• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1983 242 Turbo LH 2.2 Swap Question

FTY

New member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Pics of my car for attention
Looking for someone to point me in the right direction, trying to troubleshoot. My 242 gets a hick up while at idle or driving. The AFR gauge reads steady 14ish at idle then all of a sudden it gets a burst of fuel and reads 9-10 rich for a second and catches itself. This happens at idle, even while driving intermittently.

I don't see an idle control valve
I don't see a coolant temperature sensor

Could it be a bad MAF or O2 sensor?
image2_zpsvgidof5f.jpg


image1_zpsam9ezqki.jpg
 
Have you put a meter on the o2 sensor and watched the voltage at warmed up idle? Your description of the o2 operation just doesn't sound correct. The signal should bounce around the 14.7 at fully warmed up idle. It should be constantly hunting or oscillating as the controller adds fuel then removes fuel to keep the mixture corrected. A sensor giving just a steady signal at warmed up idle is bad. There is also a test lead wire for LH2.2 dwell. I think it was a red wire on the inside left fender.

Where is the o2 sensor located in your setup and is it heated or single wire?
 
Thanks for the feedback fellas

Have you put a meter on the o2 sensor and watched the voltage at warmed up idle? Your description of the o2 operation just doesn't sound correct. The signal should bounce around the 14.7 at fully warmed up idle. It should be constantly hunting or oscillating as the controller adds fuel then removes fuel to keep the mixture corrected. A sensor giving just a steady signal at warmed up idle is bad. There is also a test lead wire for LH2.2 dwell. I think it was a red wire on the inside left fender.

Where is the o2 sensor located in your setup and is it heated or single wire?
The car looks great!:volvo:
Thanks! It looks good on the road but its running crappy right now.
The o2 is working just as you describe. 14ish was my way of explaining the bounce.
The current o2 is a three wire unit and is mounted just after the turbo at the downpipe.
The test lead wire would apply to my LH2.2 swap? Previous owner did the swap. What does dwell mean?
Location of the o2
IMG_4384_zpsnfyb0tv3.jpg


Man, I need GTAs. What adapters did you buy?
I had custom adapters made. Took a lot of fab and cutting to make them work.

Did you swap to EZK ignition also?

You don't see a temp sensor??? Wut the fluck does that mean? Hey your ECU needs to see one...
Sbabbs- No EZK ignition. using the breakerless. I have to look closer to find the coolant temp sensor. That might be my problem....the coolant gauge on the dash is not working either.
The picture Billymayshere posted should help me find it. Would the Kjet motor have the two sensors in the same location as described in the photo?

Thanks for the links to the manuals
this is a huge help.
 
I thought LH2.2 had that test lead there.

Ok not to be confused with checking ignition dwell. Bosch setup Kjet with lambda and LH2.2 with a red test lead on the inner left fender. You can use a dwell meter to read the duty cycle of the controller and o2 sensor. It is actually a dwell meter for ignition testing but is being used instead for this lambda testing. Unless I am mistaken LH2.2 had this as well as the lambda kjet.
 
On the cars I've worked on it was a red wire with a plastic housing around a single male flat connector. I will check the Bentley manual and post back.

Edit. I am mistaken. The test lead seems to be only kjet lambda. But you can always check an o2 sensor with a voltmeter as well. Sorry bout that.
 
Last edited:
On the cars I've worked on it was a red wire with a plastic housing around a single male flat connector. I will check the Bentley manual and post back.

Edit. I am mistaken. The test lead seems to be only kjet lambda. But you can always check an o2 sensor with a voltmeter as well. Sorry bout that.

i thnk it does have one, red with white stripe?
 
Still trying to figure this out.
temp_knock_sensors.jpg

The above picture is the K-Jet Gauge and ECU sensor.
Because of the swap the pictured sensors are not connected.
Does the breakerless ignition system still need it?

The LH swap harness is connected to a LH Coolant temperature sensor closer to the firewall.
The car is running worse now. My wideband is showing dangerously rich. bouncing between 9 and 10 at idle.
Can't figure this out.

Could the problem be ignition related?
my distributor has a vacuum line and a electrical cable...this is breakerless right?
 
IMG_6804_zpsizgcdy1y.jpg

Above is the LH Temp sensor connected and a signal prong connector located closer to the firewall but still under the intake manifold. I attached a loose yellow wire to that signal prong connector assuming it was my dash cluster temp sensor. Still no reading at the dash.

IMG_6793_zps5zweiyf8.jpg

K Jet dash temp sensor not connected

IMG_6806_zpsnk4bboso.jpg

K Jet ignition and Fuel Temp sensor not connected.
you can see the LH sensor to the far right connected...
 
With the amm plugged in, I get a rhythmic surging idle. With it plugged out, Steady idle.
Pig rich both plugged or unplugged.
 
the dash gauge uses the yellow wire and goes to the same sensor and location as the kjet gauge. The single pole sensor under the first to second runner area on the intake manifold. the electronic injection usually uses a location a bit further back with it's sensor. The breakerless bosch ignition does not use any temp sensing. The Constant Idle System of the kjet setup uses a temp sensor at the back of the block on the driver side. The single pole sensor in that same area is the cold engine cutout switch and nothing should be connected to that now.
 
That explains a lot thank you dl242gt

why does the car run better with the amm unplugged? is it bad?
 
Back
Top