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240 Hard Start, loping idle

The one ground wire from the valve cover to the fire wall had some build up, wouldn't call it corrosion, but it definitely needed a cleaning. Ran out of light and motivation for the evening. I tried to start it and it fired right up, still missing and blubbering though. Made some improvement. Couldn't get it voltage between pin 5 and 13. Resistance was around 9800 ohm? And the engine hadn't run, so ambient temp was 60?
 
RE: 9800 ohm - If based upon measurement made at LH's harness disconnected from LH's box, then reading should be around 2300 ohms @ 68F(20C). At 32F (0C)-- about 6000 ohms. Your reading, if true, is informing LH to enrich extra fuel.

I highly suggest cleaning all grounds, at battery post, from battery to engine, and grounds on intake. One could do positive side also, with ground disconnected.

RE: voltage between pin 5 and 13 - This is done with ignition switch turned on, and LH harness plugged into box.
 
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Footnote - 9800 ohm reading at LH's harness should also be true when measured at CTS's terminals, if wiring and grounds are fit for duty. Either CTS is defective, wiring is defective, or ground not good if both of these readings are not similar.

If oxidation exist, either at terminal or internally in wire itself, your ohm reading will go higher, and cause a "flooded" starting condition.


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Assuming the block is well grounded to the frame, when I directly spec out the CTS, the reading shouldn't change, if at all, when I ground at on the block, chassis or negative battery terminal. The spade connector on the CTS was looking awfully oxidized. Not looking forward to replacing any grounds if they're bad
 
Assuming the block is well grounded to the frame, when I directly spec out the CTS, the reading shouldn't change, if at all, when I ground at on the block, chassis or negative battery terminal. The spade connector on the CTS was looking awfully oxidized. Not looking forward to replacing any grounds if they're bad

If those readings are correct, that is a huge problem. I question whether they are correct. That would make the car run so rich you might not even be able to start it. Even if you could start it, the car would flood all the time. It would also make the ECU throw a code for a rich condition. You said in the post above, no codes.


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You are supposed to be measuring resistance between pin 13 and ground. Not between pin 5 and 13. That likely explains the reading you got.
 
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If those readings are correct, that is a huge problem. I question whether they are correct. That would make the car run so rich you might not even be able to start it. Even if you could start it, the car would flood all the time. It would also make the ECU throw a code for a rich condition. You said in the post above, no codes.


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You are supposed to be measuring resistance between pin 13 and ground. Not between pin 5 and 13. That likely explains the reading you got.

That would definitely explain it. So, I'll retest tonight, pin 13 and ground on the body. I'll check at the ECU harness as well as the sensor itself just to check and ensure the wiring between the two is viable. The car is running pig rich though when it starts up, so it's definitely getting fuel.
 
I suggest you do a spray pattern test on the injectors. Snapple bottles, etc work great as flasks to have the injectors spray in. Pull the rail and have all four injectors in bottles set on the intake. Have your wife crank the starter and watch what happens at the end of each injector. Having the same type of bottle on each injector will give you equal volumes to compare how much fuel you are getting from each injector. What is of bigger concern is the spray pattern. I have dealt with a few 240s that had spray patterns so bad the engine ran terrible when cold and even when warmed up, had a rough idle. If the fuel isn't atomized properly, it blows spark out at low RPM. Higher RPM results in higher charge velocity which helps atomize the fuel. IOW, the car can run terrible at low RPM and smooth out and run decent at higher RPM.
 
Remove CTS's plug, then do an ohm test at LH harness....if infinity (Zero), leave CTS unplugged, reinsert LH harness, and start engine.

If the control unit receives a signal higher than 302F (150C) or lower than -40F (-40C), it will interpret the signal as a fault...the control unit will assume a substitute value corresponding to 32F (0C) on starting and 68F (20C) when the engine has started."

Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Not even on the Brickboard. Try unplugging your ECT sensor and see what happens. If the above statement was true the car would start and run fine with it disconnected. Those values would be "close enough" for the rest of the sensors to take over and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. What really happens doesn't support that statement at all.
 
Don't believe everything you read on the internet.

IIRC, on Rex-I/Regina, when CTS is unplugged, it defaults to a warmed engine value. In cooler weather, its a pill to start a Regina EFI.

I have no idea if LH 1.0, LH 2.0, LH 2.4 act the same when CTS is unplugged. So if person making that statement was sincere, it might apply to one specific LH version.

I was attempting to find out if this statement was true.
 
They all have good intentions on the Brickboard. The road to failure is paved with good intentions. Even with the later fuel injection systems that Volvo used that statement is not true. I know of someone that spent over $10,000 trying to have a long list of running issues corrected by Jim Fisher Volvo in Portland only to sell their V70XC to one of my friends for $2500. It turned out to be a $42 CTS. Their car at that time was worth $10,000 running correctly. My friend sold it a couple weeks later after spending one day figuring out what was really going on with it for $7500. Nice profit.
 
Either my meter is inaccurate or something is way wrong. Still 9800ohm, can't seem to get any voltage from pin 13. I double checked I had my meter on the right setting by checking the battery. What's the resistance for the injectors? 15ohm?
 
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I tested the injectors, they were all at 15.9ohm +/-0.1 ohm. So it seems that it might be a bad ECT. I'll order one as soon as I've got some cash to burn.
 
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