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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

Things I'm pondering:

- moving the motor forward about 1 1/4 inch - there about 1 1/2 inch between the oil pan and the crossmember currently. This might help with all the various clearance issues
- possibly lopping off that center top bolt on the bellhousing. I'd still have 7 out of 8 bolts (the Holley pan has a couple on it) - that would reduce the tunnel hammering considerably
- alternatively - get a steel bellhousing, those are more compact and side benefit they would protect my feet from an exploding flywheel
- alternatively - get an LOJ CD009 kit - that uses the smaller Nissan bellhousing, bolted to a thin adapter plate on the LS
- the steering column has a fat section (rubber isolator?) that's currently mounted higher, I could flip that to place the fat section down low and gain some clearance
- Fitting a downpipe is going to be pretty snug, I might think about getting some ovalized pie for that?
 
If you're willing to live without the rubber isolator shaft -- the splines on each end are hollow and accept a piece of 1/2" diameter steel stock perfectly. REALLY easy to make a much smaller replacement solid shaft - I just cut the splines off. Top pic is a 1/2" wooden dowel running through both splines - used the wood cuz it was easy to mock up. Bottom pic is the replacement staff in steel.



 
I think flipping it will be good enough, it just barely touched and the pipe moves straight forward from there. With the fat part down low it won't be causing any issues. Well, maybe ding the header a tiny bit there too? Although moving the engine forward slightly would probably make it a non issue either way.
 
So the 240sx headers and cross over pipes all fit okay other than the wastegate sitting close to the mount and the obvious downpipe? That's cool to know.
 
The turbo placement isn't that great, a couple of inches further forward would be better. And the small issue with the steering column - which I think would get cleared by flipping the shaft. And/or dinging the header slightly. No real issue where I thought there would be, and one where I didn't - the turbo placement.
 
Shhesh, those steering column u-joints do NOT want to budge! I took the bolts out, hammered a screwdriver into the slot to spread it a little, tried prying, tapping, hammering. Sheesh, nothing budged. I sprayed it down with PBLaster and I'll try again tonight.

I'm pondering how apart to take that part of the firewall to put in the 264 hydraulic clutch pedal. I sort of weasled around most of the work when I put in the cable clutch many years ago.
 
It's definitely easy enough to swap clutch pedals to not warrant taking the firewall apart. The only annoying thing I ran into was the pedal hinge bolt was so long that it hit the body when I was pulling it out. It came out after messing with it for a bit though.
 
you can do the clutch pedal without taking the others out

take the driver's seat out, all the space in the world.
 
linuxman51 said:
you can do the clutch pedal without taking the others out

take the driver's seat out, all the space in the world.
Click to expand...

Didn't really mean to pluralize pedal(s), although I did have to take mine out twice for one reason or another.

eh, I'm skinny.. faster to twist and hurt in the morning than make it easier on myself :-P
 
Had to use a torch (carefully) on the alu steering column u-joints - they still didn't want to budge after soaking in PBlaster for 24 hours. A little gentle warming, not damaging the ujoints, and a little friendly hammering, and they finally came off.

12" long, 3/4 (19mm) 48 spline. You can get a solid shaft for about $30. http://www.colemanracing.com/Steering-Shaft-Splined-P4078.aspx

Might just get that. I don't mind my welding on an exhaust pipe, I get nervous about something that gets twisted back and forth and is a bit more critical if it breaks.
 
JohnMc said:
Might just get that. I don't mind my welding on an exhaust pipe, I get nervous about something that gets twisted back and forth and is a bit more critical if it breaks.
Click to expand...

ayrton-senna-da-silva-and-mclaren-honda-f1.jpg
 
Massive progress on the project:

IMG_20180330_195542_zpst5jucllc.jpg


OK, all I did was buy a 12" long 3/4" diameter 48 spline piece of steel tubing and install it in the steering column. I think Volvo thinks it's 19mm, but 3/4" certainly works. I thought about flipping the original rubber isolated thing, but... meh.

I also got another Hummer LH motor mount because they come with these big metal plates that space the motor mount attachment point back 1 1/4 inches, I just had to do a very minor bit of grinding to make it fit 'upside down' on the right-hand side. Luckily GM is weird/great about making symmetrical bolt patterns on things that allow you to put things on backward or upside down (like exhaust headers).
IMG_20180330_195602_zpszxl6ly68.jpg


I may or may not use these, I was going to see if the stock LS1 bellhousing fits a bit better with the engine forward (putting the Hooker oil pan about 1/4" from the crossmember). An alternative is still the LOJ Nissan trans adapter that keeps the smaller Nissan bellhousing on the trans and uses a smaller flywheel. I certainly haven't cut the bellhousing of my trans yet.

I'm also looking to see how a different set of pre-made eBay headers work - same as last time but made for a Fox body Mustang - they're similar in terms of clearance on the sides, but they place the turbo a couple of inches further forward.
 
I trust my welding skills enough to make a downpipe, but not enough to make a hotside that has to support the weight of the turbo.

For April Fool's Day/Easter it rained and spit sleet in the afternoon, I didn't get much done. I'm too unmotivated to work in lousy weather. Plus the ceiling in my garage is too low for the engine hoist - I just push it halfway outside when plucking engines.
 
Finally spent some time on this again. I've been spending all the nice days riding my bike since they've been in short supply so far this spring.

Test fitting the engine back in with a different set of manifolds and some H3 motor mount brackets that position the car 1.25 inches further forward.

Result is prettay, prettay, prettay good.

IMG_20180417_191118_zpsqhmaldms.jpg

IMG_20180417_191129_zpsoyxoirdh.jpg


The manifolds are on, the crossover pipe is on, the little cast dual scroll T4 connector is on, and the turbo is on. And there are practically no fitment issues at all. Two very minor touches - one is the left side of the crossover pipe - lightly touching the sway bar. I can space the sway bar down, or maybe just make a love tap or two on the crossover pipe. Maybe a little of both. And the turbo is very lightly touching on that small bit of subframing that runs up to the shock tower. A very modest amount of BFH work and that will be cleared up. w00t!!!

I spent a little more time checking out the manifold/strut brace clearance, no issues at all with the LS6 manifold. And I tried the downpipe on to see how close it was - it looked perfectly fine. At least the first section.
IMG_20180417_192510_zpsmutrrpe7.jpg


Ran out of sunlight and motivation to mess around with checking the bellhousing clearance with everything moved forward a little, but just eyeballing it from above looked very promising.
 
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