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72 142 Turbo Project

CJs 142E

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Location
Portland OR,
Welcome to my 72 142E B240FT Build Thread

I hope this is a better forum for some more feed back and discussion

OK! So What!? It's been awhile.. Over 3 years! I know..

I have no excuses.. Obsessions cost money, Go figure!? UPDATE: 7/30/14 Looking for Body and paint work and someone with electrical skills.. Pm me send me pic's or your work..

So I have some pic here of before and after. Work will progress this summer hopefully to a completed and Beyond Awesome 72 142 Turbo. The parts and needed paint job are waiting on the sale of my 91 945 (Inserted Shameless Plug / Advertizing here) http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=298518

This project got started when I was hit in the rear in late August 09 and pulled the driveline out and sold it.. Found a low mileage B230 Block and have been piecing it together when I get the $$ or time. I got a FORD T5 WC from Kyle over at The V Shop.. Had RSI Install Eng / Trans. Then it sat in my garage for over a year waiting for me to find work.:wtf:

This was the crazy snow storm of 08



Then the sun came out. :cool:




Then a 16 year kid driving on a Learners Permit with his mom, did this. Ouch!!


And here



And this.. It's been hit before



Here is the turbo mock-up



More pic's coming soon.. No Really!:roll:

Here is a link to my 142 Group

http://forums.turbobricks.com/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=298
 
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Parts search list..

Intake or Exhaust work
Electrical & Wiring LH2.2
Interior electrical and dash wiring
Oil Cooler set up.
Break Booster Fab to clear intake or remote system..?
Intercooler and Piping
Dizzy
Breaking upgrade.
 
Looks like it'll be a good bit of fun...

How are you mounting that Turbo Redblock?

Custom mounts or Yoshifab Vintage Adapters?
 
Great looking car! So whats the plan, body work/paint or engine mechanical first?

UPDATE: Finally out of storage and body work started. Going though parts and getting inventory list made up.. PIC's to come soon..!!

Big question looming is Body work or Engine? Have most parts needed to complete engine swap but, I'm leaning more to getting body done first..?? :mods:
 


Back side look'n good! No junk in that trunk! No, really! I have no junk in the trunk.:omg:


Turbolicious power jacket with cone wheelie dealie.. Swoosh!!!!
 
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I think I've seen this car driving around...

You did some awesome work on the rear, especially considering what had happened... Did you just use a lot of hammer/mallets to get it to look like that? (I would imagine there is some bondo as well)

Can't wait to see it complete.

:cheers:
 
I think I've seen this car driving around...

You did some awesome work on the rear, especially considering what had happened... Did you just use a lot of hammer/mallets to get it to look like that? (I would imagine there is some bondo as well)

Can't wait to see it complete.

:cheers:

Rear body work was done by some friends of mine.. Thanks to Steve, Tyler and Scott Awesome guy's good work... They completely replaced the rear panel. And it hasn't seen the road since 09 :cries:
 
Do the body. Before its too far gone. Mechanical can be done at any pace afterwards.

Jordan


Thanks, I'm down with that. ANYONE want to help educate me and come out and help?:omg:
Pizza and Beer or $$ I will pay. Or if you need work on a Brick I'm down with trades. It needs to be prepped and shot.
 
what all needs to be done? I'd say that the first step before "bodywork" is gonna be strip it, so 60 or 80 on a DA and go to town until all paint is gone. Then grab something at the paint shop to "find" the dings. Some use a "blocking" primer… I use a black high build 2k primer sealer (epoxy) and shoot it with 1 even coat 50% overlap on a pretty light setting. then grab the longest, flattest blocks to cover the big areas and round blocks for smaller, and a tear drop block for awkward body lines. Then cross hatch with big strokes with pressure applied on the down stroke until all the dents are left black and the rest is clean metal. then you can hammer out dents or if you have an acetylene torch you can "heat suck" the dents ( a little tricky, bucket of ice water, couple rags soaking, heat the dent until it glows, and place rag on it for a few seconds, if it doesn't have a crease or its not too deep they "pop" right back) when hammering, if you can get to the back of the dent with a dolly, hod dolly in the middle of dent and lightly hammer around the dolly, not plinking on the dolly (we want the dolly to be the one pressing the dent out) if its a high spot (really gouged up from your initial blocking) we want to hammer on dolly (listen for a plink) after all dents have been gone over, spray and block again… fix anything that was missed. Then reassemble the whole thing, and grab your body filler, mix up a bit and using a very wide spreader, skim coat the whole car, with a thin coat at most 1/16-1/8". Block with 60 grit paper, cross hatching again, then skim (even thinner) and block with 150, then spray it with 2 coats of high build, throw another coat of a DIFFERENT color on and block with 320, you should not have any more dents, then wet sand with 600, and paint away!

So, I usually drink double mountain, but just about any IPA or IRA is good ;-)
 
Thank you cwdodson88.. Lot of good stuff there. I do have a few spots of rust peeking from a seem or two. The hood and top have very small hail dings, not very noticeable but would love to get it as straight as I can.. I'm debating on replacing the front grill section as there is a good baseball size ding in it. And a good 6+ in rust hole in the drivers side door jam.
Isn't that double mountain that dark
chocolatey ale? :gulp:
 
Double Mountain is a local Brewery in Hood River Oregon, and they do have a chocolate stout I think... as for the ding in the grill, try beating it out, working back and fourth around the dent. It may take a few tries to get it back and the worst you can do is ruin it and buy another one. The rust hole, well that sucks. My cheap a$s welder just blows holes in old Swedish steel, but you'll need to just cut it out and weld a patch in. If your welder does what mine does, I just turn it waaayyy down and tack the piece in and clean it up, then tack in between each tack, and go round and round in a criss cross (so it doesn't warp too bad) until they almost touch, then grind it smooth, and go over all the holes until its filled. The hail dings could be taken out with the "heat suck" method, but I just picked up a "ding King" at a yard sale for FREE, and you could have it if you want it fits in a Med flat rate box.
 
The hail dings could be taken out with the "heat suck" method, but I just picked up a "ding King" at a yard sale for FREE, and you could have it if you want it fits in a Med flat rate box.

Thanks again. I have to admit, I'm not much of a body guy but, eager to learn more.
I have not heard of a "ding king".. But let me know what shipping would be.?
And thanks a bunch for the advice.
 
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