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240 Engine Mount Cables

blkaplan said:
I dont like how you have the SS cable sandwiched between the aluminum and the steel. That will for sure wear out the Aluminum engine mounting bracket
If you want to do something similar. Go around the outside so the mounting surfaces can sit flat.
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Harlard said:
You aren't taking vibration into account.
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I appreciate and I'm taking both of these comments seriously. If this appears to be happening and becomes detrimental to the mounts, I'll make a change.
Dave
 
dbarton said:
I want mounts that will properly dampen, yet not be so weak they can't last.
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Reminds of a movie scene where the actress laments that she just wants a normal boyfriend, and her mom's reply is "We all want that dear. It doesn't exist." LOL

Unless, of course, you are Porsche.

 
dl242gt said:
You also can try straps like ones on the hydraulic mounts in the picture.
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I considered that too. My only concern was that the sheet metal might fatigue and break faster than a cable, considering the constant flexing. Maybe I'll try that if this one doesn't work out.

Otherwise it would be exactly the same, except made with sheet metal instead of cable. Not sure it that would make any difference in how it performs. It just needs to be able to restrain the mount from separation while not restricting it's movement or damping.
Dave B
 
I like your idea a lot. Having used diesel mounts on a couple of my cars. They can be too rough and I've even had the drivers side diesel mount separate. So something like this would have prevented the driverside mount separation which then led to the engine and driveline getting a bit crooked. My shifter bracket was over to the right in the hole.
 
After putting ~4000 miles on my car going to Davis and back and other driving since this install, I think i can say I have around 5k miles on these mount cables.

Are they failing yet?
 
None of the issues that were presented can be determined by looking at them without taking them apart. Also 4000 miles is a barely a test.

It looks like the exhaust side crimp has failed?
 
How much HP are you pushing through them? Manual or automatic?

The geometry of those mounts just sucks. Too narrow - close to the crank centerline, they don't have as much leverage to work with against driveline torque. And angled backward - to balance against the trans mount pushing forward. It works with stock HP levels... barely.

If you use a ratchet strap you can keep squishy soft mounts on them, but all the added stress of a 1st gear turbo-assisted launch goes through the ratchet strap - which is located on the top of the engine, about as far from the crank centerline as possible under the hood.
 
blkaplan said:
None of the issues that were presented can be determined by looking at them without taking them apart. Also 4000 miles is a barely a test.

It looks like the exhaust side crimp has failed?
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Sorry. It's not my DD. I'll report back in 10 years;-)
No it hasn't failed. Looks like new still.
Thanks, Dave
 
JohnMc said:
How much HP are you pushing through them? Manual or automatic?

The geometry of those mounts just sucks. Too narrow - close to the crank centerline, they don't have as much leverage to work with against driveline torque. And angled backward - to balance against the trans mount pushing forward. It works with stock HP levels... barely.

If you use a ratchet strap you can keep squishy soft mounts on them, but all the added stress of a 1st gear turbo-assisted launch goes through the ratchet strap - which is located on the top of the engine, about as far from the crank centerline as possible under the hood.
Click to expand...


Just a bit more than stock HP. Maybe 200. 15 psi with a 15G, manual trans, G80, but I don't make a practice of clutch dumps very often.

Yes. The geometry sucks.

Someone with skills . . . make the mounts I really want (see post #20).
Dave
 
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