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Old 09-30-2019, 06:10 PM   #21
redblockpowered
cone dodging dilettante
 
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: In bed, probably
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Well, it seems like it's about time to start writing about the transmission swap. I'm planning on this being a guide for "proper" execution of the swap, with part numbers/sources/prices so it may take a while.

Note: I got a somewhat comprehensive M90 setup from Classic Swede, which included the M90 (a 97 M90L2), clutch fork, clutch release bearing (knackered but comes into play later), giubo, driveshaft front half, RHD pedal box, master cylinder, slave cylinder. This ran me about $800 at August 2018 exchange rates. I found this by attempting to contact literally every M90 seller on the Internet in the hopes they would ship their setup to me. Despite the oft-repeated "you'll never find one" stories it took not more than a week or two. My strategy was to contact as many foreign salvage yards as I could find as well as private sellers on Tradera and Blocket, the Swedish equivalents to our eBay and Craigslist and a reliable source for pretty neat stuff for our cars. Our very own DET17 actually contacted me with a complete setup but the price scared me off. Of course, I ended up paying an almost identical amount anyway and likely did it with exactly the same stuff. Oh well. Anyway, on to the swap...

Start by jacking the car up. I put it on jackstands in my parents' driveway. It was like this for about six weeks. They're very kind. A lift would be nice but is not strictly necessary (obviously).



My dad and I did this together and with two people and a nice weekend I think you could get it done in a weekend, if you were ABSOLUTELY certain you had everything you needed and did nothing else that weekend, working during all hours of daylight. I guess if you want something cool like an M90 you have to work for it. Now, on to the process...

Pull out the drain plug, then disconnect (destroy) the transmission cooler lines, then drop the transmission pan and finagle it in such a way that additional ATF comes out. I waited 24 hours between each of these steps to allow for optimal draining. Regardless, there was always more ATF to get on myself. You will ruin your work gloves. Resistance is futile.



Next up is to pull the aluminum piece from under the oil pan, as well as unbolting the torque converter and driveshaft. The converter bolts came out using a wrench, with a breaker bar on the crankshaft to stop the engine from turning. It just so happened to be exactly the correct length to rest on the frame rail when turned appropriately while I had it on the crank pulley. A second person being there would have worked just fine as well. As the pinion seal, center bearing, and center bearing support in my car were done at the same time the whole driveshaft came out. It was first undone at both ends before the center bearing support was removed in the middle by my dad while I held the two halves of the driveshaft together. The new front half got a new bearing pressed on offsite, as well as a new giubo and center bearing support. I combined the newly refurbished front half with the old rear half, resulting in absolutely zero driveline vibrations. The halves are balanced independently.



Parts featured in this post:
M90 takeoffs from RHD car, used, £670 including freight ($807 at time of purchase) from Classic Swede
Pinion seal, SKF p/n 942905, $13.78 from FCP Euro
Driveshaft center bearing, FAG p/n 183265, $31.32 from FCP Euro (with support) for 50.8mm driveshaft, I found that there were two different available diameters so measure yours before buying!
Driveshaft center bearing support, Febi Bilstein p/n 1340501, $31.32 from FCP Euro (with bearing)
Driveshaft giubo, Febi Bilstein p/n 26117511454 (actually a BMW part!), $40.84 from FCP Euro

Price so far: $892.94
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1993 944 B230FT/M90 thread here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=345277
2x 1991 245 B230F/M47 (LeMons car, street car)
I sell chips for LH 2.4!

Last edited by redblockpowered; 02-05-2020 at 09:08 PM..
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