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Old 09-29-2019, 11:26 AM   #20
redblockpowered
cone dodging dilettante
 
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: In bed, probably
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Most likely the leak will be found in your condenser, as this is where the "high pressure" lives.

Did you dealership check pull a full vacuum on the car, and how long did you hold it? Bare minimum of 15 minutes, and I like 30 better. A good leak free system won't budge the vacuum needle in that period of time.

If a prior compressor died, then the metal shrapnel will be inside you condenser, and ultimately in the orifice tube (game over). Lucky for you the Taiwan replacements are just over $100. I would not suspect any issues with your evaporator, as that is the low pressure side.
I know a full vacuum was pulled, but not for very long since this was done for free as a favor. I have an orifice tube to put in but motivation to repair the A/C has dwindled since things have been cooling down up here.

I recently lost the odometer of this car at 183k miles, unfortunately. Disassembly revealed a very burnt PCB (conducts electricity, often to places where it should not go) on the speedometer, likely due to capacitor failure. I tried twice to repair it but failed both times. I think one of the proprietary ICs in the board broke after the cap failure and caused the failure. I can't seem to find a replacement so I've purchased another cluster from 2manyturbos here on the board. I'll keep the other one around in the meantime in case I figure out a repair method.

I raced the car in August with the New England Region SCCA. I had a great time and found it to be effective as a diagnostic tool for both car and driver. I'd like to work on the car's initial turn-in, likely by way of larger front sway bar before I move on to stiffer springs. It left a lot to be desired in front-end grip and overall balance relative to the 240 chassis I am used to but I feel confident that I can do a reasonable job rectifying that. My back of the envelope math seems to indicate that the front wheel rate is about half what it's supposed to be to be "balanced" with the rear rate, so I'll have to see what I can do to (incrementally) add front roll stiffness. After autocross I changed out the control rod bushings for the cop/taxi/ambulance bushings, replacing the likely original ones that had to be removed with fire, a chisel, and a wire wheel. It feels smoother in transition now most notably although there are still more bushings to change.

If you want to watch a stock 940 plow around, video of my second and third passes can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUJwcZ2IYI0

In addition, some catching up. Here are the minor jobs that I did and didn't take pictures of because they were pretty trivial:
Front seatbelt buttons
HD rear springs (measured to be the same wire diameter as wagon springs)
Plugs, cap and rotor (head mounted distributor caps are pricey yikes)
PCV breather box/oil trap/intake gasket
Driveshaft center bearing and support (with trans swap)
Driveshaft giubo (see above)
Reverse light switch (see above)
Rear main seal (see above)
Parking brake shoes/axle cables (was metal on metal before)
Oil cap gasket
Horn terminals, with very useful Volvo patch wiring kit
Valve adjustment
Oil pan gasket
Belly pan
Retorqued rattling factory exhaust
CHMSL cover (only available new in gray, replacing a black one for my black interior but it seems like the rear seatbelt mount shelf thing was gray anyway so I'm not going to sweat it)

This all either came from Volvo or OE suppliers depending on price difference, except for the belly pan which I bought aftermarket because I couldn't justify 10x the price for a part whose only job is to have a somewhat specific shape and not fall off.
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1993 944 B230FT/M90 thread here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=345277
2x 1991 245 B230F/M47 (LeMons car, street car)
I sell chips for LH 2.4!

Last edited by redblockpowered; 09-29-2019 at 12:08 PM..
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