself..On some cars like that Frod whatevar Crossways thing I have its a map sensor system..EUC senses absolute manifold pressure and then the ECU controls the waste gate actuator (pulsing the solenoid thang over there)
So on this system if it doesn't se 2 bar in the manifold it doesn't waste off anything and the wastegate stays close 9and the poor little turbo spoools its brains out a little more) until it makes 2 bar boost..
That seems like altitude and reduced baro wis taken car of..
On other systems it should be similar... Like LH the electric element doesn't sense the volume and cool down so ECU says to waste gate "so solly lound eye no relief for YOU!"
 
Would atmospheric pressure on the outside of a mechanical/spring wastegate affect its operation? I feel like a gate with 1 bar of sea-level air pressing against it should open slightly later than one at 5,000 ft, and thus build more boost.

Not sure how significant it is, since 5,000ft is only ~2 psi less of atmospheric pressure.
 
VB242 said:
Why not mechanical waste gate keep up more power, it takes 14 psi to overcome that spring tension in the WG actuator, doesn't matter if it's at sea level or not.
Click to expand...

It's 14 psi over the ambient air pressure.

The ambient air pressure is lower, so adding 14 psi to it is still lower than adding 14 psi to a higher pressure.

I.e. at sea level there is about 14.7 psi of ambient air pressure. Add 14 psi of boost to that and you have 28.7 psi trying to fill each cylinder of air (with varying degrees of success - the volumetric efficiency).

Drive up to 12,000 feet and you have about 9.5 psi of ambient air pressure. Add 14 to that and you only get 23.5 psi trying to fill each cylinder. Obviously, that's dropping less of a percentage than a normally aspirated car will, but it's still a drop.

A car that is electronically regulating boost levels to an absolute pressure target will work the turbo harder, and assuming the turbo isn't maxed out in capacity, will still try to work up to that regulated 28.7 psi, making 19.2 psi of relative boost to accomplish it. Net result, no loss in power at all.
 
John V said:
You asked where'z I's? Busy fixing lunch for 3 girlies girls...Don't worry you're doing just fine with this post here as in PLUS Juan Billion...:cheers:

The kid said "You don't know how high i was"

Well at least its legal now in Colorado:roll:
Click to expand...

Nah I was just kidding, I don't smoke. I only drink













Koolaid
 
JohnMc said:
It's 14 psi over the ambient air pressure.

The ambient air pressure is lower, so adding 14 psi to it is still lower than adding 14 psi to a higher pressure.

I.e. at sea level there is about 14.7 psi of ambient air pressure. Add 14 psi of boost to that and you have 28.7 psi trying to fill each cylinder of air (with varying degrees of success - the volumetric efficiency).

Drive up to 12,000 feet and you have about 9.5 psi of ambient air pressure. Add 14 to that and you only get 23.5 psi trying to fill each cylinder. Obviously, that's dropping less of a percentage than a normally aspirated car will, but it's still a drop.

A car that is electronically regulating boost levels to an absolute pressure target will work the turbo harder, and assuming the turbo isn't maxed out in capacity, will still try to work up to that regulated 28.7 psi, making 19.2 psi of relative boost to accomplish it. Net result, no loss in power at all.
Click to expand...

I get it now, thanks!
 
I finally replaced the intank pump today. The main pump is much quieter and happier.

I pulled off the return hose and not much came out.

Then I clamped off the feed hose with some vice grips and disconnected the main hose from the main pump. Reasoning for the vice grips is due to siphoning lol. Ask me how I know.




yadayadayada remove pump, don't drop anything, clean the rim with many q-tips. install new VOLVO seal (not pictured).


I needed a new sender as well so I transferred what I needed from the old one to the new one. I reused the 3" tubing even though I bought the $6 piece from iPd:roll: It was much easier to fit and still in great shape. I also swapped the original float ball to the new sender because some of them are known to leak. FWIW, my aftermarket cheapie sending unit was NOT wired backwards. New filter sock as well.


Reinstalled the pump, it took me a while to get the float ball back in there and I kind of forced it, but it works.... I tightened everything down and installed a brand new r9 rated 5/16" hose for the return. I ordered some 12mm r7 hose for the feed (r7 should work I hope..) but it hasn't arrived yet so the stock hose went back on.

So new
-pump
-sender
-seal
-filter sock
-fuel lines off tank

It feels reliable now.
 
Who has the lead on high quality fuel hose? The r7 and r9 that were brand new 2 years ago are severely cracked/dryrotted and causing concern. No excuse for it to wear out this prematurely. IIRC i spent a prety penny on both fuel lines in hopes that they would last the rest of the cars lifetime.

https://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2017/09/psa-low-quality-sae-j30-r9-fuel-hose/

I will have to check for sure which brand I installed but I will most likely opt for Gates or some other reputable company. Hopefully others will see this (and the above link) and stray away from 'cheap suitable fuel line'.
 
I like to use the genuine volvo stuff for the feed hose from the fuel tank to the pump. For the 5/16 I just use generic high pressure fuel injection rated hose. Most local places have hose rated for fuel injection.

That isn't much of a service life. A lot of parts seem to be like that. There was another thread about the quality of rubber suspension parts and how it all seems to last half the time or less than original quality parts.
 
Yeah I’m disappointed to say the least. I don’t remember what brand I bought though. But I’ll stick to something j30r9 rated for the feed and return. And on brand.
 
Trust me , you will know within about 36 hours if you didnt use submersible fuel line inside the tank...!
 
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