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Matty's 760T build

, i think there is a conversion kit to ditch the nivomats- then lower but in my opinion the 7xx is perfect height factory, actually i raised my rear a little- cause i like stompin:)
as far as the pegs they will look sweet but ride like **** -especially if with a stiff set up- i had to ditch the 17s and step down just for comfort
 
Nice ride! I think it sucks that your dealership had to jack the price of the car up for a manager employee.
16" wheels with 205/55 tires will make a big improvement in handling. Look for front improved front sway bar and new shocks (struts).
 
I wanted to update this thread with the current situation. The car has been sitting in my driveway, untouched for the past 4 months and they haven't been kind to the ole girl. I decided to make this my daily driver and put some cheap new tires on it and get the AC re-charged. Long story short, I've got a few issues to fix first. I'm going to be buying a new Ac ompressor, wheels and tires, turbo, cam and all of that is going in the car with my "stage 0" install (shooting for next week once everything arrives).

There's a local Volvo guy near me who is going to show me the Swedish ropes. I'm willing to invest a significant amount of cash in the car once I know it's going to run like brand new. Right now it's a little tight and sloppy at the same time. I want to get it sorted out first before jumping in it with both feet. Once I get the parts in I'll post some more pics. After we get them installed I'll get pics of the new body work.
 
Remember that you have IRS and although IPD made a rear sway, it's very rare.
The rear springs are lighter, the ride height is maintained by the Nivomat shocks, which are expensive. As mentioned above you can convert to regular dia springs and 'normal' type shocks but the car won't ride so well.
The front susp is the same as 740, so you can work with those things/parts/ideas.
 
I dont have IRS, but I am just curious. Is it possible to just bolt an entire JY rearend/suspension in from a 740? Axle and all?
 
I forgot to mention it's a 1-owner (little old lady) all original, no accidents. I picked it up for $1k and haven't regretted a penny of it. Since buying it I've added a nice double-din cd/mp3 player and bought new speakers and a 4ch amp to go in it. Everything works, all power accessories like heated seats and sunroof.

I'm doing the "stage 0" mods right now. I just ordered $300 worth of everything to get it back up to tip-top. Once I get that knocked out I'm going to focus on a new 16g turbo and supporting hardware for it.

I'm really struggling to find any decent suspension bits for the 760. Plenty of good mods for the 740 though. I'm also having to hold off on ordering brakes until I can determine which calipers I have on the car. I've been too lazy to go take the wheels off.

Power is easier in these cars than many and the potential is limitless..
First thing I'd do is pull the wheels, and junk them cause they're only 15".
You absolutely NEED minimum 8 x 18

I'll PM you an address where the wheels can be safely disposed of where others won't be harmed by them...

With a little thought and discussion the rear suspension can be made to work a lot better than most here can imagine and retain a decent ride.. Front is easy, but again a little discussion beyond "slap in Bilstein HDs and 400 lb springs."
 
Thanks for the compliments and advice. I've been online buying up tons of parts the past 2 days and still need lots more. I'm VERY interested in getting the suspension sorted out. I've owned multiple RX7's, mazdaspped cars and I'm not used to the floating feeling of the feeling or the body roll. I'd like to firm it up some while still keeping that posh ride. Not too hard, not too soft.

John V, I'm trying to buy a set of 17x7 Peg's off a local forum member here. I think that should be a big improvement over the stockers. I'm not sure an 18" wouldn't have a negative effect on ride comfort. I know (from past experiences) that a 17" is a pretty good compromise between looks and comfort. I'd love to talk suspension with you whenever you have the time.


Here's what all I bought recently:
NGK iridium IX plugs
NGK plug wires
dist. cap
rotor button
trans. filter kit
thermostat+gasket (180* for the alabama summer)
power window switch (drivers side stopped working for some reason)
timing belt comp. kit
ac belt
ps belt
alt belt
water pump + gasket
ac compressor
receiver dryer
orifice tube
compressor hose
(2) new CHEAP tires (needed something badly for the time being)
slotted A-cam (don't know anything about the cam but a local volvo friend told me it's what I needed)

Thing left to purchase:
new taillight housings (I think moisture is getting in there and causing bulbs to not work)
drivers seat switches/motors (used to work, now won't move forward or back)
rebuilt turbo (think a local owner here is selling me his 16G)
full detail (critical importance for me!)
turbo/intercooler piping (I'd prefer a nice solid hard pipe kit but new rubber ones at least)
suspension upgrades (I'd like to lower slightly and reduce body roll entirely. Not too much to ask for!)

If anyone has any of these parts for sale let me know!!

