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b230ft K cam required mods

Shifted said:
See post #2.

If you're this inexperienced then you really have no business talking about 19t's and "300whp range".

Highly suggest you learn to walk before you try to fly.

No offense.
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Inexperienced with Volvos, that's about it. I've been working on cars or a while, just new to the Volvo game.
 
IWantedAnAE86 said:
Inexperienced with Volvos, that's about it. I've been working on cars or a while, just new to the Volvo game.
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Pardon once again, but your line of questioning does not reflect a great deal of experience. We can tell, that's all.

I'll clarify: If you do install this cam (or any other), what you'll need to do is measure every valve clearance, then add/remove/swap shims as necessary to obtain the proper clearances. If you fail to do this you risk excessive clearances which can at best cause lots of noise, and much worse too tight clearances which will result in burned valves. The worst case of incorrect installation can see the cam likely fail within a very short time, and quite possibly damage other components within the head and elsewhere as it self-destructs.

So in a word, "No". You can't just "slap the thing in".

Look at the IPD shim kit that VG123 mentioned to get a better idea of what it is, and search 'shimming for valve clearance' to learn more. Briefly, there are many many different thicknesses of shims that need to be stacked/mixed/matched until the exact clearance is obtained for each valve.

?
 
Shifted said:
Pardon once again, but your line of questioning does not reflect a great deal of experience. We can tell, that's all.

I'll clarify: If you do install this cam (or any other), what you'll need to do is measure every valve clearance, then add/remove/swap shims as necessary to obtain the proper clearances. If you fail to do this you risk excessive clearances which can at best cause lots of noise, and much worse too tight clearances which will result in burned valves. The worst case of incorrect installation can see the cam likely fail within a very short time, and quite possibly damage other components within the head and elsewhere as it self-destructs.

So in a word, "No". You can't just "slap the thing in".

Look at the IPD shim kit that VG123 mentioned to get a better idea of what it is, and search 'shimming for valve clearance' to learn more. Briefly, there are many many different thicknesses of shims that need to be stacked/mixed/matched until the exact clearance is obtained for each valve.

?
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How do my questions "not reflect a great deal of experience"? You can really tell that much about a person just from one post?

I understand how shimming works mate, I didn't start this thread with a "what's shimming?". And thank you for repeating what other actually helpful users already told me. Your input was greatly appreciated :roll:
 
IWantedAnAE86 said:
How do my questions "not reflect a great deal of experience"? You can really tell that much about a person just from one post?

I understand how shimming works mate, I didn't start this thread with a "what's shimming?". And thank you for repeating what other actually helpful users already told me. Your input was greatly appreciated :roll:
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Yes.

Maybe you should have.

There won't be any more.

Good luck//
 
Last edited:
Most here do know that a 19T on a redblock will not net 300HP. 20g will put you just at or under 300 with the right setup. A properly matched aftermarket turbo will net you the best results. Holsets are fairly cheap, and could handle the task.
 
Yeah, like the others mentioned, you have to measure each lash. There should not be a "one size" shim to buy and place it in, its a used cam so it probably has wear, along with your valves. I suggest taking it to a shop that does heads, they should have shims readily available and to be honest it would save you the headache of "loaner" tools. Just my .02
 
IWantedAnAE86 said:
Maybe I should start a thread asking how to wipe my ass too
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Maybe you should be a little more tolerant of people that are trying to help you. You obviously had no idea how shimming works or the reason you would need to actually measure clearances and utilize the proper shim for each cam lobe. Give us an example of some other cars where you've checked valve clearance and how you adjusted it if necessary. I know how to adjust the valves in my Toyota 2zz-ge and there's no shims involved. If you took some quiet time, per your previous post, and actually did some research you would find that n/a cams are not the best cams to slap into a turbo engine, Google overlap and see what information that gets you.
 
John V said:
Hey what CAR? Only difference is a slot.
Volvosteelcamcores11.jpg


What car dud the B230Ft come from...

You're going to use the hottest of all the OEM normal aspirated cams in a B230FT????

Yes you will 99% certainly need shims. and 100% you'll need to check

Yes I have a good source of springs good to 7000..

But you have lots to explain first
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WOW those cams have all the duration and lift!
 
gross polluter said:
The terms K cam and "hot" don't really go together.

Good luck making power past 5600 rpm with that cam.
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The only time I ever drove a car with a K cam it was a NA B23E and that certainly felt lively up to 6000 RPM. Years ago someone tested a bunch of different cams in a Volvo turbo and came to the conclusion that the K was not really ideal for a turbo motor but IIRC the issue was at the low end, not high RPM. Personally I value low RPM torque much more than top end power but my cars are daily drivers that I use for getting around, hauling stuff and in the case of my 242 I occasionally pull a utility trailer so torque is valuable to me. I don't race or go ricing around, hell I'm lucky if I can even reach the speed limit with all the traffic around here these days.
 
For a cheap cam, I've always liked the K. Today's prices for one, there are better options, but back when they were $50-75 they were hard to beat the bang for the buck.
 
As much as I like turbos, there's something appealing about a nice lively NA motor, that B23E felt really good to drive. The car wasn't as fast as a turbo car but it felt good to drive and that's the important part IMO.
 
James10952001 said:
As much as I like turbos, there's something appealing about a nice lively NA motor, that B23E felt really good to drive. The car wasn't as fast as a turbo car but it felt good to drive and that's the important part IMO.
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They are real fun until a beat old k-jet turbo comes up on your bumper and toys with you by playing with his BOV while you are still flat on the floor. And that was a fairly built (more than most here do anyways) n/a 2.6 stroker, probably around 200hp.
 
^This. There's a reason why I got rid of the car that contained the engine James10952001 is talking about. It felt like a B23F after driving my old silver '82 242T before I even added the intercooler kit. That said, it did pull strongly for a NA engine all the way to 6500 rpm in 1st. So did the B230F that I dropped a different K cam into. Unfortunately, kinda hit a wall at 5800 rpm when the rev limiter was hit. From 2000 rpm on up, decent amount of grunt, tho.

I do have a K cam (that I bought for $25 from PnP) installed in the B23FT that's going into my current 242Ti (his brother's old car). Specs are somewhat similar to the iPd turbo cam, except for the dual profiles. So, we'll see how peaky it is with the 2.3 liters versus how it felt when one of the original TB'ers put it into a B21FT and discovered no lower end power.

-J
 
I like a car that has a bit of power but I don't care about competing with someone to see who's dick is bigger. If they want to go faster they're welcome to pass me. Lots of classic sports cars were not all that quick by modern standards and you have to do a lot of mods to get an old Volvo to come close to a lot of modern sports cars in terms of performance but I'd still rather drive the Volvo.
 
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