The Aspirator
It's a girl!
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2003
- Location
- Vinemount, Ontario CANADA
Awesome-est thing in the whole wide world. Here's my parts list from Digikey.com:
IRLZ44 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND) ..... $1.89
100r resistor
10k resistor
1N4002 (1N4002DICT-ND) ..... $0.52
That's all you need for the boost controller, but I also got many other goodies for all sorts of extra MS features:
Table Switching:
2n2222a (497-2598-5-NDR)..... 1k ..... 10K ..... 2k2 (which means 2.2K, took me forever to figure that out)
Water Injection:
1k ..... 100r ..... 10k ..... 1n4002 (1N4002DICT-ND)..... 2n2222 (497-2598-5-NDR)..... IRL244 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND)
Launch Control:
2k2
PWM Idle:
TIP122 (497-2543-5-ND)
______
Also need to buy a fast acting solenoid valve for the boost controller. Ovlov760 told me about this one that he's using:
GM solenoid part #1997152
They can be had for $11 at GMpartsdirect.com. This is the OEM solenoid for the Gm Typhoon. The connector for the solenoid is the same one found on most GM windshield washer reservoir and coolant reservoir tanks. It should look like this:
______
So I bought that solenoid from GMparts direct, and also went to a junkyard and EASILY found that connector on some oldsmobile from the early '90's. That connector is $13 online and $26 at Napa..... Cost me $2 at the junkyard. To wire it, Megasquirt connects to the blue (or black) wire and grounds it out, and you have to provide a switched +12v to the red wire. I spliced into the power wire for my windshield wiper motor cause it was really close to my solenoid. You also need to wire in the "1N4002" diode between the two wires at the plug, connecting them. Boris740 suggested this to filter out voltage spikes and save some parts from 'sploding. Cathode (bar) goes to the positive:
I then mounted the solenoid to the strut tower and plumbed it up. Route the "in" hose (from the turbo or intake) to the silver barb and route the "out" hose to the barb beside the filter. I found that having the thing bolted to the body of the car caused it to make a heck of a ticking noise when it was turned on. Like a kid with a baseball card stuck in the spokes of his bike. I could hear it loudly when turning the ignition on, and a little bit at idle, not while driving though. So we decided to just zip tie it to the intake plumbing, no more ticking!
______
Now to the megasquirt side of things.
A note on the FET that you use, DIFFERENT ONES CAN HAVE DIFFERENT PINOUTS! So if you buy the exact one that I bought ("IRLZ44 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND)") then you can copy my wiring.
It's pretty easy actually. The FET has 3 prongs, GDS. Gate, Drain, Source. The particular one that I'm using, if you're looking at it from the front is GDS. Since you are using MS to ground out the solenoid, the Source is ground, the Drain goes to the solenoid, and the Gate is the signal from MS telling the FET when to ground the solenoid. A FET is like a little tiny relay.
Here is the proper wiring diagram that I've drawn up for you guys:
Gate (pin1) is the yellow wire, it goes to X4. I connected it to the gray wire using a 10K resistor, then after that I installed a 100ohm resistor inline, it's under the heatshrink.
Drain (pin2) is the white wire, it goes to X12 which goes to pin 27 on the DB37 connector. From there I have a wire going out the DB37 connector to the blue (or black) wire on the solenoid.
Source (pin3) is the grey wire, it goes to the ground pad of the missing D1 diode. I've confirmed that this is a common board ground.
Then mount the FET to the case somewhere and use some heatsink compound to keep it cool.
______
THAT'S IT! Even with that suuuuper long post it's really not that hard, I just wanted to be clear for you guys and detail all the steps. Now for the software side of things. Go into code config and set the output for X4 to Boost Control.
Now go into General - boost control and set it to this:
I haven't played with the boost kPa targets map yet but I hear it's a bit iffy, just use the duty cycle target table and it'll work great. My wastegate is set to 6psi. When I first got it up and running I set the whole table to 40% DC and got 10psi STEADY till redline. I played around with it a bit and came up with this so far, it's just a simple map not even utilizing all the capabilities. It's basically just RPM based boost, I get 10psi till 4000rpm then at 4100rpm it jumps to 15psi. It's a great kick in the back to have it give you another 5psi instantly, and the controller does it's job like a dream.
