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7/9 Updated Heater Control Valve

Update, since it's actually cold now (37*F on the drive to work).

Warmup time for the engine seems to be unaffected with the heater on full hot and blower on high. Temp from the vents is warmer and it has very limited variance depending on fan speed.

Temp from the plastic/alum heater core is actually closer to what the temp was with the all metal core now. Yay, heat this winter! I actually had to turn the temp down a little on the drive in, after turning the fan completely off, since it was staying quite warm inside the car.
 
I'm running one on my Gray car so far so good. I can't say that it's working better because my heater blend box control is broken and my blower motor is frozen, but when I get that stuff repaired it's gona be great.
 
I love this. I want to do it on a 240 but I'm having trouble figuring out how to actuate the vacuum valve.

edit: perhaps via the foot button? who uses the foot button when the AC is on? Nobody likes cold feet.
 
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volvogeek said:
I love this. I want to do it on a 240 but I'm having trouble figuring out how to actuate the vacuum valve.
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you need a heat/vent/fan control panel out of a 73' 140 (or other market 240), the heat/cold adjustment were vacume operated, not cable like the 74 140 and all US market 240's. i just went and looked to see if i have any left, but can't find one, maybe check with redwood chair or jimjmorris to see if they still have any.
 
Mine control valve just broke changing hoses so I think i'm going to try this. To clarify the two ports furthest from the vacuum bulb go inline of the lower return line, the two ports closest to the vacuum bulb go in the upper supply line (stock location), correct? Were you able to use stock hoses, or did you have to buy some random bends to make it work? The stock valve sits with the port running vertically while this one it appears you have installed so they sit horizontally. Makes sense to T into the return line, but I assume you need to get a little more creative with the supply? Thanks.
 
You are correct on the installation direction. There's also a flow direction, should be marked on the valve, that'll need to go the same way as the stock one. You can run the factory hoses just fine, but you will need to cut out about 1.5" from the lower one to make room for the valve.
 
jerryc said:
So some basics that I think I gleaned; use this valve, GrpA the holes in the head, use a Hepu pump, and for a low/mid hp DD all will be fine, forever. That about right? :)
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If you're gonna use a Hepu pump, buy all Volvo seals.... the top seal provided croaks within one year.


....of course, Hepu pump plus Volvo seals is more or less equal to Volvo pump in cost.

-Ryan
 
So I just did this, had to hack up the hoses a little but it worked out nicely. The one thing I noticed though, was that it made no sense to install the valve with the flow of the coolant running the direction of the flow arrow on the valve. Installed that way it will act exactly like the stock valve, stopping flow at the valve. You have to install it backwards, so when the heat is off, it allows the flow of coolant to recirc as intended.

In looking at your install pics, you appear to have it in the same way I do (correctly) but the flow arrow is actually pointing towards the passenger side (not drivers side.) Not sure how exactly this is plumbed into the GMCs it was intended for, but clearly different for our application.

Thanks again for posting this, very glad I found it!

Ryan
 
mels said:
Eliminated mine after it blew a couple years ago. ('87 745)
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I considered this, but I didn't want hot air blowing in on the highway, also my AC still works, so I didnt want to make that less effective either. So far the 4 port valve works as the 2 port for climate control, and I would imagine the pressure the valve is under is a lot less since and the back of the head has got to be cooler. We'll see how long it lasts.
 
I found about a 20* drop in temps on the back of the head, with a much more even temp spread vs. the stock valve (hooray for IR thermometers). Also the constant flow should allow for less pressure buildup.

Glad this thing seems to be getting out there a little more. Just about a year on mine, still doing well.
 
The only problem I ran into is the ports seem to be a bit bigger than 5/8". I didnt measure them, but it was MUCH harder to get the heater hose on the ports of the new valve than the old valve. It kinda gets in the way of my trans dip stick too, but not too bad. I probably just didn't cut enough hose off the return line.

Overall, Thumbsup. Anything is better than the ****ty valve that was in there. THat thing popping was an annual occurance.
 
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