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Microsquirt 16v+t

Bravo! Also this is a award winning statement,

"Its pretty safe to say the car is motivated decently."

Sill been following this closely. Thanks for the detailed updates. You get **** done and are one stubborn bastard
 
I agree , it does look like it was cracked before snapping off. The bellhousing is a adapter made by borg warner for a lt1, using a t5 trans bell and 4 bolt bearing cover and throwout cylinder collar, bolted to the trans adapter plate.The shaft broke off two large chunks before completely breaking -it appears. The bellhousing was centered from Borg Warner factory, to the lt1 t5 bell, however a aftermarket t56 was crate ordered in 1993. This is the rare piece i have with a 2.97 first gear and 11.3 inch long input shaft from end to end.I am using the gm trans adapter i bought from the board here at turbobricks. So its lined up. Unless you guys have had issues with yours, which i have yet to hear of any. This trans has 10k on it in this car now. No chaffing or galling of shaft , no signs of misalignment wear on splines, nothing bent or misaligned. pilot bearing is still perfect, no hot spots. I am certain there wasn't an alignment issue. This is a issue of driver error, and own fault of clutch selection, for a very low rated torque capacity version trans. Now realized.

I have Done a ton of research the past two days to find out quite a few interesting things. One, there are so many misconceptions of torque ratings for t56. And , a few different versions. I have one of the first "pilot program" t56 versions , made in 1993, which came with two first gear options, one was a 2.97, the second had a 3.66. Both only made in 93. To complicate matters even more, the version i have was called an "aftermarket" one , meaning it was a crate ordered transmission, not designed for any specific car, so mine had the 2.97 first gear(and much longer input shaft) , rated to hold supposed limit of 400ftlb of torque. the 3.66 was rated at 350ftlb . The version i have has a 11.3 inch input shaft from end to end.Also has 29 tooth gear -ratio of 2.97. The stock one that came in the 93 camaro had a 8 inch total input shaft. So i have , the rarest of the rare version of the t56, and second weakest version overall. Then to add more insult to injury i added a nascar triple disc unsprung clutch, that is anything but soft and cushy, and the car hooks hard, as i had mentioned , many times. Soft rear suspension, battery in back, amp/ sub and alcohol kit, all behind rear tire helped a bunch in the grip of the car. Good weight transfer is key, soft cut springs in rear helps. I also have a 3.73 g80 locker , that i replaced after exploding the 4.11 g80 just 35 miles after i swapped in the t56. It snapped both spider gears completely in half and chucked them out the diff cover. That sucked.

So finding a replacement shaft has been a serious pita due to the rarity of this trans. But i finally found one at Rockland Standard Gear inc. Nearly triple the cost of the viper input, and less strength, but yay rare.. Ugghh. In order to upgrade this version of trans with a 2.66 ratio(31 teeth), with hardened shaft from AMP, i would have to upgrade three to six more gears to even fit the input shaft in the trans, which changes the gearing completely, in which i have become quite fond of.May as well buy a tr6060 after doing all that. This AMP shaft would beef the torque rating up somewhere around 500/ 550 ft lb (viper rating version t56). All of these input shafts have 26 splines, same as mine, but the length is quite different between them all, which makes for more issues. The bellhousing i am using is a standard borg warner piece that they basically cut a t5 trans bellhousing off a t5 and bolted it to a thick steel plate and bolted a center bearing cover to, with a throwout bearing sleeve. So that part was easy to find, ordered it and have it coming. Also have the 11.3 inch long standard input shaft coming from Rockland Standard Gear, brand new. With new input bearing and race. Trans Cover was simple to pull off and replacing the part is pretty straight forward. So in summary the next time you read on a forum that the t56 was rated at 600ft lb, question the version of trans, before excepting that at as fact, LIke i failed to do.SMH. My version appears to be a crossbreed between a m28 and m29 , t56 , the two weakest ones. But two most desired gear ratios. What makes them the weakest is diameter of input shaft,Output shaft, and the fact that the gears are thin, (not sure if that's fact, but its been mentioned on a few boards). The other main issue is the atf trans fluid will slosh to the back of trans during hard accel, and starve the front for lubrication. Some have added a electric pump to them and drilled and tapped a "squirter" to the front case right behind front cover to aid this issue. Other have run these same trans , and version in 1000hp cars with no issues. Its all in setup. Forgiving sprung clutch, forgiving tires, forgiving drivetrain. Nothing that my car car consists of honestly. I have Solid motor mounts, reinforced trailing arm plates, that broke and bent twice, big 245x19 tires that have soft tire tread compound,However not slicks type grip, decent weight transfer, decent gear ratios, and some torque, added with a screw ball driver that likes to drop the clutch in fourth gear. Because i got overexcited at pulling a car and a half on a 6.2 litre, 2010 camaro, with an added supercharger- through one gear ( and he has the tr6060 trans which is the way improved version of my t66, complete with reinforced center case and onboard pump lubrication system) this is the results i get. Truth be told my "freight train power peak gear" is fourth at 1 to 1 ratio, car really hums along nice. But i go into fourth around 100mph. So i was really looking to put the distance on him and got over zealous with fourth gear engagement. That's when it snapped the input shaft. I think i had already possibly cracked it before hand with harsh third gear and fourth engagement as you can see from the video, the first time we ran, i would have passed him in fourth, as i was coming up to him . The last time you can see him back there in the back glass.
Anyway, all that is just for fun and giggles.

