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13C to 16T swap, no gain?

Or grab one of the ebay blocks. That said... speaking of not noticing a difference...

Whatever you do, make sure the end has 90* turns on it. My ebay unit is straight with 90* silicone couplers... yeah... had to get a smaller battery lol.
 
FWIW, I also recently swapped from a 13C to a 16T, kept boost set at 10psi, stock turbo exhaust. What was noticable to me was the increased smoothness of the power delivery compared to the torque bump that the 13C had. To me it felt like the 16T continued to pull harder as the rpms climbed.

I also recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor before playing around with the boost too much.

You selling that 13c?

OP here in the States we use intercoolers out of NPR diesel boxtrucks with a four cylinder diesel. It is almost a drop in replacement.
Bet there are similar across the pond that can be had for a song that will do wonders.
Intake air temps close to ambient with next to no pressure drop across the intercooler makes for more power, effiency and improved resistance to visits from the Kool-Aid dood.

There are 3 sizes, right? and the largest size is the one needed?
 
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There are 3 sizes, right? and the largest size is the one needed?

I'm not aware of different sizes. I got mine here on TB. Core was easily 60mm thick. Went in the Hornetkar easily with a little sawzall time to whack excess aluminum off of it. Worked great and much stronger then Volvo fitted.

From back when we could run turbos in Hornets. Lol
 
Whatever you do, make sure the end has 90* turns on it. My ebay unit is straight with 90* silicone couplers... yeah... had to get a smaller battery lol.

Ha, thanks for the hint! I have no AC, so the outlets are on top of the IC. Shouldn't get in the way of the battery if they're not straight.
 
Mine are on top as well.

Also... in your other thread all of those IC's are center tanks???
 
The 1992+ turbo cars have a different radiator and IC. Personally I would recommend all 7/9 upgrade to the larger Rad and IC along with the different IC hoses as it is a more efficient design and the larger Rad also helps. Plus OEM EFAN bolts right up so you can ditch the clutch fan.
 
The 1992+ turbo cars have a different radiator and IC. Personally I would recommend all 7/9 upgrade to the larger Rad and IC along with the different IC hoses as it is a more efficient design and the larger Rad also helps. Plus OEM EFAN bolts right up so you can ditch the clutch fan.

Different how? Top mount or mid mount?
 
Mid mount IC so it has a smoother flow design along with a wider core for more surface area for cooling. In my car when I did the swap I noticed the difference.

If you Google "Volvo 940 intercooler" and look at pictures the links for the do88 ICs are there and you can see just the airflow path difference. Add in a larger rad and being able.to use the efan without any mods. If you find a junkyard car you can get all of the parts you need to update your older setup. The biggest issue you have to work around is placement of the air cooled oil cooler. Myself I ditched that and went to the 1992+ water cooled oil.cooler.
 
For reference:

240 / early 740 IC
03561_1.jpg


92+ IC
images
 
My IC is top mount on my 1997 model. But like I said, I don't have AC, so I believe that's the difference?
 
Yeah I don't know, it has no extra options fitted. No AC with completely manual heater control (no recirc button), no power windows / mirrors, nothing.

Less things that can get broken though. :nod:
 
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