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(Not*) Mediocre 242

What shifter do you use? I use a pro 5.0, and the shift knob that comes with it is angled down a little too much. I should just make a new one.
 
+1, leave it to dan crandall.



+1

Dan didn't touch anything drivetrain-related.

EDIT: actually that's not true, but the transmission and gear linkage was all me. Dan did manage to work the shift lever loose somehow...
 
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Finally got around to fixing the intake manifold. I made a new mount from some angle aluminum as well as some gussets. My buddy re-welded the joint and the gussets. No way it's breaking again. The fuel lines have plenty of slack.

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While I was in there, I made some RX7 brackets and installed them.

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Finally put on my LMs as well. They have Michelin Pilot Super Sports on in 225/45r17 and 245/40r17. Front effective offset is 0 and rear is 15 mm.

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The rears rub a tiny bit on bumps. I need to center my axle a bit and maybe roll my fenders a little more. Maybe I could remove a bit of material from the spacer. Really what I need is some adjustable trailing arms to move the wheels to the front a bit.

I also need to get the rest of the air out of my brakes, the pedal is a bit soft.
 
The wheels look killer bud.

Shortening the trailing arms is what I will probably do next weekend. Going to section out .750", and box them.

What happens to the panhard bar when the trailing arms are shortened? I'm running an IPD poly unit, and I'm pretty sure the changing the angle that it mounts at can't be misaligned and taken up by the poly bushings, if that makes sense.
 
The wheels look killer bud.

What happens to the panhard bar when the trailing arms are shortened? I'm running an IPD poly unit, and I'm pretty sure the changing the angle that it mounts at can't be misaligned and taken up by the poly bushings, if that makes sense.

Thanks.

I raised the rear a little bit, and centered the axle a little bit more and now I get no more rubbing, even on big bumps. I'm happy and not going to shorten my trailing arms until Ben gets out his new adjustable ones so I can use a real coilover in the rear.

But I bet you'll need to cut the panhard to change the angle, or cut one end off and use a heim joint. I don't think the poly will have enough misalignment.


The fuel rail tabs is really weird, still can't understand how they were breaking on you. Sure looks solid now though.

I don't know either, I bet it was because only the top was welded. Maybe my fuel line does pull on it when the engine moves. I need to get a video of that. But in any case it's not going to break now.
 
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