My plan of attack, thanks to Rick Gentry, is to use a clutch slipper to help be more consistent, and help lessen the shock of the drivetrain, two birds. One stone. Check these two products out!

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fmagnusmotorsports.com%2Fproducts%2Fclutch-products-services%2Flaunch-control-device%2F%23.UgEojBZXhYI&h=ATMPaofyKboBmkG9s8qO2_HMOkxhfNb0kSWvId_E9pJYTTJb5olDZ2N4QZHPBk1IXm88-valPjj1f_OQZuUVytYiRmHw7bSqdj8PKS2KdJfuhrCDuZpzBQRJ6X9AIQn5AjBauaq2-3tkFoCY_GzE10pS


https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fgrannys.tripod.com%2Fhillbillyclutchslipper.html&h=ATOy7JoaXCjMyTWXpWVLbdf7XMO71t8s6BlkGshljLoCfuQPXD8oZN5PEs_jPcxDk7XdcPJCjIxD8PJguVAY0jaRMgWpxpogt3VrdRBi6xbriDFusOLAoFQEdcb4Zqva0ypcr2E_ITD4tAnnr5seXAw6


Two things i didn't even know existed until Rick linked it up on My "TurboWorld" Fb page. Two different ways of making sure i don't drop the clutch again shifting into third or fourth gear, without retraining my "Hard headed stubborn" self. Hindsight tells me i should have put an r154 trans in this car, as i could speed shift that thing and drop the clutch in all gears and it took it like nobody's business at almost 700 wheel. But this is what i choose, so i'm now married to making it all work, and so far its been a lot of fun. So i will beat this dog a little longer and eventually i will break the input again, and plan to put a gm auto back in it at that point. Then it will be even quicker, that's the hope anyway.No I'm not proud to break more ****. Shrug. It is what it is.
 
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Been a minute. New input shaft is working well. Replaced trans mount and welded up a better cross brace with my new welder , the top of the line "Vulcan" from harbor freight is most choice!
I Bumped the timing up in the higher boost levels, increased the boost as well, plumbed up the wastegate utilizing both ports. BEGI Intake Manifold broke four times, blew the welds off - three times at 15psi, then blew the second fuel rail brace off at 27psi. Got it fixed at "autobahn" down the street from me- by "Stoopid Fast". May dyno out there again soon. New Tires, and rims from ebay . 235x40x17 on rear, 215x45x17 on front. "Drift Fusion" rims. Quarter inch spacers on front with dimples pressed on strut tubes for extra clearance, replaced a front wheel bearing, will do other soon . I may add spacers on rear if i happen to be able to locate another set. Pretty happy with the car. Boost weather is great! I can't imagine building one of these animals , and not driving it everyday. Have found that 28psi is absolutely absurd, so brought it down to around 25. Time to seriously upgrade the suspension and brakes. Bent a front sway bar link, accidental slap wheelie may have done that, need alignment soon as result. On the fence about changing coil packs up for something else. I am getting alcohol in map sensor and need to remedy that issue , that has always been lingering. Added hid brights and lo beams, made a huge difference. Got em off ebay for 25 bux, h4, dual element, plugged right into e codes, with very minor mods. 6000 series, not super blue, but bright and blue enough. Love driving the car at night even more, because of the lights and blue exhaust flames, they match- oddly enough.Car show in two weeks at local Volvo dealer. Bought a v70 turbo awd wagon , a while ago. Will be doing a few mods to it , but nothing near as crazy as the widow.
 
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"Stoopid Fast" went over entire Intake manifold , except the secondary injector bungs and holder pegs. After the third weld breaking on it at low boost, i felt it needed a more reinforcement all the way around. Here's the fourth blow out . The fuel rail holder broke. Not sure if from vibration, or from boost. The other welds broke from poor penetration. Sucks when a "non wear" part breaks multiple times in a few weeks .
Now that it's all fixed, I can say that intake, and q45 throttle body are the bees knees. Or should i say spider Legs. Shrug.

