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Drain plug glued to the oil pan - how should I approach?

There isn't really a good way for me to get it out of the garage. Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.

I could try the impact gun, but I'd probably need to find a 6-point socket for it.

Ah, ok..is the driveway near garage fairly level ? I don't have much problem pushing a 140/240 by myself if the brakes aren't seized, and the tires aren't flat(recruit a couple helpers ?).

Curious if the frame rails are solid ?

;-)
 
There isn't really a good way for me to get it out of the garage. Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.

I could try the impact gun, but I'd probably need to find a 6-point socket for it.

don't count on that engine to pull thaat car out, from the looks of it, those brakes are probably frozen solid.

you need to step back and set a goal, if you can't figure a way to drag this car out, I doubt you up to get it running.


get a trucker chain and pull that heap out of the garage with a pick-em-up truck, then crush it
 
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To everyone recommending 6 point sockets instead of 12, they're stronger, but they don't drive any better, what you want is the face-drive variety with the corners hollowed out and a subtle radius on the edges of the internal flats. These give the *bolt* head or nut much more strength for the socket to ride on.
 
You refer to Flank Drive sockets which is the standard way all new good quality sockets are made. My only 2 cents worth on the oil pan is a 6 point impact socket, preferably mounted onto an impact driver and warm it up first with a torch. Not a driveway fix I'm afraid. At this point I would just replace the pan. You know there was a reason someone glued it in this way, right? Even if you did get it out you are faced with stripped or cracked threads.



-L
 
At this point I would just replace the pan. You know there was a reason someone glued it in this way, right? Even if you did get it out you are faced with stripped or cracked threads.



-L

At this point, it's been long enough that I just ordered a new drain plug and copper washer with all the rest of my parts. Probably going to install it alongside the old one.

If it leaks massively, yeah, I'll be pulling the engine. Just need to figure out the logistics on that one. I'm hoping I'll at least be able to get the car running and moving, so I can get it on a trailer and take it somewhere with more space and/or is on flat ground.
 
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At this point, it's been long enough that I just ordered a new drain plug and copper washer with all the rest of my parts. Probably going to install it alongside the old one.

If it leaks massively, yeah, I'll be pulling the engine. Just need to figure out the logistics on that one. I'm hoping I'll at least be able to get the car running and moving, so I can get it on a trailer and take it somewhere with more space and/or is on flat ground.

How are you going to install it "alongside" the old one? The pan is thin sheet metal, 20ga maybe, so if you plan on drilling a new hole next to the old one and running a plug into that, dont waste your time. Its not going to work, and will most likely fall out.

Take a propane torch and heat it, grab it with a pipe wrench, give it hell. Better yet, remove the pan, since youve had it open at the front, its probably a good idea anyway.

Removing the pan in the car with just a jack, a couple jack stands, and a couple 2x4 (36-38" long). This isnt rocket surgery. Unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine a tiny bit, strap the engine from up top to the 2x4 laid across the fenders. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the X member, jack up the front end and remove the tires, place the jackstands under the framerails, if youre worried about crumpling something, use another length of 2x4 to spread the load, with the car secured maybe 4-5" up, lower the crossmember as far as you need, pull the pan. Install new pan and be done with it.
 
How are you going to install it "alongside" the old one? The pan is thin sheet metal, 20ga maybe, so if you plan on drilling a new hole next to the old one and running a plug into that, dont waste your time. Its not going to work, and will most likely fall out.

Take a propane torch and heat it, grab it with a pipe wrench, give it hell. Better yet, remove the pan, since youve had it open at the front, its probably a good idea anyway.

Removing the pan in the car with just a jack, a couple jack stands, and a couple 2x4 (36-38" long). This isnt rocket surgery. Unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine a tiny bit, strap the engine from up top to the 2x4 laid across the fenders. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the X member, jack up the front end and remove the tires, place the jackstands under the framerails, if youre worried about crumpling something, use another length of 2x4 to spread the load, with the car secured maybe 4-5" up, lower the crossmember as far as you need, pull the pan. Install new pan and be done with it.

Probably quoted too much there, but I'll see if I can find myself some ratchet straps and try it out, I guess. I have a basically infinite supply of scrap 2x4s so I immediately perked up when you mentioned it.
 
Probably quoted too much there, but I'll see if I can find myself some ratchet straps and try it out, I guess. I have a basically infinite supply of scrap 2x4s so I immediately perked up when you mentioned it.

all you need to be able to do is drop the crossmember 2-3" in order to fish the oil pan past the pump.
 
do you know why it doesn't run?

The engine sat for a while and was just stuck. At least that's what the owner told me.

EDIT:
DSCF4023.JPG


The intake valve on #1 had just totally disintegrated, and the bits froze the rings up.

It turns over fine now, if you're wondering.

DSC00971.JPG
 
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The engine sat for a while and was just stuck. At least that's what the owner told me.

EDIT:
DSCF4023.JPG


The intake valve on #1 had just totally disintegrated, and the bits froze the rings up.

It turns over fine now, if you're wondering.

You are wasting your time. Toss the engine on the scrap pile and get another one. Possibly, the whole car from the looks of it. The rings are likely rusted to the ring grooves in the piston. IOW, if you put it back together there is a high probability you won't have any compression.
 
You are wasting your time. Toss the engine on the scrap pile and get another one. Possibly, the whole car from the looks of it. The rings are likely rusted to the ring grooves in the piston. IOW, if you put it back together there is a high probability you won't have any compression.

Add turbo to increase compression.
 
I agree. Yank it. If you’re keen on keeping it, that looks usable. Measurements would confirm, and tell you a better story. Yank it. With the head off, you’re 30 minutes from out anyway. 1.5hours tops in gravel with a little engine crane. You can do everything from topside if you don’t want to jack it up.
 
So far I?ve blown the ringlands off of two sets of pistons, crazy thing, it takes 18-20 psi and revving it to 7k over a while.

I suppose it's unrelated to the original purpose of the thread, but was that with the stock cast pistons?

Regardless of whether I rebuilt or trash this B20, I'm keen on doing a carb'd turbo in the long run. I'm aware that's not as efficient as EFI, but I enjoy suffering.
 
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