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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

Thank you for taking the time to make a proper thread with a clear storyline and great photos. This is exactly the type of account that got me hooked on TB in the first place, about 10 years ago. The forum seems to have gone downhill in real Volvo content but that's likely due to proliferation of social media. Anyway, thanks again, because we need more of this.

+1! Not sure if its social media or just less RWD people..
Anyway enjoyed the reading the whole thread following the steps you've taken. I like the cars that are DD and still tuned/modified. Its hard to keep a tuned brick or any other car reliably on the road.
Nice Poly/heim TQ rods, thats a great addition.
 
Did you add any bracing or box them in at all? I'm sure the overlapping weld is plenty strong, I'd just be nervous about it and would probably add a plate on the top.

I did not add any other plate to it, I suppose I should, But I am currently satisfied with the way things went together, There is plenty of weld and penetration with that overlap.

Looking good. Glad you are eliminating the vibes and putting miles on the car.

Yeah! It's almost as fast and as comfy as new Honda Civic :-P

Good God, man! Every time I see your car I want to paint mine green!!! :omg:

Thanks for the kind words! This shade is a respray a few shades nicer than the original color, but I still like it a ton.

+1! Not sure if its social media or just less RWD people..
Anyway enjoyed the reading the whole thread following the steps you've taken. I like the cars that are DD and still tuned/modified. Its hard to keep a tuned brick or any other car reliably on the road.
Nice Poly/heim TQ rods, thats a great addition.

This car has taken it out of me for sure, They're a lot of work to own and drive. I am happy with the poly/heim rods so far, no extra NVH to speak of, So I am calling that a win.
 
so you chopped 3/4" out of the trailing arm just because that's what played nicely, not exactly a measured value? That's been on my list, want to center the rear wheels so I can space them out a bit.

Car looks good!
 
so you chopped 3/4" out of the trailing arm just because that's what played nicely, not exactly a measured value? That's been on my list, want to center the rear wheels so I can space them out a bit.

Car looks good!

I went with the 3/4" because the handful of people that have done this before said that was the measurement they used :nod: Not trying to reinvent the wheel, and that measurement really is perfect for what I needed.

It had a number of positive effects, the Ford DS is now much closer to being the "correct" length, and allowed for more slip joint engagement (they're too short with a stock setup), there is more space to adjust pinion angle, and the wheels are much more centered in the opening.

For the couple hours it took to pull them, cut, weld, clean, paint, and re install, it is one of the better things I have done to this car.

The IPD adj panhard still works just fine, with my setup for the record.

Thanks man!
 
Sweet 242 project. I'll keep an eye on your progress; hope to start the res to mod of my 84 next year, just as soon as I recover from my DD completion. If you want that car to handle, with the serious front drop you have, you must install the Kaplhenke quick steer roll center correctors. Without them, your front "roll center" is several inches beneath the road surface. If you don't care about handling, then ignore this.
 
Sweet 242 project. I'll keep an eye on your progress; hope to start the res to mod of my 84 next year, just as soon as I recover from my DD completion. If you want that car to handle, with the serious front drop you have, you must install the Kaplhenke quick steer roll center correctors. Without them, your front "roll center" is several inches beneath the road surface. If you don't care about handling, then ignore this.

The roll steer corrector are on the short list of things I still need to buy for sure. Especially with my manual rack setup, There are a number of benefits to adding those parts.
 
Great job on the car , Im getting ready to paint my 245 and was wondering if you knew the paint code on your car , really great shade of green! Thanks , again nice job , Mike
 
Ordered my Roll correctors from Kap today, as well as a couple odds and ends to make the car better/more livable. Pretty stoked for this next round on upgraddes (two D’s for a double dose of pimp game)
 
Another updated,

My Kaplhenke QSRC came in, great product, the fit and finish is really impressive, they work as advertised, and I find that my manual rack, middle hole setup to be really nice.


(yes I know this is on the back hole, had to change it due to tie rod length issues)
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I also installed some TLAO chips the other night, Looking forward to the benefits of these as well.

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One of my pals came through with a low mileage 16T for a steal, so now I have the 15G and 16T, anyone have any input on which I should choose and why? Mind you, this is my daily, It will run 15 ish PSI, and preferably live a long a healthy life.
 
15G and 16T are both TD04HL, so the turbine wheels should be the same, and turbine housings should swap between them. 15G compressor efficiency starts to fall off pretty quickly if you go higher than 2.0 pressure ratio, so maybe 12-13 psi as measured at the intake manifold. Looks like the 16T maintains its peak efficiency up to around PR 2.6, or over 20 psi. They both have about the same flow range. So if you're looking to run anything more than 12 or 13 psi gage pressure then the 16T should perform better.
 
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