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Old 09-08-2014, 04:37 PM   #2
keesue
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Alameda, CA. (Across the bay from the city)
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It keeps on pulsing until either the engine fires or you let up off the key. It isn't driven by the thermal time switch. It takes power directly from the starter solenoid and once it reaches it's delayed trigger time, it will pulse. If your thermal time switch is faulty, it will tell the cold start injector to work when it shouldn't. The thermal time switch completes the ground to the injector based on engine temp. You can test it with a light. Disconnect the cold start valve harness and connect to the two pins. Disconnect the coil wire and crank it and time it. You'll se the light come on based on engine temp - longer when colder and a quick flash when moderately warm. Stay on the key when the light goes out and the impulse relay will kick in.

Rich running when starting warm is more indicative of a faulty vacuum temperature valve or the vacuum delay capsule in the control regulator vacuum hose circuit. If that little capsule on the regulator or the one in the head is bad, it will richen the mixture when warm. The way to test it is to put a vacuum gauge in the hose coming from the regulator on the head to the control regulator to see if there is vacuum when the engine is warm. Then, reconnect to the vacuum capsule on the regulator and see it it allows vacuum when warm. Either condition is bad for the regulator and will make the engine run rich until the valve on the head closes. When they fail they fail upwards temperature-wise.

Hope that helps.
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'81 Black 242 GLT Turbo bought new, now with over 365K. Installed Factory Intercooler . K-Jet and a/c working righteous. Bilstein HDs; IPD springs, 25/25 sway bars and bottom X-brace; CravingBoost adjustable tower brace with Yoshifab top and bottom chasis braces; Crandandall adjustable poly torque rods and panhard bar; Fred Goeske 25mm rear wheel spacers; Redwood Chair window scrapers; Kenwood/ARC sound system.
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