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Which cam for the b230f is the most worth it now?

GeneralBurrito

GeneralBurrito

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Location
California
I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?
 
pretty sure I paid around $60 for mine, that was posted for sale on this site. Just ask for one or look. --B cam, made a noticeable difference.

You can get a A/B cam for pretty cheap. When I see H/K or the V cams, they seem to be a bit more especially on ebay. Also keep in mind buying from IPD its new so for sure more expensive the Volvo cams are going to be used but worth it.
 
vwblue1967 said:
pretty sure I paid around $60 for mine, that was posted for sale on this site. Just ask for one or look. --B cam, made a noticeable difference.

You can get a A/B cam for pretty cheap. When I see H/K or the V cams, they seem to be a bit more especially on ebay. Also keep in mind buying from IPD its new so for sure more expensive the Volvo cams are going to be used but worth it.
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Would you recommend a K cam? I have also heard of the RSI stage 1 cam being an overall better cam than the K, but RSI is long gone. Also, would a K cam pass emissions in California? Given I have the lh2.2, I could advance the timing a little to help with the weaker low end and have an overall better powerband.
 
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Do you have auto or manual? K cam is great for a manual. If auto, A or B cam would be a good budget route. B cams go for 50-60. A cams a little more 75-100. The guy on ebay has those cams overpriced.
 
white855T said:
Do you have auto or manual? K cam is great for a manual. If auto, A or B cam would be a good budget route. B cams go for 50-60. A cams a little more 75-100. The guy on ebay has those cams overpriced.
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I have an m47. Doing a little more research, it seems the V cam would maybe work a little better for me as it has a little better low end than the K. Is the D cam any special? Some people have said that the D is the best for an NA application.
 
I run an A cam in my 91 wagon and previously in my 83 coupe (which now has an H).

Little more lump in the idle, but definitely increased power. With the A instead of the M, I can pull a hill on the highway that I previously would have to downshift for.

With its increased lift/duration/overlap, I would have a hard time believing that it would pass emissions in CA. You never know however and it wouldn't be expensive to give it a try.
 
as usual, you didn't say what for? For usage? Plans?
NO: name age budget skills anything about who the fawk you are or what you want to do or anything..
(Notice how the lack of any clue as to who what why you are, people just jump right in with opinions?)

Want to try again?
 
John V said:
as usual, you didn't say what for? For usage? Plans?
NO: name age budget skills anything about who the fawk you are or what you want to do or anything..
(Notice how the lack of any clue as to who what why you are, people just jump right in with opinions?)

Want to try again?
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Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
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I assure you he is not angry.

Just imagine for a second.

An old Volvo, hood open, a few guys looking under the hood having a beer.

You show up, without any introduction, and say :

"I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?"

People would frown.
That's what this is, frowning, no big deal, no anger, no hard feeling.
And in this situation, it's kind of a normal reaction.
Don't you think?

So let's try again (now that you have mentionned your goals):

Hey dude, welcome to the forum, name's Vince.
What's your name?
How old are you?
What car do you drive?
Have you ****ed with cars for a long time or you a new to it?
 
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QFT

Vincent Gagnon said:
I assure you he is not angry.

Just imagine for a second.

An old Volvo, hood open, a few guys looking under the hood having a beer.

You show up, without any introduction, and say :

"I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?"

People would frown.
That's what this is, frowning, no big deal, no anger, no hard feeling.
And in this situation, it's kind of a normal reaction.
Don't you think?

So let's try again (now that you have mentionned your goals):

Hey dude, welcome to the forum, name's Vince.
What's your name?
How old are you?
What car do you drive?
Have you ****ed with cars for a long time or you a new to it?
Click to expand...
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Would you recommend a K cam? I have also heard of the RSI stage 1 cam being an overall better cam than the K, but RSI is long gone. Also, would a K cam pass emissions in California? Given I have the lh2.2, I could advance the timing a little to help with the weaker low end and have an overall better powerband.
Click to expand...


GeneralBurrito said:
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
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Get a 'B' cam.
 
The B cam made a noticeable difference in my old 89 B230F "NA" engine. Lease the shim kit from IPD, take your time, buy the hushers to quiet her down a bit (they probably lasted long enough to get new vehicles out of warranty). Take special care with your timing belt reinstallation and setup.... many on here have buggered that up, it has some tricks necessary to get it right. More than a few have destroyed valves/pistons by not torqueing the cam gear bolt properly. MORE tricks to do that right, and keep her running. You don't need IPD or RSI cams for a non Turbo DD that just needs to get out of it's own way a bit.

Nope, John isn't mad..... he's just seen this movie too many times ;-)
 
B cam in my '90 n/a daily 240. It made a pretty good difference versus the stock M cam. It's still a slow car.
 
DET17 said:
The B cam made a noticeable difference in my old 89 B230F "NA" engine. Lease the shim kit from IPD, take your time, buy the hushers to quiet her down a bit (they probably lasted long enough to get new vehicles out of warranty). Take special care with your timing belt reinstallation and setup.... many on here have buggered that up, it has some tricks necessary to get it right. More than a few have destroyed valves/pistons by not torqueing the cam gear bolt properly. MORE tricks to do that right, and keep her running. You don't need IPD or RSI cams for a non Turbo DD that just needs to get out of it's own way a bit.

Nope, John isn't mad..... he's just seen this movie too many times ;-)
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How is the V cam in comparison to the B?


And to satisfy everyone:
Name: Pablo
Age: 20
Experience with general car service: auto service classes in HS, interned at a shop
Experience with Bricks: none
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Thank you, I think I'll go with the V cam. Would it be recommended to get a cam and swap it while I have the timing belt replaced?
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The belt must come off to R&R the cam, so yes. Also suggested to change seals at the front of the engine (crank & aux. shaft) IF they show signs of leaking. If they are grey color rubber lip, and don't leak, leave them alone. Even tho the V cam might show small differences in lift/duration, I doubt you will be able to feel any difference between them.
 
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