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Driveshaft halves installation (SOLVED)

PromiseRing said:
Why didn?t you say that 77 posts ago Ken? And I?m not stubborn.
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I kinda did, but didn't think I'd have to gold plate it to get you to understand the logic in it.

Oh BTW & just FYI a factory worker is actually a factory trained technician not some self taught billyjoebob 'mechanic' down at the corner gas station.
 
Darkness said:
So, your Volvo is special huh?

Never had driveline work in 25 yrs?

Yeah right.



So, I guess your 5.8 posts per day versus my 3 posts per year makes you an expert eh?
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I have every maintenance record since 1993 as far as I know. I?m more than willing to bet it?s original u joints, carrier bearing etc.
Redwood Chair said:
I kinda did, but didn't think I'd have to gold plate it to get you to understand the logic in it.

Oh BTW & just FYI a factory worker is actually a factory trained technician not some self taught billyjoebob 'mechanic' down at the corner gas station.
Click to expand...
You should know by now if it isn?t written in crayon on a paper plate I?m not gonna understand it.

And yes, that?s what I said.
 
PromiseRing said:
So are the buckets supposed to outwards towards the c clips? Because all 4 caps are touching the c clips.
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I did try to explain it as best I could. Sorry for my lack of english writing and descriptive skills. Yes, whatever you say, yes, you are correct, yes. Whatever. :roll:

Trying one last time. The cups may be touching the circlips but may still be a bit tight to the crosspiece, causing binding at some point(s). Driving them back outwardly against the circlips moves them ever so slightly away from the crosspiece, hopefully opening enough clearance to eliminate any chance of binding. Keywords: moves them ever so slightly. Even though they may be touching the circlips they are still able to move outward a bit. What is the word, elasticity maybe? Clearancing? Not sure. Somebody help me.

Of course, you gonna say "there's no binding," so you have established that without a doubt so you can forget about all this.

Just thought it was important you understood the concept instead of immediately condemning it. Of course these are tricks the pros use, not necessarily for TB mechanics to use on their old cars.

Well I had one more idea for you before I get off this thread permanently. Another TBer had a recent driveshaft thread where he found the problem was a lateral displacement of (I think it was) the center bearing. He slotted the holes to remount it lined up straight and that fixed it. You may want to check for something like that.
 
If you have the Bentley Manual, there's a great picture of indirectly tapping out the bearing cups (or seating them) in the Driveshaft chapter (pg 450-2 Fig. 3).
 
PromiseRing said:
I have every maintenance record since 1993 as far as I know. I?m more than willing to bet it?s original u joints, carrier bearing etc.

You should know by now if it isn?t written in crayon on a paper plate I?m not gonna understand it.

And yes, that?s what I said.
Click to expand...

Do you have problems with your textbooks in school?

Asking for a friend...
 
tintintin said:
I did try to explain it as best I could. Sorry for my lack of english writing and descriptive skills. Yes, whatever you say, yes, you are correct, yes. Whatever. :roll:

Trying one last time. The cups may be touching the circlips but may still be a bit tight to the crosspiece, causing binding at some point(s). Driving them back outwardly against the circlips moves them ever so slightly away from the crosspiece, hopefully opening enough clearance to eliminate any chance of binding. Keywords: moves them ever so slightly. Even though they may be touching the circlips they are still able to move outward a bit. What is the word, elasticity maybe? Clearancing? Not sure. Somebody help me.

Of course, you gonna say "there's no binding," so you have established that without a doubt so you can forget about all this.

Just thought it was important you understood the concept instead of immediately condemning it. Of course these are tricks the pros use, not necessarily for TB mechanics to use on their old cars.

Well I had one more idea for you before I get off this thread permanently. Another TBer had a recent driveshaft thread where he found the problem was a lateral displacement of (I think it was) the center bearing. He slotted the holes to remount it lined up straight and that fixed it. You may want to check for something like that.
Click to expand...

bobxyz said:
If you have the Bentley Manual, there's a great picture of indirectly tapping out the bearing cups (or seating them) in the Driveshaft chapter (pg 450-2 Fig. 3).
Click to expand...

