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740 Fuel Door Hinge

mjcerati

mjcerati

New member
Joined
May 27, 2011
Location
San Francisco, CA
My OE hinge died, so I bought an aftermarket replacement that IPD carries. I got it on the fuel door and go fit the hinge into the body holes, but the tolerances between the 4 plastic dowels and the body holes are laughably bad. The tension on the hinge spring is far far greater than what the dowels can resist. All I need to do is tap my finger gently on the fuel door and it will come tumbling off the car... Anyways, anyone have a better solution so my fuel cap is not so naked to potential vandalism?
 
You need to drive the 4 plastic pins in to lock the hinge to the body. Remove the door before driving in the pins.

fullsize_16740.jpg
 
:lol: you'll never be able to drive the rivets in. They'll break first. Just get some appropriate sized bolts and nuts. This is what I do on every hinge that I replace.
 
One of the most irrational and cheap things Volvo engineers did on those cars. A car that cost even more than a 240 got a plastic fuel filler door. I would follow the advice above and use some small bolts if you can. Would also suggest you always get out and open the fuel door yourself. Otherwise within the next week or so after installing. Some gas jockey will break it again for you.
 
Ok, I will try both suggestions. I put the hinge on the fuel door, first because it seemed more of a pain to attach the fuel door to the hinge, after attaching the hinge to the body, first.
 
My suggestion would be snap off the new rivets & reverse them - they usually go in to the rivet body that way, at least in my experience. Hinge on body first is a must though.
 
mjcerati said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-CiDbM3bC4OGEI95RLlL90VVL__-6goI/view?usp=drivesdk
Click to expand...

hiperfauto said:
You need to drive the 4 plastic pins in to lock the hinge to the body.
Click to expand...

Correct. The video shows quite clearly the pins haven't been driven in properly, if at all.

hingepin1.jpg


hingepin2.jpg



They need to be in *all* the way, so that the *main* body of the pin is expanding the "leaves" of the clip, not just the pin's "retaining" tip. It will take some careful force.


Here's IPD's own installation video:

Skip to 2:32....

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OH4mj0H9B3Q?t=152" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Hmmm ok. I was pushing really hard, but I guess I need a punch, and to break off some part of it? Wow this was not what I was expecting at all.
 
I bought the aftermarket one and they all broke, maybe the Volvo hinge is better quality. Break off pins enlarge hole with a drill bit. Get bolts, nuts and washers. The rubber liner will pull away from body so you can install nuts/washers from the inner body panel. This isn't hard.
 
Hi, I thought I'd follow up. I broke the dowels off, put them in the retaining tips. I decided to leave the hinge all connected to the fuel door. I punched them in with a flat head and all was good, until the plastic dowel from the hinge that fits into the fuel door, broke from the force of the last tip.
Anyways, thanks for responses to the thread, it helped. It made me feel a bit silly, assuming the retaining tips were already large enough to retain the whole thing to the car. The second time will be a ten minute job.
 
Last edited:
If there is a next time, spray a little Windex on the hinge retaining pan features before installing it. That makes them go in real easy. A couple taps with a flat end punch seats them instantly.
 
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