Khrrck
Professional Amateur
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2015
- Location
- Beaverton, OR
I believe Harald built some home-made det cans like you're mentioning. Maybe check with him.
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Went and picked up the engine block today, all nicely cleaned, bored and honed and he surprised me with the pistons, turned out he was able to source a Wiseco FORGED piston kit for the same price as original pistons, nice, brought a smile to my face. Need to do a couple things to the block, like deleting the stupid pcv, and then it's time for reassembly.
If by "a lot of boost" you mean, constantly over 30psi, sure maybe.
Nice pistons, I'd run a thinner hg and maybe skim off the head a little bit. Verify rod straightness of the rods. I'd personally just get a set of hbeams regardless and move on, but ymmv. These days, 9:1 is low compression, anything much lower than that is either very high output or just old.
I wouldn't build that type of an engine under 8.5:1 compression ratio. 9:1 would still be ok. The lower it is you lose in driveability, fuel economy and the engine wakes up later. It's all about the tune.
Nice! Now you need a set of HBeam rods!
Mine is 8.5-1 I don't suffer any of those characteristics. Have you driven an 8.5-1 car to know what your talking about or just repeating what you've read on the all knowing internets?I wouldn't build that type of an engine under 8.5:1 compression ratio. 9:1 would still be ok. The lower it is you lose in driveability, fuel economy and the engine wakes up later. It's all about the tune.
there's definitely a difference, it's not bench racing.
but you guys can go ahead and ignore 17 years of experience dealing with all types of volvo engines and do your own thing. I don't have to drive it or deal with it, not my problem if your stuff doesn't quite measure up
I'm not sure I would use a subaru engine as a good example, they seem to lose pistons regardless of what the static CR is on otherwise stock turbo engines.
Rods can be bought off ebay, from vendors nearby (I'm sure you could get a set from sweden pretty quickly), etc. Might do yourself a favor at the same time and get the ones that convert to crank-steered vs the OE piston steering that goes on in b230s. No machining necessary.
I don't think I'm ignoring you, I very much appreciate you sharing your experience. That said, I think experiencing something yourself is very valuable and something you can take with you for life. So I think I'm going to try it and if I don't like it rip the head of and have it machined. Taking the head off is easy.
Good news, I think I found a UK supplier: https://www.maxspeedingrods.co.uk/high-performance-volvo-b230-h-beam-connecting-rods-conrods.html. Will those bolt up, nothing else needed? Are these the ones that are crank steered?
I don't think I'm ignoring you, I very much appreciate you sharing your experience. That said, I think experiencing something yourself is very valuable and something you can take with you for life. So I think I'm going to try it and if I don't like it rip the head of and have it machined. Taking the head off is easy.
Good news, I think I found a UK supplier: https://www.maxspeedingrods.co.uk/high-performance-volvo-b230-h-beam-connecting-rods-conrods.html. Will those bolt up, nothing else needed? Are these the ones that are crank steered?
You can write and ask questions about the rods directly to Maxspeedingrods. They responded pretty fast the last time I asked them a question regarding their Volvo Whiteblock rods.
based on some old spreadsheets I've got from the good oriental folks, 24.8 to 25.2 is what you'd be looking for for crank steerage.
Email sent, thx.
Thanks, nice. Does that mean I don't install the little end spacers that came with the Wiseco piston kit? The ones that go in between the rod and the piston.
Email sent, thx.
Thanks, nice. Does that mean I don't install the little end spacers that came with the Wiseco piston kit? The ones that go in between the rod and the piston.
Mine is 8.5-1 I don't suffer any of those characteristics. Have you driven an 8.5-1 car to know what your talking about or just repeating what you've read on the all knowing internets?
Higher compression ratio does result in more thermodynamic efficiency, meaning more power out of boost. Doesn't mean your car wont run with lower compression. Higher compression will be more prone to knocking meaning without a proper ignition map for the compression your ECU may pull timing and negate the gains from higher compression.