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The Buchka 242 Daily Driver

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Look out, he's got a gun!

Is that the parts counter guy I have heard so much about?
 
Pat are you using the dekups system? That's what I use in all my guns and it's great!
Yep. I still use measuring cups though, I don't trust their piece of paper that slips onto the outer cup.

Is that the parts counter guy I have heard so much about?
Occasionally I do get up from the counter and actually do something, just don't tell anyone.
 
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Here is the painted and de-masked engine bay. The fresh paint makes the car look like a million bucks. I'm getting really anxious to drive it atain.

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Painted the brake booster to bring it up to snuff in comparison to the engine bay and all the freshly plated parts, installed with the master cylinder.

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Took a 740 hydraulic clutch master cylinder and welded a slug of aluminum to it so I can clamp on a small wilwood reservoir. It looks much better and is way easier to package than with a remote mounted reservoir.

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Finished the banjo to AN-6 adapter that goes on the steering rack. Just need to put together a -6 high pressure hose and I'll be all set with power steering.

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The transmission is now ready to go in the car along with the engine. Finally got the shifter situation figured out, it should line up perfectly now and be pretty close to ideal height from the tunnel opening. It has been moved back 45mm and up 15mm. The bolted on aluminum shifter housing has been cut, moved around, and welded back together four or five times without much regard for aesthetics. Frankly, I'm too ashamed to show it in public, so I censored the image :finger:

Also visible right above the rubber trans mount is the plugged speedo cable hole. Gutted the original cable drive housing and just welded up the end of it.
 
Nothing more than what the photos show. I'm back in MA this week getting the fake race car ready for shipping. I'll be back on Saturday, going to drop the motor and trans in then.
 
Put in a long day yesterday getting the chassis harness put back in the car. The original harness in the car was ok from about the strut tower back but forward of that everything was in a pretty sorry state. Karl and I cut out an excellent condition late model engine bay harness at the junkyard a while back. Started splicing it into the car last night. We cut all the plastic sheathing off and stripped out unnecessary wires, added new thicker gauge high and low beam wires, and added in separate relays and fuses in the engine bay for the headlights.

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Everything got wrapped in Raychem DR-25 heat shrink. The new headlight relays and fuses are housed in this slick weatherproof housing Karl found.

The turn signals and horns also got some attention. Re-wired them with teflon coated wire, DR-25 heat shrink, and replaced the crappy stock connectors with Deutsch DTM's. Also moved the horns down on the slam panel support so they aren't directly in front of the radiator anymore.

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I like that relay block do you have a link handy?

These are all Mouser part numbers:

Fuseblock: 576-PDM31001ZXM
Contacts: 829-12077411
Seals for contacts: 829-15324982
Hoss contacts: 829-12077413
Seals for hoss contacts: 829-12015360
Cavity plugs: 829-12010300

12V/20A SPST relay (you can fit three of these and three fuses in the fuseblock): 893-3031AHCR1U112VDC
12V/35A SPDT relay (you can fit two of these and three fuses in the fuseblock, pictured above): 893-3011CCR1U0112VDC
 
Made some more progress the last two days. Got the chassis harness completely spliced in and sealed up. The bundle of three cables is an extra harness that connects to various random things not included in the stock 960 engine harness. The hole the wires are poking through will have a mil-std barrel connector in it for all the engine bits.

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What it looks like now:

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Installed a power trunk popper:

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Karl bundled up and sorted the wires in the engine harness, ready to accept a connector now.

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These are all Mouser part numbers:

Fuseblock: 576-PDM31001ZXM
Contacts: 829-12077411
Seals for contacts: 829-15324982
Hoss contacts: 829-12077413
Seals for hoss contacts: 829-12015360
Cavity plugs: 829-12010300

12V/20A SPST relay (you can fit three of these and three fuses in the fuseblock): 893-3031AHCR1U112VDC
12V/35A SPDT relay (you can fit two of these and three fuses in the fuseblock, pictured above): 893-3011CCR1U0112VDC

Thanks much
 
Looking good dudebro. Are you going to tie the trunk popper into the 850 keyless entry module? Or does stock not support that much boost?
 
I'm going to take acetone to all the gaudy "Raychem *dia* DR-25" text on the loom.

I'm thinking of wrapping all the heatshrink in that gold foil for maximum opulence

Looking good dudebro. Are you going to tie the trunk popper into the 850 keyless entry module? Or does stock not support that much boost?

That would be rad but the 850 module doesn't have that feature unfortunately. The key fob only has lock and unlock buttons, no trunk button.
 
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