Thanks
 
update:

parts now in stock! Just ordered a new 15g from "tryingbe" and I'm picking up my new pegasus R's tomorrow after class. Getting fresh rubber on them thursday. I've also bought a slotted a-cam so I'll hopefully start installing all of these parts this weekend. Next week is paint/body work!! Getting very close to being finished!!
 

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the tails are one year only and very hard to find. 740's 90-92 which look the same but are shorter may fit, I'm not sure. But the issue may be an easy fix, depending on if they have a metal plate that carries all current, or a floppy circuit board. If the former let me know and I'll point out some fixes.

Orifice tube, there is a variable one that works better esp in traffic.
 
i'm going to take the lamps apart this weekend and test each socket and bulb to determine if it's the bulb, the circuit board or moisture inside the housing (i doubt). Either way, fixing this should resolve my in-op cruise control issue I'm having.
 
Went to the dealer and was able to purchase the left hand circuit board (right is discontinued). I installed it and viola! I no have a complete set of lights in the car!

Sadly though, this did not fix my cruise control issue like I was thinking it would. Now I have to try to diagnose this problem on my own. Not looking forward to that at all!

p.s. anyone else think I should put a set of IPD lowering springs on JUST the front of this hooptie? For some reason it looks like it's sitting lower in the rear than the front. Maybe the nivomat has gone out?? Either way I can't afford to lower the back anymore without rolling the fenders.
 

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Isn't the 740 CC vacuum operated/has vacuum controls on pedals like the 240s?
 
I don't know what you're saying. There is a diaphragm off the throttle body that holds the throttle for cruise. Mine seems good (no splits, cracks, dry rot). To be honest I don't know if the switch is even working. I've tried it in all positions at any speed above 50mph and I get nothing, no light on the dash, no cruise effect. I'm sure it's something simple just have to figure out which simple problem it is!
 
I'm not that familiar with 740 CC. But on my 240 there are vacuum switches(mines manual so has 2), and vacuum hoses under dash on brake & clutch pedals "stop"bracket.

The switches are on a bracket, and pedals "bump them" to make CC contact. When pedal lever to switch plunger contact is lost, when pedal is depressed, CC disengages(safety feature)

I find the switche's bracket is easy to bend, and that proper clutch pedal postion & clutch cable adjustment is key to making my 240 CC work properly.

But like I said 740 may be different dunno.

Look under dash by the brake(&/or clutch) pedals, and look for a black plunger switch where the pedal(Clutch or Brake or both ) "seats" when at rest .

There are of course wires going to these swithes and switches are adjustable. There are also vacuum hoses there by switches too. Check to see they are in place.

My CC on my 240 has acted up, and this is where I found the problem to be.
 
Been a long time without an update. Since it's 3:17am here and I just walked in from working on the car now's as good a time as any.

With the help of a local volvo friend I went ahead and did all of the Stage0 mods/work. While doing the timing belt and waterpump we installed the a-cam (supposed to be a bump in power). Replaced all V-belts with brand new units. I had already done the brand new ngk plugs and wires, cap, rotor, button, fuel filter, oil change, trans service (full pan drop) and rear diff svc.

After putting the car back together I noticed a large oil leak from the cam seal. We started checking a lot of things but decided the PCV system was in need of replacement. I ordered a new oil separator, hose, y-fitting and gasket. Got everything installed and the leak persisted. I decided that somehow too much pressure was being built-up in the valve cover and forcing the oil out of the cap/seal. I picked up a spare valve cover and tapped it with a 3/8 brass fitting. I ran the line from the VC to my newly installed ebay $16 catch can. The outlet hose is run out of a ,perfectly placed, hole in the chassis to the ground. This will assure that excess pressure could not possibly build up in the VC anymore.

The car is starting to look GREAT and I'm eager to get it back on the road again so I can get the AC system leak-tested and recharged. I fire the car up this morning (2am) and notice it's spraying fuel from the rear injector. Somehow I've managed to pinch the o-ring when putting everything back together. So $17 later I've ordered a complete set of o-rings to re-do the entire rail and I'll be spending all day putting out that fire (pun intended).

There's only a few things left on my plate for this brick. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

1. Injector leaks (should be fixed tomorrow)
2. Install new turbo (next week)
3. custom paint/body work (next week also)
4. obx exhaust (a few weeks)

As I'm going through the car I'm picking up a few new bushings here and there and replacing all the worn out rubber a few pieces at a time. Every little part makes the car feel just a bit better and I know it'll be a gem when I'm all finished.

I'll get some new pics up once I get her back on the road daily.
 
uh oh....new turbo got installed today! Going to get everything snugged back up and take it over to the local garage to get the AC system diagnosed (big leak, won't hold a vacuum. Have to find out why). After that I'm taking it to my detail to get re-detailed. I'll take some good "before" pictures and then start on the paint/body work.

Getting very excited to have this Swedish beast back on the road soon!
 
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