RbBHQ7u.jpg
 
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Here's a very bad compilation of ****ery in the last two years of my box of bolts. Bad sound quality, and various potato cameras. My first attempt to edit videos. I need more practice. But here it is. If you enjoy fire, water, and boost shenanigans , then enjoy. https://youtu.be/LueS7sQmH6Q?t=7
 
Took some pictures in downtown houston. The Starter died in parking lot (8 years old), had to push start to get home , Yay manual transmission. Had to pull transmission bolts off and slide trans back a few inches to get to top starter bolt with a wrench , boo standard trans t56 swap!! The top bolt ended up being seized badly. I further rounded the bolt off and had to brake the aluminum starter where the bolt threads in , in order to get it off. What a fiasco. Added a new bov, data logs showed improvement in response and additional boost quicker , with gear changes. I also changed boost controller, changed boost controller plumbing, plumbed alcohol jets into intake manifold directly. Rebuilding turbo next week. Somehow developed a chip on the impeller cold side, when i bought the hx52 used it looked like it was pulled off a semi that caught fire. New cold side wheel was 30 bux, rebuild kit was 30 bux, and shaft and exhaust wheel was 138 bux. Each wheel is individually balanced, so i will throw it together and send it. Shes running like a champ. Almost 17k miles on it now since I rebuilt the engine and upgraded it . Been driving the stink out of it. I cant imagine just driving one at the track and not daily driving it. Boost is at 25psi now , it pulls to 130mph quicker, than most of my passengers would like it to. Suspension is really soft in the back now so it hooks really well. I think my springs are probably worn out shrug. Anyway , heres some pics of the turd. Some of you will especially appreciate the first one.

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2kZ3nfs.jpg





L2mfEQi.jpg
 
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Sorry people, been busy, very busy. Restored a 93 firebird, upgrading supra race car, upgrading customer Syclone, and a ton of other stuff in between including t2 k. Check out my videos on you tube "Black Widow Volvo" and the same on insta.

Where to start.. First off , I have had nothing but problems with both intake manifold and exhaust manifold. They have been in competition, to see who can crack the most , and largest-it seems. I have fixed the intake manifold about 3 times myself before taking it to a pro at Autobanh several times to fix different spots. Just last week one of the mounts that holds the fuel rail on broke compeletely off and #4 injector came off the fuel rail at full boost! FUGH!! I fealt the power lay over and smelled loud e85, and hit the key. Luckily it didnt burn down and I used some zipties and wire to put the thing back together to get home (although I always carry a fire extinguisher in the car) mean while , fending off potential thieves in the ghetto, cirlcling around like buzzards, yay Houston Tx. I now see, why some people dont build intake manifolds for a living. Its really tough to get them to hold. I cracked it down the middle of the weld twice at 15psi, then once at 25psi at the weld. Then twice on the thin aluminum where it needed thicker material.

Pics out of order, got stuff to do ..Sry.











































Old turbo placement out and high up...




New turbo placement , a little lower. need new hood as location changed dramatically.













The exhaust has been ten times worse, easily-requiring welding every two to three weeks! It would crack , until it got so bad I could only get full boost bouncing off rev in 1st at around 7500 full load. Material too thin, bracing sucked, design sucked, I failed. So , after repairing it more times than I can recall, I cut copied and pasted another one myself. I bought that top of the line harbor freight Welder, the Vulcan 220, and every attatchment it has. That thing is a beast. I am no pro at all -so as per normal for me, I practice on my own car. I hear some of you sighing, but, Got to start somewhere! So far, I have completely welded up transmission brace, exhaust manifold, intercooler piping, and intake fixes. The intake fixes didnt last, but the rest is fine. Aluminum is quite testy, requires a bit of heat first, much cleaning, and on , and on. I like the spool gun, cant seem to do crap with the torch. Need more experience. LeSigh.

I had a header from something, not sure if its a bb ford or chevy, but the runners were damned near perfectly spaced. With the persuasion of a fixed bench vice , I got the runners almost perfectly spaced. I think the pictures explain the process better than words. The header is a lot shorter ,with a lot better bracing, support, and flow. The car builds boost 1500rpm quicker than other header. I can build 5.9 psi off idle bouncing off rev limit 3 times. Bouncing off it once nets 3.9psi. Before i could only get 1.5psi. Car drives completely different, kills tires , comes off the line pretty quick, even though tire spin. Check out new video "spinnin" on Yt. Car is quick. There are a few videos of me playing with supercharged ls3 , rated at 450 from factory WITHOUT BOOST(he was claiming 550hp with added charger and cooler), and a fun race with a 5.3 , 76mm pick up, for anyone that wants to foolishly doubt the motivating factor. Those videos were with old pos manifold. Every part of the power ban has been improved. The old header was almost equal length, the new is not.