Enjoy your new infinitely tune-able boost control!! Cause I sure am
John
Edit, here is the current hardware manual for boost control:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#boost
IRLZ44 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND) ..... $1.89
100r resistor
10k resistor
1N4002 (1N4002DICT-ND) ..... $0.52
That's all you need for the boost controller, but I also got many other goodies for all sorts of extra MS features:
Table Switching:
2n2222a (497-2598-5-NDR)..... 1k ..... 10K ..... 2k2 (which means 2.2K, took me forever to figure that out)
Water Injection:
1k ..... 100r ..... 10k ..... 1n4002 (1N4002DICT-ND)..... 2n2222 (497-2598-5-NDR)..... IRL244 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND)
Launch Control:
2k2
PWM Idle:
TIP122 (497-2543-5-ND)
______
Also need to buy a fast acting solenoid valve for the boost controller. Ovlov760 told me about this one that he's using:
GM solenoid part #1997152
They can be had for $11 at GMpartsdirect.com. This is the OEM solenoid for the Gm Typhoon. The connector for the solenoid is the same one found on most GM windshield washer reservoir and coolant reservoir tanks. It should look like this:
______
So I bought that solenoid from GMparts direct, and also went to a junkyard and EASILY found that connector on some oldsmobile from the early '90's. That connector is $13 online and $26 at Napa..... Cost me $2 at the junkyard. To wire it, Megasquirt connects to the blue (or black) wire and grounds it out, and you have to provide a switched +12v to the red wire. I spliced into the power wire for my windshield wiper motor cause it was really close to my solenoid. You also need to wire in the "1N4002" diode between the two wires at the plug, connecting them. Boris740 suggested this to filter out voltage spikes and save some parts from 'sploding. Cathode (bar) goes to the positive:
I then mounted the solenoid to the strut tower and plumbed it up. Route the "in" hose (from the turbo or intake) to the silver barb and route the "out" hose to the barb beside the filter. I found that having the thing bolted to the body of the car caused it to make a heck of a ticking noise when it was turned on. Like a kid with a baseball card stuck in the spokes of his bike. I could hear it loudly when turning the ignition on, and a little bit at idle, not while driving though. So we decided to just zip tie it to the intake plumbing, no more ticking!
______
Now to the megasquirt side of things.
A note on the FET that you use, DIFFERENT ONES CAN HAVE DIFFERENT PINOUTS! So if you buy the exact one that I bought ("IRLZ44 (IRLZ44NPBF-ND)") then you can copy my wiring.
It's pretty easy actually. The FET has 3 prongs, GDS. Gate, Drain, Source. The particular one that I'm using, if you're looking at it from the front is GDS. Since you are using MS to ground out the solenoid, the Source is ground, the Drain goes to the solenoid, and the Gate is the signal from MS telling the FET when to ground the solenoid. A FET is like a little tiny relay.
Here is the proper wiring diagram that I've drawn up for you guys:
Gate (pin1) is the yellow wire, it goes to X4. I connected it to the gray wire using a 10K resistor, then after that I installed a 100ohm resistor inline, it's under the heatshrink.
Drain (pin2) is the white wire, it goes to X12 which goes to pin 27 on the DB37 connector. From there I have a wire going out the DB37 connector to the blue (or black) wire on the solenoid.
Source (pin3) is the grey wire, it goes to the ground pad of the missing D1 diode. I've confirmed that this is a common board ground.
Then mount the FET to the case somewhere and use some heatsink compound to keep it cool.
THAT'S IT! Even with that suuuuper long post it's really not that hard, I just wanted to be clear for you guys and detail all the steps. Now for the software side of things. Go into code config and set the output for X4 to Boost Control.
Now go into General - boost control and set it to this:
I haven't played with the boost kPa targets map yet but I hear it's a bit iffy, just use the duty cycle target table and it'll work great. My wastegate is set to 6psi. When I first got it up and running I set the whole table to 40% DC and got 10psi STEADY till redline. I played around with it a bit and came up with this so far, it's just a simple map not even utilizing all the capabilities. It's basically just RPM based boost, I get 10psi till 4000rpm then at 4100rpm it jumps to 15psi. It's a great kick in the back to have it give you another 5psi instantly, and the controller does it's job like a dream.
Enjoy your new infinitely tune-able boost control!! Cause I sure am
John
Edit, here is the current hardware manual for boost control:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#boost
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