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1987 244 DL Autocrosser

Spent the whole day figuring out how to make this work as well as possible. Upper perch is 2.25" exhaust pipe welded to a piece of 16ga sheet metal. The diameter is small enough to allow for the zip ties that hold the main spring and tender spring together with a coupler between to keep them aligned. Length of the upper perch is about 3", so the springs can't fall out at full droop and so the tender has a guide to keep it compressing evenly. The upper and lower perches are not parallel, so there is some bending noticeable at the bottom of the main spring. Might work on that later. The lower adjuster is out of the spring collection from Kaplhenke Racing.

8" x 2.5" x 250lb main spring, 1.75" travel, 2.5"dia, 150lb tender spring. The tender is almost fully compressed at ride height, so with a slight bit of roll I'm on the main spring @ 250lb once the tender binds.

I test drove it twice with the 275/45/16 tires on the back, and I had some rubs that I think are fixed, so tomorrow will be the big test.

Still have to change the 21mm front bar for a 25mm at the event tomorrow. Might be picking up some stiffer springs to try on the front. Already found a deal on a pair of 8x300 and 7x350 for testing on the rear.

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The autox went great today! Towerys car is much better with the tender springs in the back, the lower ride height, and the 25mm front bar. He still needs to finish the fender clearance or add a bit more spacer.
Towery took 1st and I took 2nd.

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Epic tire rub? Car would fill with smoke after a particularly long off camber sweeper. A little distracting, but no serious damage to the tires. Thinking about thicker adapters actually. I'll have to see how much thread I have available and if 5mm looks safe, and looks like enough. Wouldn't mind bumping 'em out 8mm per side if it means no more clearance issues at all. Also wouldn't mind having the same style adapters I have on the front which have longer studs and a taller lip to better hold the wheel when tightening the lugs.

Bne had 1st with a 56.2 after his third run, but then I went 55.6 just before the rain started. We couldn't make significant improvements on 4th, and I actually went better til going off course from taking the fastest corner too fast, so no improvement. 3rd was 56.4. 4th was ??? and teh bimmer was 57 or 58 with the front swaybar endlinks tied in knots.

Car drove nice. I didn't feel the massive wheel spin from the inside tire like last time. I never noticed any one-wheel-peel, but I was really focused on the stink of burning rubber, so I'll have to fix this and reexamine the diff next event. I think it's easier to drive someone elses car when there's a problem, and more difficult to drive through it when it's your own. At least it is for me. Fortunately I didn't come in 2nd and use this as an excuse.

The softer rear and tenders was definitely a step in the right direction, but the work is not done. I'll probably try the 5mm spacers at the next event, along with some work with the sledge hammer and grinder. Also hoping to install the RX7 calipers & 740 11.25" rotors for the next event. I have all the parts, so no excuses now.
 
Bne had 1st with a 56.2 after his third run, but then I went 55.6 just before the rain started. We couldn't make significant improvements on 4th, and I actually went better til going off course from taking the fastest corner too fast, so no improvement. 3rd was 56.4. 4th was ??? and teh bimmer was 57 or 58 with the front swaybar endlinks tied in knots.

bimmer ended up in 3rd and we had a bigger gap then we thought.

Towery was 56.777,
I was 56.210
Peter in the BMW was 57.64
RS Impreza was 57.770
 
51mm fred adapters front, 35mm bne adapters rear. Soon to sandwich in some IPD 5mm spacers on the rear.
 
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#1 PAX was a CRX on street tires in ST...55.969. I'm SLOW if I can only beat that by a few tenths.

Pick up 1 sec and I'm top 20. Pick up 3sec and I'm #1. I think I'll set my sights on top 25, and I'll be satisfied if I can maintain top 37, although I have no doubt that there's more time left in the current setup.
 
Yes. Drivetrain/driveline is open with the exception that the engine block must be from the same manufacturer as the original engine in the car. There are restrictions on how the engine cross member can be modified, but the trans is open to almost anything I would think.
 
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