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Canyoneagle's 1979 245

Not much in the way of real work in the past couple of months. I've rigged a bolt in the tailgate handle so I no longer have to crawl over the back seat to open the tailgate.

I bought Philski's AQ151 carb setup and plan to rebuild the Solex's and install them. I'm not super excited about having carbs without choke, but I am getting pretty tired of the intermittent K-jet issues, and am not really interested in investing the time/effort/money into learning it and making it work.

Ultimately, I'd like to get a head to re-work and throw on some Mikuni bike carbs or TB's, but that is for another time.

For now, I'm going to get a mechanical fuel pump, get rid of the K-jet pumps/relay, and give the Solex's a go.
 
Long time, no update here.

I pulled the refurbed Torque Rods and Panhard Rod out and installed the IPD adjustables. I'll be fine tuning angles/lengths, but have everything relatively close.

I will be listing the original stuff (refurbed/painted 91+ with poly bushings) for someone to do DIY adjustables.

I still haven't had a chance to find the source of my poor running condition. I will start by troubleshooting the ignition, and will then dive into the K-Jet if the ignition is not the issue.

I am gradually getting the car to a point where I can sell it - either BAT or Ebay - the lack of AC (and my unwillingness to try to install an aftermarket system) means it is time for the car to be passed on. It is my daily driver, and the humid eastern summers are not conducive to staying reasonably "fresh" for an office job.

Next on the project list:
- Ignition / K-Jet

After that, I have several things lined up:
- Replace most brake components (new stuff sitting in the box, ready to go)
- Replace clutch (Sachs kit on the way)
- Re-do tailgate wiring
- fix/replace windshield wiper motor
- Install Hella H4's and relay. I've had the lights sitting in a box for a year, just haven't gotten around to installing them. When I do this, I'll refurb the quad round bezels and grille
- Repair buttcheeks - minor rust, currrently being held at bay with a wire brush/primer job.

Those are the items on my list before I sell the car. Should be fun.

Ive been researching and watching used 996's and C30's - my prime candidates for something fun and sporty that is also a decent DD.
 
AC is pretty easy to install. Just need to find a donor car that has all the pieces you need. There's a piece of plastic that you need to cut out of the side of the heater box, so you can slide the evaporator into place. Then, remove the two rubber plugs on the firewall panel and run the AC lines between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. Remove the non-AC PS bracket pieces, install the AC bracketry to the pump, then install the plate for the AC compressor on the side of the block. Mount the compressor, replace the solid PS pulley section of the crank pulley with the one that uses the shims, then install the AC belt after mounting the PS pump to the top of the compressor and installing its belt. Usually three shims is enough tension for the AC belt. Install the condenser and a new receiver/drier in their respective places, connect the hoses with new seals, then connect the wiring and your AC switch in the dash. Only other change that needs to be done is to add the small pierburg valve that mounts to the firewall, and add the vacuum diaphragm to the lower aux. air valve hose, so the idle boosts when the AC is turned on. Once that's done, go get the system charged.

It'll take you about 3-4 hours from start to finish to install parts from another 240 in your car. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a 996 or a C30.

-J
 
AC is pretty easy to install. Just need to find a donor car that has all the pieces you need. There's a piece of plastic that you need to cut out of the side of the heater box, so you can slide the evaporator into place. Then, remove the two rubber plugs on the firewall panel and run the AC lines between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. Remove the non-AC PS bracket pieces, install the AC bracketry to the pump, then install the plate for the AC compressor on the side of the block. Mount the compressor, replace the solid PS pulley section of the crank pulley with the one that uses the shims, then install the AC belt after mounting the PS pump to the top of the compressor and installing its belt. Usually three shims is enough tension for the AC belt. Install the condenser and a new receiver/drier in their respective places, connect the hoses with new seals, then connect the wiring and your AC switch in the dash. Only other change that needs to be done is to add the small pierburg valve that mounts to the firewall, and add the vacuum diaphragm to the lower aux. air valve hose, so the idle boosts when the AC is turned on. Once that's done, go get the system charged.

It'll take you about 3-4 hours from start to finish to install parts from another 240 in your car. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a 996 or a C30.

-J

That is one option, for sure. The only hesitation I have is that I've never been impressed by the AC in 240's, so the thought of installing a used system does not inspire me.

For me, the main catalyst is a likely change of commute from 5 miles each way to 20, and a simultaneous re-focusing of my time and energy away from wrenching on a 40 year old car.

If my commute remains as is, I can keep the car as is, but the "older car" restoration hobby will still go on the back burner
 
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Finally got around to waxing the car, after numerous false starts, including full compound and initial prep.
I powerwashed the flaking clearcoat to clean up the hood. It'll do for now.

Other note: I had a new '91 windshield installed a couple of months back. The old one was pitted and leaking in numerous spots around the perimeter. I like the new one quite a bit, though it comes at the expense of having to remove the chrome trim. I might try to affix the trim to the rubber to get that original look back.

I've done a couple of rounds of adjustments on the panhard/torque rods and still have some vibration in the driveline. For now I have the rear tranny yoke within 1 degree of the diff yoke, and about 2.5 degrees off from the rear portion of the driveshaft. I have some new tranny and motor mounts that I will install, then re-check the rear.
I'd love to hear some input from any folks who've adjusted their torque/panhard rods with the 2-piece driveshafts for any tips (which yokes to align, angle variations you've seen in your applications, general tips, etc).

I might be resigned to take the car into an old Volvo guy to figure out my poor running condition. I don't have a dwell meter or oscilloscope, and think that running through the K-jet and/or ignition system might be too much for me to take on with my diminishing wrenching time.

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Going up for sale - headed to BAT soon

Life (work, home remodeling) has taken me away from wrenching, and I have decided to sell the 245. I will be preparing her for sale in the coming weeks.
I'll still be driving a Volvo, just not a redblock. I'm keeping my tuned C30 for daily driving duty.

I'll probably put an ad in these forums for kicks, but is seems old Volvo's do well on BAT. Fingers crossed!!!! It'll be a great project for someone to carry forward - either as a resto mod or full restoration.

I'm not sure if a whiteblock T5 owner is still part of the turbobricks family, but I will stay tuned, as I've come to enjoy spending time here.
 
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