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Mr.Borrie's Volvo 740

Now that Boris has a mobility scooter what should he get for Christmas

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The lame thing is i actually renting a garage with storage space but its 30 min drive and at home i know for sure i have all the tools i need..

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Car has been parked for a week now, trying to get around to install the LPG but time seems to be missing.
out of frustration i did put some new stickers on the car

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When i bought the car i looked for destroyed wiring and spotted this directly, no harnessing at all its crazy it works like that and not shorted out
Replaced the wiring soldered them back in place and heat schrinked isolation back. Also note i cleaned the engine bay a little bit :)

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Worked on the heater hoses today, i did not get any warm air inside the car. so i checked and found out the swich under the dash was broken.
Replaced it with one i had in my 89 740 .. pretty annoying job that kills your back

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After that because the hoses where empty anyway i put in the T pieces for the LPG reducer too, hopefully i will have some time soon to install that system completely

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took the day off the give this project a boost again. my 144 is starting to run worse and worse so the 740 has to take over soon.

I just got one little question i cannot find any way how to mount up the cold and warm side on the reducer, no manual can be found ether. i installed some long ass hoses so i can swap them over and cut to fit if nobody knows.

Also this reducer needs vacuum from the manifold, anybody knows a good place on this mani to take the vacuum? i saw a screw in the manifold that i can take out but not sure if i can get a connector for it that fits in there. ill snap a pic later of that screw

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Expect a big update soon.. meanwhile a photo of the first time me crimping this connector style.. this tool is great!

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you need to T the coolant hoses in to the 2 hoses going to and coming from the heatercore (connected in paralel to the heater core , do not connect it in series with the heater core.)
update: watched your picture again, your T-ing is done correct.

The direction of coolant flow through the reducer doesn't really matter, the coolant just needs to get hot quick. Otherwise the reducer will freeze once the LPG starts flowing.

Your location of the reducer is just fine (close to warm exhaust manifold, membranes 90 degr in relation to drive direction of the car. ) you might have to take some extra effort in order to purge the collant system from any trapped air bubbles because the reducer is not the highest point in the cooling system and it will trap air.

But i think you need to rotate the reducer to make sure that the sludge drainplug is pointing down.(to 6 o'clock position) and the outlet of gas is the highest point.
This will also allow you to route both coolant hoses high up along the firewall. Zipty them in place .

There are books on the market that describe how to install a reducer LPG system. (i have one)
 
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Never really updated but allot has happend.
First i got the bodykit installed, adjusted the exhaust for the fitment of the rear. put in the LPG switch and installed all but a few stuff for the installation.

Also found out that my "well maintained" car is not so well maintained as i hoped since the Tbelt snaped when i went for a weekend away with my GF.. great thankfully it not the heron head but a 530 so a new Tbelt and tensioner is on the car


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Last weekend i picked up replacement panels and glass sunroof for my 744. All the replacement came of a UK car so i wonder how i will do the wiring for the doors being the elec controls on the other side of the car for the mirrors and the mirrors should be different too?

The car being from the UK the parvan is different too, so i picked up another one from a Volvo 744 from 92 the last nose. It looks completely the same apart from the strip on the windshield.. but when i tried to mount it i found out it also uses different clips so its useless :-( I did install a new hood without rust spots and the wirebruch motive so car is coming along step by step

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R?da said:
Later style cowl also rusts easier
Click to expand...

It's not about rust its about the whole nose of the car was cleaned with a steelwol pad by the prev owner. so all the shine was out of the clear coat. But all is replaced now except the "cowl".
 
K&N filter because race car.. oh wait no because of LPG instalation guy told me to mod the airbox to avoid ram air (apparently thats bad in this instalation)
Going with the filter was easyer and will give me street credits too :cool::-D

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Running on LPG now?

Runnong an open airfilter on a LPG powerede car is bad juju..
You should have kept the stock airfilter box.
 
I still got the box can go back any time, why is that a bad thing to run a K&N filter.
At some of the LPG forums i'v have been lurking they seem to do that more to get rid of the ram air.

And not still not running on it still have few open item

* install the filler behind the plate
* install one way valve in the return line
* drill hole in spare tire trunk to route the lines and wiring the other way around and create a excape place if the tank leaks
* finish up the wiring

Must have been the slowest LPG build but its my first so learning allot
 
the last pieces in the puzzle are here. to bad i'm super busy this weekend so dont know when i will put this in

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installed the LPG filler and movable plate to hide it.

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Also checked out the wiring loom diffrence between the current and donor doors. The new ones have power mirrors and windows where as the old beaten ones dont.

Gonna need to find out how much work it is to repin the looms because they dont match.. I do believe White Rice had the looms i need.....

Also its good to know that these doors came of a RHD car where my car is LHD so the looms for adjusting the mirrors are on the wrong side too.

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While i was looking at the wiring i found that the fresh air valve was broken, i dont like fresh (read cold) air on my feet all the time so close it, if i want fresh air i'll open the roof

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Wiring of the LPG is done, i ran out of nice connectors so it does not look as nice as i'd hoped but it will do.
I like that i installed the vacuum with OEM volvo hoses to the reducer so it looks OEM :-)

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