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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

Nice man, The best thing that I did was re-wire the 940 two speed relay, the Saab temp switch now controls the high speed, and the AC pressure switch controls the low. Seems to be alright for now.

SAAB tee in the suction (return) hose? What switch did you use, the 82*C or the 92*C?

I just made the same change to my 940, but I triggered (grounded) the low speed fan.... left the high speed as designed on the 9s, AC condenser high pressure. I can already see the gains for around town / traffic.... the low speed fan would seemingly never come on sitting in the garage during tuning sessions.... now it cycles regularly, more like a SAAB 900.

"I am also loving this 242"......:)
 
SAAB tee in the suction (return) hose? What switch did you use, the 82*C or the 92*C?

I just made the same change to my 940, but I triggered (grounded) the low speed fan.... left the high speed as designed on the 9s, AC condenser high pressure. I can already see the gains for around town / traffic.... the low speed fan would seemingly never come on sitting in the garage during tuning sessions.... now it cycles regularly, more like a SAAB 900.

"I am also loving this 242"......:)

T is in the lower suction side, 82* switch, 87* thermostat, seems to cycle fine, temp is consistent 9 o?clock on the gauge with the bypass.

I contemplated wiring it back to the ecu like the factory, but my research lead me to believe it would run warmer than what I have. Which I don?t want.
 
This past Friday night I changed out all of the heater and radiator hoses for silicone pieces from IPD and DO88. I also changed the heater valve to a Europartshouse conversion, as well as a stainless pass through from STS machining.

PICS!

(my neighbor asked me if the hood ever closed :rofl:)
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Afterwards I buttoned her up and took it for a spin. So far so good!
While I dove into this, I also changed from the older intake with the cold start to a late model without, as well as ditched the EGR system and plugged the exhaust manifold with an oil pan bolt from the HELP section in Oreilly's (M18x1.5 is the correct thread pitch for the exhaust if you remove the adapter that is also in there).

TBH, I'm running out of things I want to do to this, and that feels good. Wasted Spark is next on the list. :oogle:

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So good. IMO you didn't overshoot what the platform's sweet spot is, you just took what makes these cars great and cranked it up. Well done man.

Thank you for the kind words!

In other news, last night I cut up my brand new aluminum door cards to install JBL 6.5" component speaker system with crossovers. Totally worth it. :cool:
 
The stock 99-02 Viggen 2.3 turbo was rated at 252 lb-ft of torque with an organic disk, you may just be over that by a bit :)

Go with a ceramic or feramic disk if you can. The kevlar disks are not tolerant to being slipped, as they have a lower heat capacity than even an organic disk. The kevlar disk in the rally car was glazed after about 10 events with the NA 8v. Saab 215/228 PP and a cheap organic disk have been fine with the high comp 16v and now the b230ft.
When the rally car gets the bigger turbo, it's getting a ceramic or feramic disk just to be safe. They're about $180-250.
 
Clutch is on the back burner until I decide what I want to do vs what my pocket book wants to do.

In other news, all of this LH24/G80 speedo talk prompted me to take another look at the speedo in the car.

I verified working condition on the speedometer itself today using a low voltage AC power transformer, the 60hz spun it right at the 22 mph mark which according to Art is right on the money. So, I changed the elecrolytic caps to make sure it would last another 25 years, rechecked operation out of the cluster and that was good. The damn thing still doesn't work in the cluster.

I wired up the speedo in my car according to the 1986 greenbook, however I do have a question.

I ran two wires from the sensor straight to the L plug, and then tapped the R-SB wire to ignition source, does the "SB" wire need to be grounded somewhere? I was unable to deduce if there was an internal ground somewhere that I did not know about or?

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I mean, it seems like everything is there to work, it's just is not :roll:

This is using a 240 sensor, on a G80 diff with the windows cut. So I am sorting that now as well.
 
does the "SB" wire need to be grounded somewhere? I was unable to deduce if there was an internal ground somewhere that I did not know about or?

The wiring diagram definitely indicates that you need to earth it to the body of the car somewhere. The speed pick-up sensor needs to be earthed, the speedo itself needs to be earth, they are simply earthed at the same location to reduce any interference in the signal.
 
I plopped a set of quad squares on the car while I repaint the grill and surrounds.

THIS is how these cars are supposed to look as far as I am concerned, but the Mrs likes the rounds, so it may go back. I would like to find a GL grill sometime soon.

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Ugh...I have a flathood acquired for my '83 and I've already converted to single-rounds, but these pics are making me second-guess that decision...
 
I plopped a set of quad squares on the car while I repaint the grill and surrounds.

THIS is how these cars are supposed to look as far as I am concerned, but the Mrs likes the rounds, so it may go back. I would like to find a GL grill sometime soon.

Your car will look sweet no matter which grille & light setup it has, but there is something to be said for keeping the original late single round setup. It's much better integrated into the design of the car than the early singe round design. Plus it's cool that they only offered this combination of front & rear designs for 2 years (1979 and 80) if I'm not mistaken, with the smoother single round setup and the nice redesigned tail with the flat trunk and 5-panels. It's the "most pure" version of the 242 IMO.
 
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