Had some clutch slip going on, got real bad coming back from t2k. On second set of triple discs. Found out alot more info on Nascar triple disc clutch I foolishly ran. First off, good for only 3 races, not made for street , slip. No slip. The material on the disc is sprayed on. So I shipped The entire setup to Darby diesel or Amercian power and brake, about 3 hours north of me In Texas. They made a triple disc setup into a streetable twin disc, eliminating two floater discs and one clutch disc. Now i have a riveted twin disc street clutch setup with brass pucks. It slips, and grips when you want. Works very well. Cost me 400 and change . Great turn around, ask for mudflap 12143505611. Be prepared to talks some ****.LOL. Hes a riot!

original Nascar quarter master pro triple disc, with sts volvo flywheel, dodge nascar flywheel with machined feet.


New modified quarter master twin disc street , rated at 780ftlb.








Also, after coming back from t2k, I noticed some overspray from timing belt of oil and coolant and power steering mix. My power steering let go and started leaking at front bearing on pump, the cover that has gasket behind it for front main seal and balancer started leaking from gasket. So i pulled all of that apart and, even replaced ac compressor as it was getting weak.I also replaced the stupid ass rubber seal on top of water pump that started to seep. Such a crap design.












Thats about all the time i have pateince for typing about at the moment, stay tuned...
 
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Been a while. Been Busy and that's good! T56 Trans is still in one piece, Clutch has been a fantastic improvement! Slips for only a rotation or two and grips, yay brass lined twin disc. Old redblock is still strong. Valve seals are showing signs of needing replaced. Nice puff of smoke on start up when cold. 30k on bottom end thereabouts, head was very used, and I shaved the deck-and / or "sent it" so they say. Maybe 200k on head or so. So it is time to do the seals. Other than that it's the same its always been, possibly faster. I have noticed metal flake in the oil since day one. Copper type tiny bits. Still seems to be happening. Could be coppercoat, maybe not. I also noticed the balance shaft has abnormal amount of thrust play. Nice clunk back and forth. That cant be normal! I think really the issue is stock oil pump cavitates before 7500 redline. Causing oil starvation. I will have to build another , with dry sump-the next time. I do admit to dialing the boost down to 20 for most daily driving. I had a misfire that seemed to go away by dailing back to 20, from 25/26 psi. Datalog shows rpm dip and becomes wierd. Fuel is there , but spark seems to be dropping. Probably time for new set of plugs again. I Will change them in a few days. I Have replaced coil pack and ignitor. Just replaced fuel filter with a Wix one , e85 seems to eat them rather quickly, and I dont know of a better solution other than upgrading all the fuel lines and filter.The Problem seems intermittant. I have Checked datalogs, and finally found a wierd fluctuating tps. I Will see what a new one does when it arrives.

It's more than enough power at 20 psi for daily, but I plan to start actually getting results from this fun little build. I have really enjoyed driving this thing. Im now curious what it makes, and I cant wait to start breaking this thing More at the drag strip, and being sorely disappointed in the sub par performance all of the sudden. I feel like I can launch it pretty decent with street tires. But I know the drag track is a different world, and traction will become a horrible issue-launch possibly will prove pointless . I have honestly been afraid to put anything more sticky than what I have now, on the rear. But I know I will need to , in order to get any kind of positive results. I know the rear end will shatter with good traction at the track. So I will have to upgrade the last part of the car , I have done , much of nothing, to upgrade the g80. Replaced it three times so far, since I have owned the car. Ac is cold when I wait for tow truck though- sigh.

A group of buddies of mine , wanted to see a burnout, at the time it seemed fine. One offered to film it. May have Seemed innocent and fun chance to show off, idk, After reviewing several times, and showing one family member, I realized it was dumb. Anything could have gone wrong, and sent the car into a parked car or house.. or animal, or a child..No one wants that on thier conscience . ...I or someone else, could/may- have done.. a hella burnout , in a nieghborhood. If you care to see what stupid looks like .......


https://youtu.be/U2pSpBLbaKI

There it is.. I dont usually go out to spots to just do drifts or burnouts, nor do I film it. I for sure dont do this in any nieghborhood , nor should you. So I guess I should now go burn up a vacant parking lot or something more stupid, and more importantly, less dangerous to others. You know- maybe I can skip that and take it to a drag track?! I really like driving it. It has Texas tags on it now. No more Void Plates. Got a Warning from a state trooper, so it was time.
 
Dyno day

My young lady bought me a surprise dyno session! The Black Widow wasn't ready to break any records, but it didnt break anything else either ( that wasnt already broken. Rip 3 bar gm map). Meh. Here's the video and numbers.https://youtu.be/WxffNEV2n_M
 
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