Redwood Chair said:
Do you have problems with your textbooks in school?

Asking for a friend...
Click to expand...

Alright everybody sorry for being a stubborn prick, I was just flustered to say the least. If it ever stops raining I will follow yours and Kens instructions and better inspect. To me it seemed like there was no binding since I was able to move the ujoint in all directions without resistance.
 
Post #13

TestPoint said:
In a six month effort to completely eliminate shaft vibration my shaft balance guy coughed up the fact that there are three standard snap ring thicknesses.

The new U-joints and included snap rings I was working with bound the bearings far too tightly creating vibrations.
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Setting the caps back against the proper thickness snap rings is obviously a critical criteria that I had no knowledge of at the time. I had set the joints back against the rings but that wasn't enough. My balance guy replaced the included rings with thinner ones and sent me happily on my way.
 
TestPoint said:
Post #13



Setting the caps back against the proper thickness snap rings is obviously a critical criteria that I had no knowledge of at the time. I had set the joints back against the rings but that wasn't enough. My balance guy replaced the included rings with thinner ones and sent me happily on my way.
Click to expand...

So rings may be too thick. Is there anyway of knowing mine are too thick?
 
Vibration . . . or something else.

I had paid the shaft guy about $100 to shorten and balance a one tube custom shaft for my 302 conversion with new U-joints that I had installed. When I couldn't get the vibration out I took it back and he explained about the three thicknesses of snap rings. I do not know if that is because of rust in the ring cut or because of tolerances of the yokes.

The bottom line is that an U-joint cannot be bound tightly in the yoke without causing problems.
 
OP U-Joints in the late cars last much longer then we saw in early cars with the 'Two smalls and a medium' driveshafts.

I have installed $10.00 U-Joints only to solve the new vibration with Volvo U-Joints.
I've also got to have the driveshaft guy balance a shaft after doing U-Joints.
If you dented a tube as part of your process it will shake.

But you know this. Ahhhhh snowflakes!
 
JohnLane said:
OP U-Joints in the late cars last much longer then we saw in early cars with the 'Two smalls and a medium' driveshafts.

I have installed $10.00 U-Joints only to solve the new vibration with Volvo U-Joints.
I've also got to have the driveshaft guy balance a shaft after doing U-Joints.
If you dented a tube as part of your process it will shake.

But you know this. Ahhhhh snowflakes!
Click to expand...

Nooo apparently I don?t know anything about this ujoint stuff or I wouldn?t have messed it up:lol:

So I can
-Change to Volvo OE u joint
-Check snap ring thickness
-Make sure u joint isn?t pushed too far in
-Find someone to balance the shaft(s)

I don?t think I dented it but I guess I?m not 100% positive. All the u joints went in and out easily except the first one I pressed in. I I think most of the force was exerted on the joint and not the ears.
 
We've all had a U-Joint needle fall over and got to throw one away for it.

Plenty of suggestions in this thread which if followed will help you to solve the issue.

Best of luck.
 
Has anyone noticed a plastic type of coating in or on the splines of the rear shaft? I seem to remember having to peel off quite a bit of plastic coating in order to fit the rear shaft splines into the front shaft. Perhaps that plastic was supposed to be there? It was damaged and that’s why it would not allow for reinstallation without removal.
 
SOLVED: installed an m47 driveshaft from the junkyard for $27. It was from a 1992 car and had the arrows on each shaft unlike my 1993 cars. In fact, the arrows looked to be off a couple splines, and the center support bearing made noise when I spun it by hand, but i left it as is and all vibrations are completely gone from 0-90mph:e-shrug: haven’t had it past that but that’s good enough for me. I will most likely have to replace the center bearing at some point but for now we will consider this solved. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully you guys have better luck than me:lol:
 
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